Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
12-12-2013, 03:24 PM
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Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
Things NO ONE told me about installing a TURBO
These are things NO ONE ever told me about getting/installing a turbo. Now that I have boosted my 93 civic eg6, D15B7 these things are SO obvious, but when I didn’t know about it, I was all over the internet looking for answers. I found a lot of help here in the forums. I figure I gather up all the little/obvious things NO ONE ever told me, so I can help someone else as well. Human nature is to be helpful. So here it goes in no particular order.
YOU NEED TO CLOCK YOUR TURBO HOUSING FOR PROPER INSTALL
- Yeah I didn’t know that! It so obvious to me know and to a lot of people reading this, but there are a lot of people who do not know this and I was one of them! I was cooking my turbo in oil like french fries @ Burger King!. You just have to loosen up the housing so you can have your oil feed line at 12o clock and your oil return line at 6 o clock. Mine was at 9 and 3 o clock, (thanks to this guy know help me install my turbo and ‘knew all about turbos’). The oil is suppose to just “pass by and say hello” to the turbo not sit there for it to cook like fries in an oil pan. I did not know that. :clap:
YOU NEED TO HAVE 2 STEP COLDER SPARK PLUGS (NGK BKR7E)
- The reason is pretty much to prevent denotation aka blow up you engine aka say bye bye to your car. What is 2 step colder spark plugs? Is just spark plugs that are on a different heat range so your car doesn’t run so hot! It will run cooler like a glass with ice water (aaah). To step down on plugs just look at the NGK number. Just add the number UP so you can have a colder plug (excuse me?). For instance my civic oem spark plug is a ZFR5F-11.
So I just add the 5+1 = 6 (tomorrow we’ll do colors) so My one step colder plug is ZFR6F-11. Easy right. My 2 step colder plug will be 5+2=7 which will be?? …very good !!…ZFR7F-11. But guess what? There’s no such thing as ZFR7F-11 !! NICE!! :lurk:
Now what? Simple just get this NGK spark plug… BKR7E . This is the official 2 step colder spark plug for a civic turbo!!! Thanks for telling me !!. I did not know that!. And another thing…NGK –11 just means is pre gap to .44 so do not get BKR7E-11 , just get regular BKR7E. And don’t worry about the gap? OMG the gap! How much .28 .30 .32 .44 .99. The smaller the better, but don’t stress it .32 -.35 is ok. Just get this NGK spark BKR7E.
HOW TO CONNECT YOUR OIL FEED LINE (USE 2 LINES INSTEAD OF ONE)
- Your oil feed line in general goes from the little hole where the oil sensor pressure is, to your turbo. You just use a T so you can T off from the motor and split it one for the OEM oil sensor and one for your turbo oil feed line. But guess what?? DO NOT T OFF RIGHT FROM THE MOTOR. WHY? Because the T will break off (because is too heavy) and you will be stuck with a broken T fitting inside your motor! Wanna fix that! I don’t think so. Soooo, all you gotta do is get TWO oil feed lines.(lets say to 2 feet each) One goes from the motor, THEN yout T it off there, you but your Oil pressure sensor and then you continue with the other oil feed line to the turbo. This way the weight of the T fitting is OFF the motor and just dangling between the two oil feed lines. If it breaks you just have to replace the oil feed line which is like $10 on ebay. And It will be most likely on the top part of the engine bay for easy access (not behind the motor where you can’t even see it) :clap:
MAKE SURE YOU SUPER DUPER TIGHT ALL YOUR CLAMPS
- When installing your intercooler and all those pipes that go from the turbo all the way back up to your throttle body, make sure you SUPER DUPER tighten up your clamps. WHY? Because you want to make sure you do not have any Boost leaks! What is that? That just means you do not want air escaping through the rubber couplers that you use to connect the pipes together. That’s all. Just tighten them up, after you finish. Eat a sandwich, then go back and tighten some more, then talk on the cell phone, then tighten up some more. The reason why, if you later have any issues with your car stalling, or not boosting right or not running right or whatever, you will now in your conscious that it’s definitely not a boost leak from the piping because you remember tighten then up , eating a sandwich and tighten them up some more, and talking on your cell, and tighten them some more! That will alleviate any further issues when trouble shooting your car, You don’t want to have to take off the bumper AGAIN to retighten a coupler (loser).
