Simmerman

Modified by Simmerman at 3:30 PM 5/22/2008

BEEYOND

you rather do a ls/vtec. sleeves are much stronger from what i've seen and experimented with. b20 stock sleeve gets a taken stock b18/b16 sleeve up in the 17-20psi levels safely. others here have done more..or so they say i really mean at a safe level..not one-run-wonders.

if you use your b20 for boost stick with 8psi and you'll be ok. the design of the b20 oem sleeves are notorious since they are a one piece fitment instead of individual sleeves like the b18/b16s. Even tuned good at higher boost say 12psi or so the oem b20 sleeves will grow hair line cracks and continue from there. by the time you know it, you'll have cracks all over. i've seen this from many boosted oem b20 blocks and a few high compression setups even with good tunes. on b18/b16s usually you see one or two BIG crack due to detonation, material quality(all materials are never exactly equivalent), or just simply too much boost.

good luck on your build

Schister66

I dont even know where to start...

1. The B20 has the weakest of all B series sleeves. They've been known to fail around 300whp. Building one without aftermarket sleeves is a waste of money IMO.
2. For your power goals, an LS or GSR with the same piston/rod build would be a lot better option

Thats all i have for now...

Simmerman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont even know where to start...

1. The B20 has the weakest of all B series sleeves. They've been known to fail around 300whp. Building one without aftermarket sleeves is a waste of money IMO.
2. For your power goals, an LS or GSR with the same piston/rod build would be a lot better option

Thats all i have for now...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats pretty much what I was getting at. I mean the 84mm is nice but my friend is saying DDing a sleeved motor isn't in my best interest. I'm not all the experienced when it comes to building yet.

But I have seen a stock block B20/VTEC Turbo running on 13PSI and is making around 375whp (on a street tune but has raced 400whp cars and hung with them)

quicksilver1689

i have seen 300whp~ non vtec b20 builds that were reliable, performed well, yes the sleeves are weaker but for a mild turbo build under 300whp i wouldnt see a problem all other things done right

DownShiftPerformDC2

I would go with a stock sleeved ls/v setup on boost and not even bother with the whole b20 idea . . . thin cylinder walls wont last long under boost . . .

Simmerman

I've already have a stock b16 boost in the car.
Want something bigger. I mean my AFI kit is on the way, I'm going big this time and don't want anything with OEM bottom end.

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have seen 300whp~ non vtec b20 builds that were reliable, performed well, yes the sleeves are weaker but for a mild turbo build under 300whp i wouldnt see a problem all other things done right</TD></TR></TABLE>

They also fail when revved to the moon. Bottom line, avoid harmonics/vibrations with those blocks which are caused by rotational harmonics or detonation.

My money is with the B18 bottom ends like Schister stated, whether sleeved to 81-85mm or not.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simmerman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I mean the 84mm is nice but my friend is saying DDing a sleeved motor isn't in my best interest.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The problem is forged pistons scraping your bores to death - it's going to happen with either stock or aftermarket sleeves.

Frankly, you think you want more torque which comes from more displacement + turning the fun **** on the boost controller, but in some cars the extra displacement and extra boost creates nasty wheelspin problems and you don't go as fast as you could with a better thought out setup. What bottom end to run goes hand in hand with vehicle weight, gearing, and turbo selection.

Simmerman

It's a AFI street kit along with a full-race traction bar and some other goodies.

lakai_19

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2147282

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simmerman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a AFI street kit along with a full-race traction bar and some other goodies.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know, you've already stated. Based on the variables you haven't stated any of the B-series combos from B16 to 85X89mm could be right for you.

Chassis/weight, and gearing pls.

Schister66

I'm still sticking to my guns...B18a/b/c would be the best option IMO. I have a turbo GSR and at 315whp/216tq, i had enough trouble hooking on the street with anything less than BFG Drag Radials

In this case, more torque doesn't equal faster, it merely equals balder tires

Simmerman

EM1 w/ full interior. 2648lbs?
Trying to find a JDM GSR trans but right now I'm stuck with a open diff B16

quick26

i am running a set up similar to what you are talking about and so far i have had been ok with it. i daily drive it.

EddieCRX

I’m in the same boat, running a sleeved and built B16 (81mm stock) and I’m about to change for a B18 ITR engine, will have forged pistons & rods but the rest will remain stock ITR including the sleeves.
I see many on here running good power and torque on stock sleeved B18’s but never really hear about failures and real world reliability?
My goals are modest in comparison to many, street drive, track days and drag with 400 to 450 UK @flywheel.
The current engine is great but lacks the torque I’m looking for, could run more laughing gas but I prefer the larger displacement.
Not an easy choice really,,,

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simmerman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EM1 w/ full interior. 2648lbs?
Trying to find a JDM GSR trans but right now I'm stuck with a open diff B16 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Your a bit porkier than 2648, if I had to guess you top 2700 by a tiny bit. Go B18 bottom end at the very least, you do need it. B16 were great in CRXs but the EM1 weighs close to a thousand pounds more.

JDM GSR is a form of failure. The "acorn" diff in it is known to break when launching a stock GSR on slicks. B16 w/ OBX or Quaife, or ITR (it's LSD is good to ~350) would be good choices since you don't sound like you'll be pushing big power (B20/VTEC + 8 psi in your original statement).

JDMs1eeper

Ive boosted b20s for long periods of time but with sub 300whp and a good tune.

If your building something, id say go with a B18a/b/c. Ive ran as much as 28psi long term on a stock LS block w/o issues. They are pretty stout.

Listen to JD, he knows his stuff

trujdmek

400whp on race gas

red02s2k

Thought i would bring this back I have a Stock sleeves b20b with a vtec head on e85 and i pulled 440 @ 18psi so umm yeah 300 is nothing

turboEGhatch

Better question: how long has it lasted and how much do you beat on it? I cracked sleeves @ 330 WHP after about 3000 street miles and 15 passes.

red02s2k

well this block i have had for a year and a half the psitons have been change twice both times where stock and now this ones are wisco