... suspension setup for high hp (turbo)...???
#1
... suspension setup for high hp (turbo)...???
... first, this will be for a daily driven street car that will see some track time, not an all out race car... with that being said, what would be the best setup that would be a good balance between ride comfort on the street and traction on the track?... one other thing to consider, i will be on a limited budget due to my engine rebuild...
... i searched the archives and found a couple setups that would fit my budget... here's what i am considering:
jimfab traction bars
ground control coilovers with eibach springs (what spring rate?)
kyb agx shocks
energy suspensions bushings kit
camber kit (which one, suggestions?)
lower control arms (necessary? which one, suggestions?)
... lemme know what you think... suggestions/comments/thoughts/criticisms/recommendations are all welcome and appreciated... thanks...
... i searched the archives and found a couple setups that would fit my budget... here's what i am considering:
jimfab traction bars
ground control coilovers with eibach springs (what spring rate?)
kyb agx shocks
energy suspensions bushings kit
camber kit (which one, suggestions?)
lower control arms (necessary? which one, suggestions?)
... lemme know what you think... suggestions/comments/thoughts/criticisms/recommendations are all welcome and appreciated... thanks...
#3
Re: ... suspension setup for high hp (turbo)...??? (1.8T_EG)
You'll need the traction bars for sure. The shocks are going to be dependant upon what spring rate you choose to run. If you are looking for maximum traction, then go with 500 lb/in front, 700-800 lb/in rear. I consider that streetable. The spring rate will effect the shock greatly, mainly to due with longevity of the shock. High spring rates wear out the shock very quickly. This is due to the great loads it places upon the shock in compression from the dramatic spring rates. Essentially the spring rate multiplies the weight of the car, making the total force acting on the shock that much greater and contributing to piston/seal issues (blowing the shocks out).
For a good spring/shock combo I would recommend a custom set of ground control coilovers with 500 lb/in front and 700-800 lb/in rears. Bilstein shocks have been tested to take high spring rates very well, both the longevity and durability of the shock is worth the price with super high spring rates on them.
Camber kits are not needed per say. You want as close to zero camber as possible. With handling you want negative camber on the suspension, to essentially force the suspension to be "zero" when you travel into the corner. It more or less sets up the car for a corner. With drag racing applications camber is not your friend. When you run postive or negative camber you are not using the effective total width of your surface area of the tire. So when you launch the car you arent putting down as much rubber on the ground as possible.
Lower control arms are not needed as well. I think that you might mean upper control arms that effectively work to induce/reduce camber similarly to a camber kit.
Polyurethane bushings are a nice upgrade. They will take some slop out of the suspension, but really wont make that much of a difference for straight line acceleration unless your exsisting bushings are shot. I replaced my bushings this winter with a full set of energy suspension bushings, its not fun.
Filling your motor mounts will help with wheel hop. If you dont have the money to go with aftermarket motor mounts, then stick with the OEM. Use 3M "window weld" and fill your motor mounts. The window weld is a polymer that is exactly the same as the polyurethane that the aftermarket motor mount insert kits are made of. It takes about 2 days to dry, so if you plan on doing it make sure you can wait. You can pick it up from an auto supply place.
For a good spring/shock combo I would recommend a custom set of ground control coilovers with 500 lb/in front and 700-800 lb/in rears. Bilstein shocks have been tested to take high spring rates very well, both the longevity and durability of the shock is worth the price with super high spring rates on them.
Camber kits are not needed per say. You want as close to zero camber as possible. With handling you want negative camber on the suspension, to essentially force the suspension to be "zero" when you travel into the corner. It more or less sets up the car for a corner. With drag racing applications camber is not your friend. When you run postive or negative camber you are not using the effective total width of your surface area of the tire. So when you launch the car you arent putting down as much rubber on the ground as possible.
Lower control arms are not needed as well. I think that you might mean upper control arms that effectively work to induce/reduce camber similarly to a camber kit.
Polyurethane bushings are a nice upgrade. They will take some slop out of the suspension, but really wont make that much of a difference for straight line acceleration unless your exsisting bushings are shot. I replaced my bushings this winter with a full set of energy suspension bushings, its not fun.
Filling your motor mounts will help with wheel hop. If you dont have the money to go with aftermarket motor mounts, then stick with the OEM. Use 3M "window weld" and fill your motor mounts. The window weld is a polymer that is exactly the same as the polyurethane that the aftermarket motor mount insert kits are made of. It takes about 2 days to dry, so if you plan on doing it make sure you can wait. You can pick it up from an auto supply place.
#4
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Re: ... suspension setup for high hp (boosted hybrid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Filling your motor mounts will help with wheel hop. If you dont have the money to go with aftermarket motor mounts, then stick with the OEM. Use 3M "window weld" and fill your motor mounts. The window weld is a polymer that is exactly the same as the polyurethane that the aftermarket motor mount insert kits are made of. It takes about 2 days to dry, so if you plan on doing it make sure you can wait. You can pick it up from an auto supply place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
more info about this?
also i have the tein flex.anyone recommend what setting for track?rite now its all 8 on all 4.thanks
Filling your motor mounts will help with wheel hop. If you dont have the money to go with aftermarket motor mounts, then stick with the OEM. Use 3M "window weld" and fill your motor mounts. The window weld is a polymer that is exactly the same as the polyurethane that the aftermarket motor mount insert kits are made of. It takes about 2 days to dry, so if you plan on doing it make sure you can wait. You can pick it up from an auto supply place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
more info about this?
also i have the tein flex.anyone recommend what setting for track?rite now its all 8 on all 4.thanks
#5
Re: ... suspension setup for high hp (boosted hybrid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For a good spring/shock combo I would recommend a custom set of ground control coilovers with 500 lb/in front and 700-800 lb/in rears. Bilstein shocks have been tested to take high spring rates very well, both the longevity and durability of the shock is worth the price with super high spring rates on them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
... with the custom ground control coilovers... will kyb shocks work (either the gr or agx line)???... if not, what bilstein line do you recommend?... lemme know... thanks...
... with the custom ground control coilovers... will kyb shocks work (either the gr or agx line)???... if not, what bilstein line do you recommend?... lemme know... thanks...
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6ghatch
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07-09-2002 07:22 PM