WHICH 3 GAUGES DO I REALLY NEED(BOOST, OIL PRESSURE, AIR TO FUEL)
I spend a whole day looking for this. Well I summarized it for you. To look cool with your 3 gauge pilar, you need the following
-Boost gauge that way you know, when you are boosting, how much you are boosting and when you are vacuuming aka driving normal like a N/A car. ($20 dollar one is fine)
-Oil pressure sensor, so you have peace of mind that you still have oil in your engine while driving. Because with a turbo car, you can have little leaking now from the oil pan, from the turbo, from the oil feed line, from your glove compartment from your stereo, from anywhere. So this will let you know you if you still have oil in your motor and your safe and sound. By the way there are two types of oil pressure sensors, mechanical and electrical! Which one? Easy! Electrical. It comes with a sensor you just connect to your oil feed line and run the little wire to your gauge. The mechanical one is a tube that literally runs the oil to your gauge so it can measure the oil pressure! You don’t want hot oil running back and forth 2 feet from your face! ($20-30 dollar one is fine)
-Air fuel ratio gauge (no one told me about this one, thanks!) This one is like the important one. It basically lest you know if you are running lean (very bad) or rich (very good). Remember You always want to be rich not poor. Rich, Rich. Lean = denotation aka bye bye car aka your car is hot aka it’s gonna through a fit aka is gonna die. Rich is what you wanna be in the turbo world and in life in general. Rich = running cool (aaahh), running smooth, running good, aka your car feels like frosted flakes! (Grrrreat)
With this gauge you can always make sure when you are racing or running your car hard it does not go on the lean side 16+ on the gauge, you always want to stay 15 and less, 14, 13, 12 11, get it? Less = Rich (excuse me!) With this gauge you can always make sure the tune that you got, is okay. With this gauge you can tune your car (duh), or better yet your tuner can tune your car. It basically connects to your exhaust (it has an o2 sensor). So you gonna need to drill a hole on your exhaust to plug it in, or get a test pipe form eBay that cost $20 and you can connect it to that (it already comes with a hole for the o2 sensor)
Get the AEM WIDEBAND Air/fuel gauge is like $125.
WHICH MOTOR OIL FOR TURBO (10W-30)
- I used to use 5W-30 on my NA D15B7, Now I have to use 10W-30. Why? Because is thicker and thicker is better. That way the oil does not heat up so fast. And remember your car wants to be cool like a glass of ice water (aaah!).That’s the short answer. The long answer you can google it.
FUEL INJECTORS (MIN. 400cc)
- I though I was able to use the OEM fuel injectors (240cc), NOT! Thanks for telling me! The reason why is this. You can use your OEM (240cc) injectors BUT they will be always running HARD. Like spraying at it’s most capacity. So if you do not that constantly they can break and damage. It’s like a skinny buddy of yours helps you move out. He can help you take out the refrigerator alright. But he is going to work hard, sweat and stress out. But if you get a tough big buddy of yours, he’ll do it, but it will be so much easier for him and wont get stress. So you want your fuel injectors to run nice and cool and not stressed out all the time. Bigger guy for a bigger job, get it?
Any brand 400cc minimum.
ECU/TUNED (GET BOTH)
- You need a ‘chipped’ ECU and get the car ‘tuned’. Chipped ECU is so you can be able to run programs like Crome or Hondata or whatever to ‘tune’ (program your car) to run right. Now you also need to tune it. This issue is a biggie. You have to tune it or your car might die aka run lean aka it will get hot and die. Soooo, you have to get it tuned.
Street tuned? Dyno Tuned? Looney Tunes? Which one? Is up to you, but Street tune is like $200-300 and a guy drives with you around the streets with a laptop. A dyno tune is $400-$600 and they do it on the machine. BUT I did something that maybe not a lot of people will do. I bought a chipped ECU from Ebay and the guy tunes it for you for FREE!. I was skeptical at first, but I went for it, and you know what? It worked and my car runs normal. Look for DIYTUNING702 on Ebay. He asked me all my specs of my car and some how ‘tuned’ my ECU for my car. I guess is like a save/conservative tune. But is still a tune. My car runs normal, and it boosts normal. Everything works. Maybe is not tuned for ULTIMATE POWER for racing at every traffic light, but you know what. Is reliable, it drives normal, it works with my boosted car and I need the car to go to work. I just wanted it tuned to run right and not blow up. So it worked for me. I recommend him! DIYTUNING702 :lurk:
IF YOUR CAR IDLES LOW OR STALLS RIGHT OUT AFTER TURBO INSTALL
-First thing is first, let your ECU ‘learn’ how to idle with your colder plugs. Let it idle for like 10 minutes. Turn it OFF, turn it back on , press the gas and let it idle at 1k for like 2-3 minutes, then let off slowly until it idles by itself. Let it idle for 5 minutes. Then drive it around. It the Idle is too low, just adjusted it with the idle screw counterclockwise (if it’s too low), clockwise (it it’s to high)
SUMMARY
- Hope I helped out someone one in here.
