sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

So it's been a looooong time since I have actually done a turbo setup. (Last was a DOHC ZC Crx with some stage 2 exospeed regrinds,.63/.60 T-bird turbo and turbo edit) so its been a while.

Restoring my Em1 and want a little extra grunt. Bought the car and ended up having toasted main bearings. So b16 is laying here ready for something.

Plans include piston/rod combo utilizing stock sleeves.
Gt3076r .63 a/r for good response
Wanting to make high 3-low 400's
Will be using b16 head obviously
ITR cams
Supertech valve train with OEM retainers (Street Car)
rev limit will be where itr's stop making power. so probably 85-8600

Won't do any porting as it should not be needed for my power goals

My question revolves around the a2 intake manifold. Will this be sufficient for my power goals?
Would I need to swap out to say an ITR unit with matching ITR throttle body or is an aftermarket solution going to be best bet?

If aftermarket is going to be best best (I hate s2 or blox simply because of their business practices) All that really leaves is Edelbrock or some huge plenum GE style or custom units.

Being I live in the mountains with very few straights and hilly areas would the performer X be a better solution for my particular build even though I would say the victor X would probably produce more through the rev range?

If Aftermarket is best case scenario of course.

Any and all input is greatly appreciated.

And without pictures thread is useless



NEW UPDATE POST #28

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I'm attempting to see what block you're using. I see you're mentioning B16 head, and what's being pictured looks like a B18B, was just going to be sure.

With the turbocharger you're planning to use, and the limited options that you've given. The EdleBrock Performance X is your first, best bet for the use of that turbocharger in either B16 or B16/B18B Hybrid form. The Performer X has longer runners for better torque management for your purpose of hillclimb, winding-road utility.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

That's my old ZC turbo CRX

Kit is going in 1999 civic SI Full B16a2

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Being this particular manifold would be a heavily favored choice what would the throttle body choice be? Be it the factory 60mm,ITR 62mm,65mm or 70mm be the best fit?

Those particular manifolds have a 66mm opening

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I see. Full B16A2 it is.

This is where I honestly like the Skunk2 Alpha, (Not to be mistaken for their Billet "PRO" Series Throttle bodies.) However, you don't like their practices, so the only other one I actually cared for was the Professional Products (Edlebrock private label) Cast Throttle bodies.
You can have the inlet of the PerformerX ported to match, as long as you don't cut into the IACV opening in the upper left corner, if necessary.
You're force inducted with a standard GT3076R at 52lbs/min. There's no need to go above 66mm anyway.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

I have been looking at each branding. JG offers a 65mm for the performer X at a cost. $462. Does not list as a taper bore or anything. I will delve deeper into the professional product line.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-4790-Performer-X-65mm-Throttle-Body/200696626449?epid=178853147&hash=item2eba737d11:g: PtgAAOSw-0xYXX7u&vxp=mtr

I have also seen some used Accufab units and most others are just off brand super cheap worry about QC units.

May even look for a stock unit port matched to the manifold itself..

2kdrift

Swallow your pride and get a skunk2 alpha lol

there cheap and work good

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I can co-sign that... The fact that they're the only ones with an OEM fine-idle adjustment screw, absolutely. I"ve used 3 of them, never had a problem since they were released.
But I understand you're not wanting to use certain companies due to business practice and their ethics. The main reason why I'll never run ID injectors, Full-Race manifolds, or Brian Crower equipment. So, I get it.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

It's a very attractive price for the 66mm unit,but I just can't bring myself to use any of their components.

Going to send a spare unit I have kicking around to maxbore and let him bore it out for the same price.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

My .02, you will be able to attain your goals very easily with a oem b16 intake manifold and throttle body. That money would be better utilized elsewhere. If anything I would use an ITR intake manifold and throttle body. Nothing more for those moderate goals.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

Also, side note, I am parting my turbo gsr out and have ITR cams Supertech valve springs with k20 spring retainers for sale if you're interested.

DumpdEJ6

I have the Professional Products 66mm TB and I've got nothing bad to say about it, for what it's worth. Zero issues.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Friend finally decided to part his Integra out and go full in on his s2000. Picked up his complete itr head with cams,and supertech's already in it.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking about an ITR manifold but I guess I wait and see. Still gathering parts and pieces for the motor plus time to get the machine work and stuff that it needs done. I may just use the a2 intake/tb combo for now see what power/torque curve looks like and upgrade from there.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Do they have authorized dealers now? Ebay is pretty slim picking for them and the professional products site only shows the part for a 68mm.

Acura 1994-2001 GSR/Type R - Throttle Bodies

k20z1ej1

im curious to hear about your position on ID, if youre willing to share

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Because eBay. Automotive aftermarket companies no longer want their products associated with them due to their practices. They leave that to the dealers that wish to sell on eBay to deal with that.

The 66mm maybe discontinued except for old stock. Very few people got those.

Better off at Summit Racing. Best price you're gonna get for that, since they used to go through Nickel's...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...iew/make/acura

GIZZ - EXV

It's turbo, honestly intake manifold and throttle body would be about the last mod I would add. I say leave them stock and just get it turbo'd. If you have a performance goal I'd start with a lighter car.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Fun driver. Tha'ts the only goal.. It is just another blue honda civic..

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Then skip the TB and intake manifold altogether. As stated, get the rest of the turbo setup together first. Especially until you get a specific goal and purpose in mind.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Car is mostly going to be a fun car to drive when I want. Don't need the car for any specific purpose. Maybe occasional visit to localish 1/8th,1/4 mile. Possibly even a fun visit to Summit Point just to do a few circuit runs. Nothing hardcore and not looking to race every muskrat,commode,charger I see,but the occasional drag someone's *** from a roll will be just fine for me.

GIZZ - EXV

For the possible circuit visit - Get a full sized aluminum radiator with twin Spals, and relays to run at dual speeds. It may cost more than an intake and TB, but you'd rather not pay for circuit time in order to have your car fail.

DumpdEJ6

My apologies, I have the 68mm.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

At least a good Koyo if not a files sized quality radiator. You need to pick your parts carefully for use in so many purposes. What you describe is so general, you'll easily go too far in one discretion if they're not careful.

I age with skipping the intake manifold and TB altogether and focus on the right sized (smaller) DBB turbocharger so that it can survive ALL those purposes you've listed.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Taking all opinions into consideration. Not 100% solid on this particular plan. Car is going to be in the process of a restoration/upgrade. Money has been spent no where and Zero parts are gathered. Except engine that is lying disassembled ready for the machine shop,if I choose to stick with the B16 which was installed in the car by Honda