b18cgsrturbo

Sup guys and gals.

I've look all over and found multiple answers on best place to run the turbo cooling lines.

I have a b18c gsr with garrett gt35r and I'm still mind boggled on where to run the lines. Any positive info will help. THanks and happy boosting

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

This took 2 seconds on Google. don't use the H-T search engine.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...t-way-3024177/
Good luck.

BADBIDDY

Like "TheShodan" said you should do some more searching first. However I ran into the similar question for my turbo setup as well.

On the front of your block is a allen head plug - remove that - you can buy a plug with a AN male fitting on it. This will be your feed line - goes to one side of turbo. Now for the return - typically ran into the radiator. Go-Autoworks sells a radiator with a AN bung welded to the side of it. That can be your return..... otherwise you can run into the drain plug of the radiator but thats no fun.

Chance EG

I just bought one of those radiators from Go-Auto for my car. Very, very nice piece, I got the triple core and opted for the coolant return bung to be put on the front of the rad instead of the side so I have room for my AC condenser.

BADBIDDY

Yep^ This is the same one I got but with the bung on the side.... No A/C for me

liam821

B&R makes a great kit GT Turbo Coolant Kit which a bunch of us here use. You can also piece together the parts yourself - the block coolant fitting you can buy online for from some place like full-race https://www.full-race.com/store/fabr...olant-adapter/

The other option is to use the coolant line that goes to the IACV but its a lot messier and complicated.

khrys771

A factory turbo car I owned had a line to the block and the other to the heater core. maybe run it like that.

The sweed

When hooking up the cooling lines to the front block plug and bottom of the radiator.. Does anyone knows what direction the water flows through the turbo?

Stock water pump pulls water from the block and pushes it to the head.. Block should be low pressure side of the turbo and bottom of the rad should be a higher pressure and feed the turbo.. That means that the radiator is bypassed and would explain why some people are having cooling issues with turbos.. You want the flow to be the other way around so the radiator takes care of the heat the turbo creates. Maybe that is how it works.. I am not sure though.

liam821

You have it backward. The block port on the front of a b-series is the feed, it goes into the turbo into the bottom port (if there is a top and bottom port), and out the top port to the radiator return (top or bottom). The radiator isn't pressured unless something is wrong or you're boiling over.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

technically speaking, there is no feed or return, like there is for oil . As long as the water lines are coming from 2 different sources, you're ok. The bottom of the radiator is the best source. Please see the FAQs, for the water lines .

The sweed

If you have flow.. You have a low pressure zone and a high pressure zone.. That is just the way it is.. And there is flow through the radiator.. I have a small flow indicator I am tempted to hook up and verify.

liam821

Fair enough. I more meant that if you opened the radiator cap and coolant gushes out type of pressure.

LightningTeg

porofek

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys. I am about to do my turbo install and ran into this question as well. Right now I have the inlet and outlet water ports for the IAVC plugged: the port on the intake manifold and the corresponding port on the water pipe (B18C5). Can I use these two ports as the feed and return sources for the turbo water cooling setup? I want to avoid welding a bung onto the bottom of the radiator. Thanks in advance!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You could, just like the rest of the thread suggests.

porofek

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the confirmation. So I went through my turbo kit (I haven't installed it yet) and I just noticed that it came with a water line kit using AN fittings. With most of the pieces in place from this kit, it sounds a lot easier and cleaner to use the block fitting and an adapter on the bottom of the radiator. Now I'm considering using a run on swivel fitting to provide two 6AN flares to route an additional line to the wastegate water port then back into the bottom radiator. Would this reduce the cooling efficiency on the turbo cartridge? Thoughts on this?

The schema looks something like this:

Block Adapter --> Swivel on Run Fitting ---\------>Turbo ----------> Swivel on Run Fitting ---> Bottom Radiator
.................................................. ..........\------> Wastegate ----^

2kdrift

No need to cool WG unless your doing Auto X

Autoworks

There's no need to run water through the gate unless you are under some heavy duty racing app where the gate is seeing extreme heat and long duration open activity. Outside of that, just leave the gate water ports open for air to circulate through it. (The gate is also -4 where the turbo water lines are typically going to be -6)

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Co-sign

Cole D

What size fitting do you need for the stock radiator for a -6 waterline hook-up?

Cole D

I've searched but cannot find anything about what size an fitting for the stock radiator drain plug to allow a -6 water line

Cole D

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's where you get a more efficient radiator for your turbo car from the beginning, sir.

And yes, you need to do it for the health the system. No eBay option either

Cole D

Thanks for commenting but that does not answer my questions. For right now I'm running what I have and deciding what efficient radiator to run.

Txdragon

Good luck with this. Best I have found is that it **may** be a 3/8 coarse thread. My intention is to take the drain plug to the hardware store and see if I can find ANY possible threaded nipple fittings and see which works out. If you get one small enough, similar to a small heater core nipple, this could suffice for a turbo drain provided it threads in ok and doesn't leak from the bung. Just attach drain line and clamp that sucker down with a clamp or 2. Done and done.
What Shodan was saying is that since you can't, or IF you can't find a solution, get a radiator that has this option available. It was mentioned that Go-Autoworks sells one, and it is reasonable in price too! Upgraded radiator with the amenities you need for an affordable cost? Sold!!