ClubSiRacer

I wrote this for the readers at my site but I figured i'd post it here anyhow... Most people here probably already understand what they need but that isnt always the case.

Link to the writeup with pictures:

http://forums.clubsi.com/showf...&vc=1

I will be adding more pictures soon showing locations of things.

psycho_civic

nice writeup

Tweakmeister

that's pretty cool!

GRTechnologies

everything helps

Sonny

Nice work, Jason.

Sonny

symba

very good info.

ClubSiRacer

Thanks guys... I'm going to add a little to it later as I just finished swapping out my old -3AN lines for -4AN lines and a new tee block that I made myself. Funny thing is, I show higher oil pressures than I did before which makes me happy as I was reading only 75psi peak, now it shows roughly 90psi when above 3000rpm which is a little more normal. (It should be that high, i have a brand new oil pump.) I suspect the supercharger line being routed the way it was caused the gauge to read lower pressure. Problem solved now.

BodyKits NW

So in other words 99 percent of the oil line kits sold use the brass fitting which will thread in, but still not the exact thread. Mine seems to be working just fine, but I just don't like that fact.

hpfsi

Awesome tech article Jason, thanks

Flamenco-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So in other words 99 percent of the oil line kits sold use the brass fitting which will thread in, but still not the exact thread. Mine seems to be working just fine, but I just don't like that fact. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Andy, if you are talking about the BSP fitting, yes, the NPT will thread in, but it will de-thread the block. I did a write up a while ago on the difference between the NPT and BSPT.

Nice write up jason, and btw, BSPT have 28 thread pitch.

stan

ClubSiRacer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Andy, if you are talking about the BSP fitting, yes, the NPT will thread in, but it will de-thread the block. I did a write up a while ago on the difference between the NPT and BSPT.

Nice write up jason, and btw, BSPT have 28 thread pitch.

stan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, your right... I was thinking of 1/4" and 3/8" which are a larger thread.. I'll change that later.

As for the brass tee's, their is nothing wrong with it to a point. I mean I used one on my setup until today even. But... Brass tee's only have three ports meaning one in and two out, thus if you have a gauge, the pressure switch and a turbo to send oil to, you'd have to chain several tee's together. Add in an oil temp probe and you've got another tee to add. Add a VTEC head on an LS-VTEC and you'll have to daisy chain 3 or 4 tees together which makes for a real mess.

Funny thing is, i figured everyone would raz me for posting the link... Guess I was wrong.


Modified by ClubSiRacer at 1:44 PM 10/14/2003

integra_gsr98

Good **** Jason. Now send me the stuff for free.

I built a ghetto remote oil feed setup out of some high pressure hose some brass nipples, and a single brass t. It works well doesn't look too shitty, but I really hate brass. I broke 3 t's off in the back of the block before I put the remote setup together.

That and having your oil pressure sending unit from autometer attached to the t on the back of the block about guarentees that it wont last very long. Myself and some other friends have had horrible issues with autometer oil pressure sending units dying due to vibration.

(Talk about a good way to **** your pants halfway down the drag strip... OH **** NO OIL PRESSURE!)

to a good article.

93LSivic

Wow, how original using my idea for the Mcmaster Carr manifold for oil distribution.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=496648
J/K. It works great btw. I should post up some pics.

Mista Bone

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(Talk about a good way to **** your pants halfway down the drag strip... OH **** NO OIL PRESSURE!)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try just getting 500 miles on a freshen bottom end, making a 120 mph pull in 4th gear, only to look over and see the needle below zero!!!!!! Clutch in, motor died.

Let clutch out at 80 mph, engine fires back to life, I continued driving.

Mount the oil pres. sending unit on the firewall.

ClubSiRacer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Try just getting 500 miles on a freshen bottom end, making a 120 mph pull in 4th gear, only to look over and see the needle below zero!!!!!! Clutch in, motor died.

Let clutch out at 80 mph, engine fires back to life, I continued driving.

Mount the oil pres. sending unit on the firewall.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

God yea, that would scare me good... Then again, i've looked over to see my fuel pressure drop to about 20psi before while driving. Turns out one of the lines at the pump was about to pop off and spewing fuel on the back end of the car. Lucky for me I coasted up the hill I was on and shut it off before anything was damaged or caught on fire. (I use a single external fuel pump.)

The McMaster "manifold" works i'm sure, but the size of the sending unit for most electric oil pressure gauges is kinda big. You'd have to leave an unused space on each side.