These are things NO ONE ever told me about getting/installing a turbo. Now that I have boosted my 93 civic eg6, D15B7 these things are SO obvious, but when I didn’t know about it, I was all over the internet looking for answers. I found a lot of help here in the forums. I figure I gather up all the little/obvious things NO ONE ever told me, so I can help someone else as well. Human nature is to be helpful. So here it goes in no particular order.
YOU NEED TO CLOCK YOUR TURBO HOUSING FOR PROPER INSTALL
- Yeah I didn’t know that! It so obvious to me know and to a lot of people reading this, but there are a lot of people who do not know this and I was one of them! I was cooking my turbo in oil like french fries @ Burger King!. You just have to loosen up the housing so you can have your oil feed line at 12o clock and your oil return line at 6 o clock. Mine was at 9 and 3 o clock, (thanks to this guy know help me install my turbo and ‘knew all about turbos’). The oil is suppose to just “pass by and say hello” to the turbo not sit there for it to cook like fries in an oil pan. I did not know that. :clap:
YOU NEED TO HAVE 2 STEP COLDER SPARK PLUGS (NGK BKR7E)
- The reason is pretty much to prevent denotation aka blow up you engine aka say bye bye to your car. What is 2 step colder spark plugs? Is just spark plugs that are on a different heat range so your car doesn’t run so hot! It will run cooler like a glass with ice water (aaah). To step down on plugs just look at the NGK number. Just add the number UP so you can have a colder plug (excuse me?). For instance my civic oem spark plug is a ZFR5F-11.
So I just add the 5+1 = 6 (tomorrow we’ll do colors) so My one step colder plug is ZFR6F-11. Easy right. My 2 step colder plug will be 5+2=7 which will be?? …very good !!…ZFR7F-11. But guess what? There’s no such thing as ZFR7F-11 !! NICE!! :lurk:
Now what? Simple just get this NGK spark plug… BKR7E . This is the official 2 step colder spark plug for a civic turbo!!! Thanks for telling me !!. I did not know that!. And another thing…NGK –11 just means is pre gap to .44 so do not get BKR7E-11 , just get regular BKR7E. And don’t worry about the gap? OMG the gap! How much .28 .30 .32 .44 .99. The smaller the better, but don’t stress it .32 -.35 is ok. Just get this NGK spark BKR7E.
HOW TO CONNECT YOUR OIL FEED LINE (USE 2 LINES INSTEAD OF ONE)
- Your oil feed line in general goes from the little hole where the oil sensor pressure is, to your turbo. You just use a T so you can T off from the motor and split it one for the OEM oil sensor and one for your turbo oil feed line. But guess what?? DO NOT T OFF RIGHT FROM THE MOTOR. WHY? Because the T will break off (because is too heavy) and you will be stuck with a broken T fitting inside your motor! Wanna fix that! I don’t think so. Soooo, all you gotta do is get TWO oil feed lines.(lets say to 2 feet each) One goes from the motor, THEN yout T it off there, you but your Oil pressure sensor and then you continue with the other oil feed line to the turbo. This way the weight of the T fitting is OFF the motor and just dangling between the two oil feed lines. If it breaks you just have to replace the oil feed line which is like $10 on ebay. And It will be most likely on the top part of the engine bay for easy access (not behind the motor where you can’t even see it) :clap:
MAKE SURE YOU SUPER DUPER TIGHT ALL YOUR CLAMPS
- When installing your intercooler and all those pipes that go from the turbo all the way back up to your throttle body, make sure you SUPER DUPER tighten up your clamps. WHY? Because you want to make sure you do not have any Boost leaks! What is that? That just means you do not want air escaping through the rubber couplers that you use to connect the pipes together. That’s all. Just tighten them up, after you finish. Eat a sandwich, then go back and tighten some more, then talk on the cell phone, then tighten up some more. The reason why, if you later have any issues with your car stalling, or not boosting right or not running right or whatever, you will now in your conscious that it’s definitely not a boost leak from the piping because you remember tighten then up , eating a sandwich and tighten them up some more, and talking on your cell, and tighten them some more! That will alleviate any further issues when trouble shooting your car, You don’t want to have to take off the bumper AGAIN to retighten a coupler (loser).
