Stock H22a Turbo
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Stock H22a Turbo
Can someone "that knows" please tell me how much boost a bone stock h22a can handle saftly? so many different answer everywere...
And what parts are weak? blows up first? Rods?
Thanks!
And what parts are weak? blows up first? Rods?
Thanks!
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Re: (soon2b_EG)
okey, but how do i know when im safe without have it dyno tested? I dont have a dyno to check hp you know.. just need some advice, I just got this engie into my civic and i just have a cuople of days left until i got all my parts and im all done,
Thanks
Thanks
#4
ringlands will probably go first if the engine is healthy.
My buddy killed his ringlands at a little under 300whp. He spiked to like 18 psi though on a t3t4 57 trim I think. The car was only tuned to 8-9 lbs using the stock honda map so when he spiked, it went kla kla kla kla kla.
My buddy killed his ringlands at a little under 300whp. He spiked to like 18 psi though on a t3t4 57 trim I think. The car was only tuned to 8-9 lbs using the stock honda map so when he spiked, it went kla kla kla kla kla.
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Re: (OLD_HATCH)
i got exrta fuel injection trough a "Mapfueler2" I have added 2 extra injectors that i can control for each 1000rpm with that thing, so i think fuel is no concern. and reading sparkplugs m i usd to..
#6
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Re: (Dr.green)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr.green »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got exrta fuel injection trough a "Mapfueler2" I have added 2 extra injectors that i can control for each 1000rpm with that thing, so i think fuel is no concern. and reading sparkplugs m i usd to.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You do realize that is complete crap, don't you?
You do realize that is complete crap, don't you?
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zero psi is the max (if you want it to last) 10psi if you dont mind replacing the engine a couple times a year.
weak ringlands and the sleeves are made of a weaker material, not cast iron.
lets face it, if you wanna run boost on a H series, you need to get it sleeved. i thought this was cover like 5 years ago.
weak ringlands and the sleeves are made of a weaker material, not cast iron.
lets face it, if you wanna run boost on a H series, you need to get it sleeved. i thought this was cover like 5 years ago.
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#8
Re: (QuickStyle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuickStyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...and the sleeves are made of a weaker material, not cast iron.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually, the H sleeves are pretty strong...the reason you need to resleeve when using most aftermarket forged pistons is the FRM coating on the H Sleeves
</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually, the H sleeves are pretty strong...the reason you need to resleeve when using most aftermarket forged pistons is the FRM coating on the H Sleeves
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Re: (Dr.green)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr.green »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okey, but how do i know when im safe without have it dyno tested? I dont have a dyno to check hp you know.. just need some advice, I just got this engie into my civic and i just have a cuople of days left until i got all my parts and im all done,
Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>
First, research research research! Give us a break down of all your parts.
If you think you'll be okay with that little controller thing for your two extra injectors, you're in for a world of hurting when you go to boost it. You'll need at the minimum a reliable EMS to control larger injectors and tune properly.
How do you tune, you ask? Well, you can start off with a basemap and street tune it with a wideband O2. Then hop on a dyno and fine tune it some more. Again, this is assuming you have all the proper parts.
But to answer your original question: I wouldn't recommend anything over the wastegate spring pressure at first. The weak points in a stock H22a are the ringlands, which tend to break off from severe detonation (what wouldn't?!). Everything else being equal, I would definitely advise you to take it to a reputable shop and have them help you.
Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>
First, research research research! Give us a break down of all your parts.
If you think you'll be okay with that little controller thing for your two extra injectors, you're in for a world of hurting when you go to boost it. You'll need at the minimum a reliable EMS to control larger injectors and tune properly.
How do you tune, you ask? Well, you can start off with a basemap and street tune it with a wideband O2. Then hop on a dyno and fine tune it some more. Again, this is assuming you have all the proper parts.
But to answer your original question: I wouldn't recommend anything over the wastegate spring pressure at first. The weak points in a stock H22a are the ringlands, which tend to break off from severe detonation (what wouldn't?!). Everything else being equal, I would definitely advise you to take it to a reputable shop and have them help you.
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Re: (xenocron)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
actually, the H sleeves are pretty strong...the reason you need to resleeve when using most aftermarket forged pistons is the FRM coating on the H Sleeves</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes i was refering to the FRM, but i thought that it was the material it was made of, did not know it was a coating. now im going to have to research some more on the sleeves.
actually, the H sleeves are pretty strong...the reason you need to resleeve when using most aftermarket forged pistons is the FRM coating on the H Sleeves</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes i was refering to the FRM, but i thought that it was the material it was made of, did not know it was a coating. now im going to have to research some more on the sleeves.
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Re: (QuickStyle)
8 psi is usually safe if you have it tuned- h22 blocks are stronger than people think there solid decks not open like b series, so just keep the boost low and get her tuned youll be fine
#12
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Re: (1fastlude1)
Lol... do you guys know the record for an JDM H22? lol it was about 530whp and lasted a over a 100 passes and a over 100 dyno pulls. The head blew after a while. Bottom end was still good. BTW it is a mater of psi AND Horsepower. LudeTechs car lasted for making 330whp @ 9psi for a year. He then took the kit off and sold the car. The engine was still healthy with perfect compression and is still driving today.
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Re: (alterdcreations)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You do realize that is complete crap, don't you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude he is right, im in the process of getting ready to get my GSR tuned. I am currently running that MF2 crap. And trust me that fuel setup is so hit or miss. One day it drives good, another it runs like Crap. Runs rich as ****. and there is just something about throwing gasoline right into the intake manifold i just dont feel safe with lol. Bigger injectors, fuel pump, standalone Ftw!!!
You do realize that is complete crap, don't you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude he is right, im in the process of getting ready to get my GSR tuned. I am currently running that MF2 crap. And trust me that fuel setup is so hit or miss. One day it drives good, another it runs like Crap. Runs rich as ****. and there is just something about throwing gasoline right into the intake manifold i just dont feel safe with lol. Bigger injectors, fuel pump, standalone Ftw!!!
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