mark11017

Stock turbo Gsr at idle my pressure is about 11psi on 10 30 non syn. I'm looking for a straight answer on what oil to run I've searched on here seeing alot of people running mobile1 15 50. I was told to never run syn. What are you guys running for oil? Summer in ct can hit around 90-100 deg and winter can vary between 20-50 deg.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Hey mark, you want to run stock viscosity 10w30. if the car has a catalytic converter on it then you need to stick with some conventional or synthetic without zinc addatives. I personally dont have a cat and i like to run rotall t5 10w30 which is a synthetic with zinc for optimal protection against wear and thermal breakdown. Im in CT and it works well. if you have a cat then run castrol synthetic seems to be thicker than the rest. i dont like mobile1 or royalpurple. redline is good bt 14bucks a pop. lol Rotella can be had at walmart for 4 quart/1gallon 16 bucks.

sanman000719

I ran 10/30 royal purple man had no issues at all

mark11017

Thanks guys I'm running castrol now 10 30 having issues with it. Have a faint knock at idle. Turbo ls what is your oil pressure at warm idle ?

cluelessmale

iTrader: (1)

I run 5w-30 or 10w-30, and whatever is the Autozone oil deal. Have not had any issue with any brand of oil.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Since i change my oil every 1000 miles.. i use 10-40 castrol or valvoline.. usually a sale on these with filter for 18.00 at advanced auto.

mark11017

So most of you are syn? Thinking about 10 30 or 10 40 syn

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

id have to hear the faint knock but wyou wcould have excessive bearing clearences which is most likely why you have lower oil pressure at idle. I dont know my oil pressure as my electronic setup isnt working right now but you should be around 20psi idle hot. if you have 11 psi then your as losing pressure somewhere and probably from a rod bearing. where did you get the car tuned? miles on motor? dump the oil and look for shavings or copper metalic in oil

from my experience with many cars and makes and engines royal purple 85% of the time would develop leaks

a thicker oil should raise oil pressure in your motor BUT its a baided and if you have bearing damage its only a matter of time. what engine management are you running

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Im just running conventional.. i change often cuz the turbo breaks down the additives quicker..

But this is just me. 18.00 a month is nothing for an oil change.

mark11017

Motor is freshly rebuilt and has been broken in, I'm on Crome on my old ls tune I'm not bringing it above 5k or driving it hard. I was going to tune last night but the knock is worrying me. If you check my threads I have a video posted In the civic forum of the knock.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

well your old LS tune on a GSR motor could be a very good reason why your knocking. was it knocking on start up and before you drove on your old tune? and f your on an ls tune then why is that motor ever seeing any more than in and out of the garage and no more than 2-3k rpm TOPS. al it takes is a little detonation to pound out a rod bearing. post a link to your other threds. kinda busy right now to go searching.

mark11017

wonderful, im going to be pulling the pan in a few min to check and see whats going on. i just noticed it 2 days ago when i pulled it in for the night. dont think it was doing this on the start up. hopefully if it is a rod bearing ive caught it in time..

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/strange-knock-only-%40-idle-need-opinions-2829506/ the video is in there, u have to listen realllll close to hear it it is very faint.

Schister66

I used to run nothing but 10w30 Royal Purple, but since then, i have returned to using conventional oil. I didnt notice any difference other than a few more $$ in my pocket

sanman000719

with me running e85 i have had better luck with the purple not breaking down as fast on me, and i run purple synchromech in the tranny as well

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

if you havent pulled the pan yet start it up and rev a little bit and pul one plug wire off at a time to see if the noise goes away to let you know which cylinder is knocking if any. that sorta sounds like a rod but hard to tell on a video

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

thickness wise how is that purple syncromesh? Im running redline MTL curently and it seems to work pretty good. my clutch master is leaking so now im grinding gears high rpm so been taking it easy on the car

mark11017

pans off idk everything looks fine.. there a little side to side play on the rods, no up and down. i did the spark plug thing last night i couldent tell becuz the knock isent that loud. it did sound like it went away when i pulled cyl 4 so im going to pull the rod cap off and check the bearing

mark11017

did a little shopping found rotella at advanced.. its non syn though, should i find the syn one or does it matter? what is the color of the container turbo ls blue or like a greyish

overvolting

Just an FYI.

Check the owner's manual, the stock oil viscosity for a GSR is 5w30, not 10w30 as described in the very first reply.

sanman000719

true but these aint stock motors anymore either lol there is a little more pressure going into then, and well that snail thats on the exhaust mani as well

10/30 man

as far as the synchromech its the poopoo man im loving it, and im also running the carbon synchros this combination has done me well so far this year

v8killaz

synchromesh did nothing to my trans, i mean nothing. I heard it was like magic and it didnt shift smoother than Honda mtf.

now my new car has a 3rd gear grind very faint but i feel it i changed to sychromesh, did absolutely nothing.



other than that my car y8 turbo runs 10w40, i ran 10w30 once and my car would smoke like i was pouring oil in the exhaust

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

10w30 is good for a b series 5w30 can also be run but depends in bearing clearences to the OP the rotella 10w30 comes in a grey bottle. They only have one 10w30 so if you gt it then you have the right one lol. I'd pull that rod cap and inspect both bearings. You might have got some debris that made it's way to that bearing. Happend to me before

mark11017

bearings all looked real good, must have been something stupid hitting something maybe? im going to pick up the oil today when i put the pan back on ill let you kno how it goes thank you for your help so far

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

No problem. Good luck

jetspeedz

15w50 on all my turbo cars / bikes for 20+ years no issues and bearings look as good as day one. Out here in Cali there is no reason not to run this oil. If you are hard on your motor the heat from forced induction will break down the oil faster so running a ticker weight oil is best if you want your bearings to last longer. Sorry i don't buy running lower weight oil saves bearing with proper clearance. 15w50 and 10w30/40 are not much off when it comes to summer time weather. If you let your motor properly heat up before you beat on it you should have no problem running this oil even in colder climates. Now in freezing climates i can see using lighter weight oil.

good luck