WHICH 3 GAUGES DO I REALLY NEED(BOOST, OIL PRESSURE, AIR TO FUEL)
I spend a whole day looking for this. Well I summarized it for you. To look cool with your 3 gauge pilar, you need the following
-Boost gauge that way you know, when you are boosting, how much you are boosting and when you are vacuuming aka driving normal like a N/A car. ($20 dollar one is fine)
-Oil pressure sensor, so you have peace of mind that you still have oil in your engine while driving. Because with a turbo car, you can have little leaking now from the oil pan, from the turbo, from the oil feed line, from your glove compartment from your stereo, from anywhere. So this will let you know you if you still have oil in your motor and your safe and sound. By the way there are two types of oil pressure sensors, mechanical and electrical! Which one? Easy! Electrical. It comes with a sensor you just connect to your oil feed line and run the little wire to your gauge. The mechanical one is a tube that literally runs the oil to your gauge so it can measure the oil pressure! You don’t want hot oil running back and forth 2 feet from your face! ($20-30 dollar one is fine)
-Air fuel ratio gauge (no one told me about this one, thanks!) This one is like the important one. It basically lest you know if you are running lean (very bad) or rich (very good). Remember You always want to be rich not poor. Rich, Rich. Lean = denotation aka bye bye car aka your car is hot aka it’s gonna through a fit aka is gonna die. Rich is what you wanna be in the turbo world and in life in general. Rich = running cool (aaahh), running smooth, running good, aka your car feels like frosted flakes! (Grrrreat)
With this gauge you can always make sure when you are racing or running your car hard it does not go on the lean side 16+ on the gauge, you always want to stay 15 and less, 14, 13, 12 11, get it? Less = Rich (excuse me!) With this gauge you can always make sure the tune that you got, is okay. With this gauge you can tune your car (duh), or better yet your tuner can tune your car. It basically connects to your exhaust (it has an o2 sensor). So you gonna need to drill a hole on your exhaust to plug it in, or get a test pipe form eBay that cost $20 and you can connect it to that (it already comes with a hole for the o2 sensor)
Get the AEM WIDEBAND Air/fuel gauge is like $125.
WHICH MOTOR OIL FOR TURBO (10W-30)
- I used to use 5W-30 on my NA D15B7, Now I have to use 10W-30. Why? Because is thicker and thicker is better. That way the oil does not heat up so fast. And remember your car wants to be cool like a glass of ice water (aaah!).That’s the short answer. The long answer you can google it.
FUEL INJECTORS (MIN. 400cc)
- I though I was able to use the OEM fuel injectors (240cc), NOT! Thanks for telling me! The reason why is this. You can use your OEM (240cc) injectors BUT they will be always running HARD. Like spraying at it’s most capacity. So if you do not that constantly they can break and damage. It’s like a skinny buddy of yours helps you move out. He can help you take out the refrigerator alright. But he is going to work hard, sweat and stress out. But if you get a tough big buddy of yours, he’ll do it, but it will be so much easier for him and wont get stress. So you want your fuel injectors to run nice and cool and not stressed out all the time. Bigger guy for a bigger job, get it?
Any brand 400cc minimum.
ECU/TUNED (GET BOTH)
- You need a ‘chipped’ ECU and get the car ‘tuned’. Chipped ECU is so you can be able to run programs like Crome or Hondata or whatever to ‘tune’ (program your car) to run right. Now you also need to tune it. This issue is a biggie. You have to tune it or your car might die aka run lean aka it will get hot and die. Soooo, you have to get it tuned.
Street tuned? Dyno Tuned? Looney Tunes? Which one? Is up to you, but Street tune is like $200-300 and a guy drives with you around the streets with a laptop. A dyno tune is $400-$600 and they do it on the machine. BUT I did something that maybe not a lot of people will do. I bought a chipped ECU from Ebay and the guy tunes it for you for FREE!. I was skeptical at first, but I went for it, and you know what? It worked and my car runs normal. Look for DIYTUNING702 on Ebay. He asked me all my specs of my car and some how ‘tuned’ my ECU for my car. I guess is like a save/conservative tune. But is still a tune. My car runs normal, and it boosts normal. Everything works. Maybe is not tuned for ULTIMATE POWER for racing at every traffic light, but you know what. Is reliable, it drives normal, it works with my boosted car and I need the car to go to work. I just wanted it tuned to run right and not blow up. So it worked for me. I recommend him! DIYTUNING702 :lurk:
IF YOUR CAR IDLES LOW OR STALLS RIGHT OUT AFTER TURBO INSTALL
-First thing is first, let your ECU ‘learn’ how to idle with your colder plugs. Let it idle for like 10 minutes. Turn it OFF, turn it back on , press the gas and let it idle at 1k for like 2-3 minutes, then let off slowly until it idles by itself. Let it idle for 5 minutes. Then drive it around. It the Idle is too low, just adjusted it with the idle screw counterclockwise (if it’s too low), clockwise (it it’s to high)
SUMMARY
- Hope I helped out someone one in here.
