AJxr

hey guys looking for some input.

so i did the age old spun rod bearing on the stock bottom ls vtec ive been running. im trying to throw a motor together and not spend $1 aside what im paying to have my head cut.

this is what i have
b16a2 block and crank
tuner toys rods
stock pr4 pistons

jdm b16a head, ctr cams, etc. etc.

the zeal comp calc says i should be about 8.6:1 compression not counting what is milled off my head. running a turbo setup capable of ~450whp, holset h1c, etc. etc.

has anyone ran stock pistons on aftermarket rods? i know the pistons arent whats holding the power to a degree but they wont stand to detonation. also everyone has seen stock pistons do 400 with solid tuning.

92civicx

if anything ppl change the pistons before the rods, if anything. but everyone usually just put in some aftermarket pistons anyways.

redflaredcrx90

stock pistons r a week link in your set up. fix the spun bearing. micro polish the crank resize rods and get new bearing. save some money and buy new pistons for you new rods and. so sence in going the cheap route on a turbo motor . dont for get stock piston can run about 14 psi safely with good tunning before ringlanding crack

redlinetuning

First off, if you are trying to lower compression, why are you milling the head? If it's not warped or anything you should be fine.

The money you'd save in the long run by getting new pistons would be more of your interest than not. 8.4:1 compression is going to be pretty boggy , so you'd want to stay right around 9.0:1 instead.

Depending on the condition that your crank is in with the spun bearing, you're still going to need to replace the piston rings anyway, so why not new pistons all at once?

AJxr

redoing the lsv is out of the question. i have all the bearings, gaskets, brand new tt rods for the b16. not to mention its a 2000 block/crank with ~60k on it and very pretty so ill be staying 81mm.

basically im a jew and ill do whatever because it isnt "whats best" to me, its what will work and do what i want correctly for the cheapest. its a track car, idc about reliability. boost will probably be in the 14-15psi range but i dont think this car will see any race gas at least for awhile... so some 93 octane.

and the head needed a mill, there was some good marks on the bottom. im not going for low compression i was just using what i have regarding the pr4 pistons.

basically i figured id get answers like "just buy pistons." as for the "long run" if i buy these pistons i hope for a long runner that will get me some 10s.

also as for the mid 8s compression boggyness im coming from a 7.5:1 vitara motor that had a 6-8k powerband so anything else is good to me. looks like im gonna stalk ebay and classifieds for some NEW cheap pistons.

Ls_dx

iTrader: (5)

Running H beams on a stock piston is a total waste of time. Get you some stock Honda rods out of a used block or invest in some forged pistons.

redflaredcrx90

ive rebuilt 3 block in the last yr. with all my machine work and parts i spent like 300 a block. be a jew if ya want but i know youll be back too rebuilding a motor a lot sooner if you do a stock piston and aftermaket rod

tegman23

Spend the money and get pistons....whats $400 when your going to end up replacing alot more when your stock pistons cracks arpart

NJIN BUILDR

Unless your tuner toy rods are set up for a press fit pin you are going to have your pistons machined for wrist pin clips.This alone should make you decide to use aftermarket pistons.Or just put another set of stock rods/pistons back in.But I will never run oem pistons in a turbo Honda again.It's a wasted effort.

Silva Bullit DC4

Agreed.

HiProfile

Since you opened the door to using the word, find someone selling pistons and "jew" them down on the price. When you add everything up, even a full $450 for pistons is no more than 20% of your overall cost. Considering that a 100% stock B16 head/IM has made 560whp before, I'd get forged pistons WAY before ctr cams. The price of used pr4's & ctr cams, along with new rings (even the cheap ebay rings), is more than that of Wiseco or CP pistons. THAT would be the cheapest.

FYI on a b16 it's most commonly the ringlands that go, not the rods. The good R:S ratio in the b16 lessens the sideload on the rods, so they're not likely to bend. The TT rods aren't rated for high RPM either, another "hole" in your logic. The last hole is the money needed to convert the pistons to floating wrist pins.


Cliffs: Sell your cams, buy pistons with the money, then do your build. Adding cams later WILL be cheaper than adding forged pistons.

AJxr

hiprofile always has some useful info.

well im on to search for some pistons.