grizzled

I just installed the Edelbrock 1500 kit on my D16Y8 and the car seems to be running well. Aside from a coolant leak and the MAP sensor giving me a CEL (until I get the Voltage Clamp Kit installed) my problem is the boost gauge readings.

I was expecting to see between 5-8 psi on the gauge when I started the car up, instead I'm seeing 20 vacuum at idle, 15 for a second when I punch it, and between 25-30hg vacuum when I keep her at a steady 3-4k rpm.

I pulled off the nylon hose from the intake mani and blew in it and the gauge is going positive so it seems like the gauge is working fine. How is it possible for me to be seeing vacuum during boost??

Thanks in advance guys~

playahwitgame

well when your idle you have no boost. all your numbers are fine. your in vacuum until you get into boost. andboost comes with load on engine. you dont have a load while cruisin. do u acheive your 5-8 psi when you go at wide open throttle?

grizzled

I can't go WOT right now because I just installed the Edelbrock 1500 Kit for my D16 and they forgot to tell me up front there's an issue with the MAP sensor throwing CELs due to seeing boost.

So I had to order the Voltage Clamp Kit for 65$ to correct the problem and it won't be here until Tuesday

Right now, no matter what I try I can't get + on the pressure side without hitting limp mode. I "feel like" I'm getting into boost at least a little just before throwing the CEL and the gauge isn't showing that. Shouldn't it be at least going slightly positive?

Thanks for the reply bro, hopefully they keep coming.

boosted92

What else is there to "keep coming"?

When your motor is idling and there isn't enough exhaust flow/energy to spin the turbo fast enough to make boost there is going to be a vacuum in the intake manifold, since your motor is essentially a giant pump and is drawing in air. Your chances of seeing some positive manifold pressure with barely any throttle application are slim to none. Seriously, if you didn't know your motor pulls vacuum at idle and that you need load/some throttle to make boost maybe you should have sat down and did more research before you jumped into a turbo kit.

And also, did you ever think the reason your motor stumbles and hits limp mode before you make boost has to do with the same reason as the MAP sensor causing the ECU to throw a CEL when you hit boost? Makes pretty damn good sense to me.

2point2

a 50 shot of nitrous will fix that problem.

Mag00n

op should not own a turbo honda

research FIRST then build

jared99

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grizzled &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't go WOT right now because I just installed the Edelbrock 1500 Kit for my D16 and they forgot to tell me up front there's an issue with the MAP sensor throwing CELs due to seeing boost.

So I had to order the Voltage Clamp Kit for 65$ to correct the problem and it won't be here until Tuesday

Right now, no matter what I try I can't get + on the pressure side without hitting limp mode. I "feel like" I'm getting into boost at least a little just before throwing the CEL and the gauge isn't showing that. Shouldn't it be at least going slightly positive?

Thanks for the reply bro, hopefully they keep coming.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or you can just run a check valve setup temporarily instead of the Voltage Clamp Kit. It's like $5. I could explain how but if you do a search i'm sure it's been covered plenty of times.

This has also been covered lots of times but there are no fuel mappings for boost since the car wasn't designed for it. So no, you shouldn't be going slightly positive at all. You can even download Crome for free and look at the stock fuel mappings if you really care.

HiProfile

You shouldn't have got such a small kit - you'll want a b18 or something when you blow the d16 the first day it sees boost. Pushing 5-8psi at idle... full boost while cruising... you'd be on the brakes all the way from gas station to gas station


Please read that bees and goats turbo page. It will do you good. I've seen my share of ignorant retards concerning turbos, this guy isn't the worst by far. Actually, that sounds scary.

grizzled

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seriously, if you didn't know your motor pulls vacuum at idle and that you need load/some throttle to make boost maybe you should have sat down and did more research before you jumped into a turbo kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe I didn't make myself clear, I understand that at idle I'm supposed to be in vacuum. I'm talking about on acceleration. The motor can currently rev up to a little over 4k before throwing a CEL, and I remember what the car did when it was N/A and it's pulling much harder now before the 4k CEL point... which makes me think it's in boost if even for that short time.