Last edited by 93whiteg6; 12-12-2013 at 03:40 PM.
12-12-2013, 03:58 PM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
I feel your pain man.
Heres a good thread from another site that should be a faq here.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aforced-induction-forum-faq%2A%2A%2A-1024174/
Heres a good thread from another site that should be a faq here.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aforced-induction-forum-faq%2A%2A%2A-1024174/
12-12-2013, 05:08 PM
#3
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
ECU doesnt "learn" idle
The first parts were kinda funny. Most of the time its people telling you that you need these things and its ignored. Then finally you have an epiphany and you break down and buy the **** for a successful boost party.
The first parts were kinda funny. Most of the time its people telling you that you need these things and its ignored. Then finally you have an epiphany and you break down and buy the **** for a successful boost party.
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12-12-2013, 10:20 PM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
You don't need a dipstick either. Cause when you boost if oil comes out of your dipstick tube, you still have oil in the engine 
12-13-2013, 03:11 AM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
Not trying to be a dick. Its nice that you got it all in one spot there but every single thing you mentioned I learned by researching before i ever worked on a turbo car or is just common sense. All that info has been repeated over and over again. And what the guy gave you on ebay was a basemap. Dont suggest ppl go out and purchase a basemap. If he didn't look at datalogs from pulls on your car he didn't tune ****.
Just noticed it was his first post....... wouldn't be surprised if he was the guy selling "tunes" on ebay.
Just noticed it was his first post....... wouldn't be surprised if he was the guy selling "tunes" on ebay.
12-13-2013, 04:22 AM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
hey I don't care what everyone else says, it s good beginners guide to installing/turboing your own turbo kit.
most important things are the RIGHT quality parts installed correctly, and a experienced tuner. I would in no way recommend a ebay tune. you have no idea his qualifications or experience level.
oh and BTW the Zimmerman pic is funny as ****
most important things are the RIGHT quality parts installed correctly, and a experienced tuner. I would in no way recommend a ebay tune. you have no idea his qualifications or experience level.
oh and BTW the Zimmerman pic is funny as ****
12-13-2013, 08:21 AM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
Its not even close to a guide. Its bits of info. And telling ppl to buy basemaps off of ebay to save money on a tune is just wrong.
12-13-2013, 09:45 AM
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12-13-2013, 10:12 AM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
a basemap is just a basic start up map. it is not meant to be driven around on and definitely not driven hard on. i put a basemap on mine and tweaked it to get it to idle so i could make sure there were no check engine lights or anything like that then put it on the trailer and hauled it to the tuner.
12-13-2013, 12:20 PM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
I have a couple of you questions for you experts (and no I'm not been a smart ***).
Since you guys are experts, you should know this of the top of your head(s)
Whats the con's Whats the difference between a basemap and street/dyno tune?
How come you CANNOT use a basemap and leave it like that (Im not racing at every traffic light)?
The other question is, about connecting a catch can. I check the forums but I don't understand one thing. I know you suppose to connect one hose from the catch can to the breather hose/port. I got that part. But the other one, where do I connect it? I know a hose goes formthe black box to the PCV valve then to the throttle body. So do I connect the catch can to the throttle body port without the PCV valve. or do I connect it to the Black box without the PCV valve? Which one?
Since you guys are experts, you should know this of the top of your head(s)
Whats the con's Whats the difference between a basemap and street/dyno tune?
How come you CANNOT use a basemap and leave it like that (Im not racing at every traffic light)?
The other question is, about connecting a catch can. I check the forums but I don't understand one thing. I know you suppose to connect one hose from the catch can to the breather hose/port. I got that part. But the other one, where do I connect it? I know a hose goes formthe black box to the PCV valve then to the throttle body. So do I connect the catch can to the throttle body port without the PCV valve. or do I connect it to the Black box without the PCV valve? Which one?
