vy3tnamezz

i was wondering is it possible to get around 300whp with this turbo kit?? ive looked everywhere online, seems like everyone are getting the same results as me.

I have a gsr motor. went .20 over with 9:1 arias pistions. eagle rods, skunk2 valve train. golden eagle block guard. 550cc rc injectors. 255walbro fuel pump. arp head studs. HOndata s300. Fmic. im pushing 9psi right now. Tuned on the dyno jett in colorado

i was hoping to get around 270whp-300whp. any suggestions on what i should do next???







Modified by vy3tnamezz at 11:45 PM 8/29/2008


Modified by vy3tnamezz at 11:48 PM 8/29/2008

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Sell the kit, upgrade to a real kit i.e. full-race, peak boost, neuken etc.

one bad dx

Swap out the headlights, they really dont add the claimed 30whp..........Hhaha, j/k bro.

I think 240whp is very respectable but like mtber stated, that kit is only good for soo many hp. If it's not the turbo restricting your goals then it will be something else, like the manifold or the intercooler etc. You want some serious gains, put together a bigger T-kit and sell that one off.

Good luck in your hunt for that 300whp mark

chimmike

I'm sellin a mani/dp/dumptube setup that can easily support over 300whp

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sell the kit, upgrade to a real kit i.e. full-race, peak boost, neuken etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're about at the limits of that setup. It takes a bit of work to get it to get an actual 300whp, including an upgraded downpipe, feed & oil lines, upgraded turbocharger (GT-R series still in the T2 flanged GT3071R).

Or simply upgrade the entire system.

vy3tnamezz

yea thats what i figured. thanks a lot. prob upgrade the kit next summer lol

boosted k20

crank da boost up!

BoostR41

dont listen to these guys. on a stock bore motor at 17psi I did 309whp 242wtq 4 years ago tuned on hondata. that is all on pump gas. DSM guys run up to 30psi on that compressor wheel. they only mods I had to the kit was a 2.5" dp from the elbow to the cat and at that point it was the stock B pipe to a HKS dragger muffler and hondata with 880cc injectors.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostR41 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont listen to these guys. on a stock bore motor at 17psi I did 309whp 242wtq 4 years ago tuned on hondata. that is all on pump gas. DSM guys run up to 30psi on that compressor wheel. they only mods I had to the kit was a 2.5" dp from the elbow to the cat and at that point it was the stock B pipe to a HKS dragger muffler and hondata with 880cc injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1) The Greddy 18g is not at all the same from the 18G that dsm's use. The actuator and flapper door used are smaller than the full Mitsubishi turbine housing that is used by the DSM people. In order for it to be used correctly on the honda to even raise the pressure over 15psi, the flapper door must be replaced, as well as a porting of the wastegate opening itself.

2) You cannot in anyway compare a DSM to a Honda B18C block. Volumetric efficiency, backpressure, CFM flow of the head, engine demand flow, all make the engines apples and grapes apart. You cannot use the exact same principles from one over the other. They are different.

3) The Greddy 18G kit is a Mitsu/Garrett hybrid component. Only the cartridge and compressor wheel are Mitsubishi Heavy Industries. The Turbine housing and exhaust wheel are garrett components. The kit uses a very restrictive downpipe adapter and 2" downpipe.

3)Simply turning the boost up is not going to solve his problem due to these restrictions, as well as the issues with the wastegate as described in point 1. When those that did increase boost pressure with that actuator arm up, the flapper door failed to remain open, and spiking issues occured (Since it can't even open over 75 degrees). I made over 315whp on the Greddy kit 6 years ago, and found that these issues were prevalent.


From my experience there were 2 choices...

A) Lose the greddy kit altogether if you want over 350-450whp eventually (Which is probably the H-T mainstream concensus)

B) Substitute the right components on your current Greddy kit to eliminate exhaust energy restrictions and increase power. Unlike DSMs, Hondas do not like the large increases in backpressure when using under utilized turbo components.

Hope this helps a bit.

vy3tnamezz

so pretty much upgrade downpipe?&gt;?? how hard you think it would be to weld a flange to the manifold for external wastegate?

90 JDM EF8

iTrader: (1)

people hate on the 18g but i have proven the turbo to be just fine, i made 295 hp and 238 Tq on a totally stock b16 with hondata s300 and the greddy manifold,18g, and stock dp and now i switched it to external wg and ramhorn manifold, 3 in downpipe and i made 350 hp and 252 tq...that is as much power as some people make on a way bigger turbo so all it takes is a good tuner and a little bit of work and it can make decent power...good luck

vy3tnamezz

when you switched to the ramhorn, external wastegate, and 3inch dp are you still running that 18g???