The question is, why isn't the gauge showing that? The max I've seen the gauge get to is 5 hg vacuum, so would this just be explained by gauge lag? That's what I'm trying to get at.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And also, did you ever think the reason your motor stumbles and hits limp mode before you make boost has to do with the same reason as the MAP sensor causing the ECU to throw a CEL when you hit boost? Makes pretty damn good sense to me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is why, I checked the code and I know it's the MAP high voltage output error, that isn't the question. Again, my appologies if I wasn't clear.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jared99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Or you can just run a check valve setup temporarily instead of the Voltage Clamp Kit. It's like $5</TD></TR></TABLE>

Jared I like that idea, I'm going to look into that just for curiosity's sake.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You shouldn't have got such a small kit - you'll want a b18 or something when you blow the d16 the first day it sees boost. Pushing 5-8psi at idle... full boost while cruising... you'd be on the brakes all the way from gas station to gas station

Please read that bees and goats turbo page. It will do you good. I've seen my share of ignorant retards concerning turbos, this guy isn't the worst by far. Actually, that sounds scary. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, I appreciate your concern HiProfile, but the kit I'm using is specifically for the D16 and it's staying low boost (8-10) for a while until I get the bottom end built. I am definitely a noob to the forced induction thing which is why I did the research and put the kit in myself - to learn.

Thanks to all for the replies, even the ones that were a little harsh. I probably made myself seem a little more ignorant than I actually am by giving you guys the impression that I was talking about seeing vacuum at idle instead of 3500-4k rpm.

It looks like I'll just get the CEL/MAP sensor issue taken care of first before I start worrying about why the boost gauge isn't going +.

HiProfile

FWIW I think running w/o knowing exactly how much boost you have is very dangerous. At least get some1 else in the car to watch the gauge. That turbo should easily spool fully by 4k rpm. My guess the gauge is junk. What brand gauge is it? I've used just mechanical autometers, and even with 1/8" nylon tubing they work perfect, and respond VERY quickly. It should be connected to the intake manifold (after the throttle body), make sure there's no leaks (u'll have to find out how, search). Also, I'd suggest running the wastegate line right off the turbo housing (if there's a hole availible).

And just to make it clear for u and others in the future, here's how it works: When a gas engine has 'spare power', it will accelerate (increase rpm's). At idle/cruising, you need very little power. The throttle body is virtually closed, so its basicly trying to choke the motor, in a controlled fasion. That's why you get vacuum at low loads. When you are at WOT (wide open/full throttle), you should be just under 0psi, then the turbo starts to increase that.

I didn't mean to be an ***, I joke a lot. But honestly, I've seen more than a few motors destroyed when people tried 'walking before they could crawl'. One installed a WG improperly, didn't boost a b16 till 6k rpm, one blew a b18b1 in a day, one fried a HG after a week, one cracked a cyl when he put on a MBC backwards w/o having a boost gauge. Most motors don't like 30psi+, esp w/o tuning.

grizzled

Thanks for straightening out my head guys. I was in troubleshooting mode and every little thing was setting me off. The boost gauge is working fine. For some reason I was thinking a boosted car should run with less vacuum than what I'm seeing, but in reality it doesn't have ANY positive pressure in the mani until the turbo starts to spool.

I drove the car today and the ECU is throwing a code when it's supposed to, right when the pressure begins to go from vacuum to positive pressure. The Boost Gauge (Autometer by the way) is giving perfectly accurate readings and just as it should be I'm getting a MAP sensor high voltage (p0108) code whenever the boost gauge reads between 0-2 psi.

By the way HiPro, I dig that sedan of yours, nice job with it $$

ragethemachine86

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grizzled &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drove the car today and the ECU is throwing a code when it's supposed to, right when the pressure begins to go from vacuum to positive pressure. The Boost Gauge (Autometer by the way) is giving perfectly accurate readings and just as it should be I'm getting a MAP sensor high voltage (p0108) code whenever the boost gauge reads between 0-2 psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does it also bog/limp when you get into boost or are you just saying that a CEL comes on and thats your only concern?

Yani

while holding 3500-4000 rpm you shouldnt be seeing any boost.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

he was revving it with no load wondering why it wasnt building boost.
now that hes driving it, its building boost... /thread

wade

iTrader: (1)

is this thread for real? or a sick joke

grizzled

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ragethemachine86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Does it also bog/limp when you get into boost or are you just saying that a CEL comes on and thats your only concern?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, throws the CEL and goes into limp when boost kicks in. One code showing and that's the MAP sensor high voltage error.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fst Blk GTi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

while holding 3500-4000 rpm you shouldnt be seeing any boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right, while HOLDING I don't see boost, on acceleration I do.

My head is straight now guys, thanks for the input