12-13-2013, 12:40 PM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
No 2 engines are the same. That's all you need to understand. How can someone across the country make a program for your engine without even driving it? The smallest things affect a tune.
12-13-2013, 12:52 PM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
That's for your generic answer that every one says. But what is specific is wrong with it? If not dyno properly and you hit hard, does it go lean and therefore you blow up your engine? Or is is because the car won't make the most power it can actually make? What in specific? There's categories, driveblilty, performance, emissions, timing, fueling what in particular? is funnoy all the experts can't answer in specific, only ''No, you cant run a basemap" But dont explain why
12-13-2013, 01:16 PM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
That's for your generic answer that every one says. But what is specific is wrong with it? If not dyno properly and you hit hard, does it go lean and therefore you blow up your engine? Or is is because the car won't make the most power it can actually make? What in specific? There's categories, driveblilty, performance, emissions, timing, fueling what in particular? is funnoy all the experts can't answer in specific, only ''No, you cant run a basemap" But dont explain why
Tumbleweeds passing by LOL
What happen to the haters oops sorry I mean the experts? SMH
12-13-2013, 01:37 PM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
Proper tuning puts the ignition and fuel maps where your engine wants its. There aren't any magical values that will be perfect for every engine. This is why proper tuning takes a few hours. You make a pull. You adjust accordingly. Someone is making that basemap with the mindset of if I do this conservativly then it should be ok. Timing values even on the conservative side can cause detonation if its not where your motor needs to be. You can ruin a motor with rich conditions just as easily as lean conditions. Will a basemap work sometimes? Sure. Is it the right way to have it done right. Not at all. Even on simple all motor setups ive seen graph after graph where ppl have picked up 20+ hp by actually tuning the car versus just running some basemap. Motors have been ruined thinking they were fine on basemaps. I know tuners that don't even like to give them out for this reason.
Like I said I would guess your the guy you mentioned on ebay selling these basemaps. Don't think silence makes you right. Some ppl prolly don't see it worth the effort because they read your first post and deemed it a complete waste of time.
Like I said I would guess your the guy you mentioned on ebay selling these basemaps. Don't think silence makes you right. Some ppl prolly don't see it worth the effort because they read your first post and deemed it a complete waste of time.
12-13-2013, 01:47 PM
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
Proper tuning puts the ignition and fuel maps where your engine wants its. There aren't any magical values that will be perfect for every engine. This is why proper tuning takes a few hours. You make a pull. You adjust accordingly. Someone is making that basemap with the mindset of if I do this conservativly then it should be ok. Timing values even on the conservative side can cause detonation if its not where your motor needs to be. You can ruin a motor with rich conditions just as easily as lean conditions. Will a basemap work sometimes? Sure. Is it the right way to have it done right. Not at all. Even on simple all motor setups ive seen graph after graph where ppl have picked up 20+ hp by actually tuning the car versus just running some basemap. Motors have been ruined thinking they were fine on basemaps. I know tuners that don't even like to give them out for this reason.
Like I said I would guess your the guy you mentioned on ebay selling these basemaps. Don't think silence makes you right. Some ppl prolly don't see it worth the effort because they read your first post and deemed it a complete waste of time.
Like I said I would guess your the guy you mentioned on ebay selling these basemaps. Don't think silence makes you right. Some ppl prolly don't see it worth the effort because they read your first post and deemed it a complete waste of time.
Actually I'm not 'that guy from eBay'. But nice try inspector gadget. I am who I am, a noob with inferior F/I skill set compare to so many in here. I'm just trying to relay info and learn from guys like you. Thank you for your input.
12-13-2013, 02:03 PM
#24
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12-13-2013, 02:13 PM
#25
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Re: Things NO ONE told me about installing Turbos
Go out and read, not to sound like an *** but if that's your only car and didn't research everything before you went out and did it you could've been out of a certain for a long time. PLUS almost everyone has the same questions people have been boosting and building your engines long enough that there's not really any unique questions when speaking in general boosting or building topics. Hell I read and researched for two years before I got everything together and the install only took me like six hours with NO surprises. Not everyone is gonna spoon feed you buddy, even if you think no one has asked your question before think again someone prolly has and it's all out there for you to find. Not saying you can't or shouldn't ask but if you do try and keep any smart comments or attitude to yourself because you won't get any help from the nice people on here like that.
Last edited by bayFERIOroan; 12-13-2013 at 02:33 PM.