BoostR41

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) The Greddy 18g is not at all the same from the 18G that dsm's use. The actuator and flapper door used are smaller than the full Mitsubishi turbine housing that is used by the DSM people. In order for it to be used correctly on the honda to even raise the pressure over 15psi, the flapper door must be replaced, as well as a porting of the wastegate opening itself.

2) You cannot in anyway compare a DSM to a Honda B18C block. Volumetric efficiency, backpressure, CFM flow of the head, engine demand flow, all make the engines apples and grapes apart. You cannot use the exact same principles from one over the other. They are different.

3) The Greddy 18G kit is a Mitsu/Garrett hybrid component. Only the cartridge and compressor wheel are Mitsubishi Heavy Industries. The Turbine housing and exhaust wheel are garrett components. The kit uses a very restrictive downpipe adapter and 2" downpipe.

3)Simply turning the boost up is not going to solve his problem due to these restrictions, as well as the issues with the wastegate as described in point 1. When those that did increase boost pressure with that actuator arm up, the flapper door failed to remain open, and spiking issues occured (Since it can't even open over 75 degrees). I made over 315whp on the Greddy kit 6 years ago, and found that these issues were prevalent.


From my experience there were 2 choices...

A) Lose the greddy kit altogether if you want over 350-450whp eventually (Which is probably the H-T mainstream concensus)

B) Substitute the right components on your current Greddy kit to eliminate exhaust energy restrictions and increase power. Unlike DSMs, Hondas do not like the large increases in backpressure when using under utilized turbo components.

Hope this helps a bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am proof positive that the greddy 18g WILL flow enough at 17psi for 300whp on the stock original flapper door.

nowtype

Crank up the boost, run a bigger downpipe, and get a 2.5bar map sensor from Xenocron.com. You don't need the bigger DP but I'd strongly suggest it. The only thing TheShodan said correctly was it is worth porting your WG hole out. It will help regulate boost control quite a bit. Spending thousands of more dollars to get 300whp is stupid. You should be able to reach your goals for another $300 in parts and some dyno time.

chimmike

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostR41 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I am proof positive that the greddy 18g WILL flow enough at 17psi for 300whp on the stock original flapper door.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you must have some insane backpressure in the turbo manifold.

BoostR41

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chimmike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you must have some insane backpressure in the turbo manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the insane thing is I had more issues with my external gated 550whp set up creeping than I did with the 18G

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostR41 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I am proof positive that the greddy 18g WILL flow enough at 17psi for 300whp on the stock original flapper door.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Didn't say that it wouldn't. Just not for long. It will dip back down. You can dyno all you want, but it will spike up to the 17psi, and drop back down to about 14psi or so due to the flapper door issue. On the DSM models for the 18G, they are usually adjusted w/ a larger flapper door (90 degrees) and 32-34mm wastegate hole.

90 JDM EF8

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vy3tnamezz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you switched to the ramhorn, external wastegate, and 3inch dp are you still running that 18g???</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i am still running the 18g and i am going to build my head beginning of next year and re-dyno and push 9500 rpm instead of 8500 and hopefully get 400-450 hp mark...i am also going to push for 10's in the quarter mile with that turbo, i already hit 11.7 just testing the car out granny shifting early at 8000 rpm and not launching hard yet

Boost spike problems taken care of






Modified by 90 JDM EF8 at 5:30 PM 8/31/2008

BoostR41

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Didn't say that it wouldn't. Just not for long. It will dip back down. You can dyno all you want, but it will spike up to the 17psi, and drop back down to about 14psi or so due to the flapper door issue. On the DSM models for the 18G, they are usually adjusted w/ a larger flapper door (90 degrees) and 32-34mm wastegate hole.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im dead serious boost held pretty steady near 16-17psi on that turbo. I dunno if something in the exhaust or the head flowed well enough to allow that to be stable at that boost level but it did.

vy3tnamezz

damn sick set up. what kind of flange do that 18g have?? i wanted to do the same thing you did just dont know where to get that manifold.

BoostR41

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vy3tnamezz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn sick set up. what kind of flange do that 18g have?? i wanted to do the same thing you did just dont know where to get that manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think lovefab or spoolin made a manfold for the greddy 18g before but I could be wrong

vy3tnamezz

do you know what the flange is?? i heard it was a t25.

90 JDM EF8

iTrader: (1)

its a t25 flange but i bought a t3 to a t25 adapter on ebay and the flange bellows down from the bigger t3 to the smaller t25...nobody makes a t25 flange manifold unless you pay for it to be custom made



heres the ATPTURBO.com 3" gt28 v-band flange on my 18g

BoostR41

I found my old 17psi greddy dyno sheet.

as you can see torque was falling off but HP was a pretty flat curve

vy3tnamezz

damn how much that whole set up cost you??