vtak2nr

hi all

right now i have a t28 set up making only 200whp @ 7psi

im looking for atleast around 250whp.

What i want to know is, i know for sure the .63 can make it, but will the .48 make it easily aswell? Id prefer the .48 because of the quicker spool it will have, but for a 50$ price difference, i dont want to get the .48 then only see it making 220whp @7psi or something

any input//opinions or your specs if you have something similar would all be appreciated

NA James

Why only 7psi. Leave the turbo that is on it and go get it tuned to make 250whp

yungkhmer

get the .63

2.5bar map sensor and up the boost!!!!!!!!!

vtak2nr

ahh long story short, my manifold + turbo dont like my engine

Runnerdown

Here is my favorite #1 best b16a street car turbo setup of all time:

Garrett gt28rs w/t3 hotside
High quality "conventional" ram horn manifold

Very simple, super response and wide powerband.

Remember, log manifolds and big turbos = street car failure.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

just up the boost on your turbo and tune.. Id be hitting 15+psi on that tiny thing

vtak2nr

can you please explain? and the t3 60/.63 you consider big? would 60/.43 work better with a log style mani?

u kinda threw a wrench in my plans because i was actually going to order the blox b series mani



when i went and got my car tuned with my current set up the tuner said "u cant make power because u have a **** manifold(log style aswell) and a small turbo. people that have these mani's atleast have a bigger turbo to help compensate so its not so bad"

??

Runnerdown

No that turbo is not big, but yeah my post made it sound that way. Ditch the blox and get the inline pro manifold. I don't think the blox flows like garbage but I don't support their stuff.

Black R

Why not shoot for 300whp?

Easily doable and fun in a b16 street car with quick spool.

vtak2nr

heard 300whp is +/- the breaking point for the ringlands

Runnerdown

False! that kind of myth is from ten years ago when management, parts and tuning was very poorly done. 300 on a stock b16a is barely breaking a sweat.

Schister66

The T3 60/63 would be your best bet. The problem with the .48 is that it will begin to choke off in the upper rpms and gives only a marginal increase in spool. As for your power goals, you can easily make 300whp all day and do it safely AS LONG AS your engine is healthy, your parts are quality and your tuner knows what he is doing. If you have access to E85 or race gas, you can even set your goals higher. For reference, search for the "Highest HP Stock Block" thread...i know there are several stock B series in the 400+whp range...not that i advocate pushing it that hard, but just so you know it can and has been done.

1. That turbo ISN'T big
2. Log manifolds aren't bad

There are inherent trade-offs to using a log manifold (or any manifold for that matter), so I dont condone your advice. Log manifolds are not bad...they serve a specific purpose. Honestly, running a ramhorn would be a worse idea on a 300whp car than would be a log manifold. The perfect street manifold is a shorty ramhorn...they have a short, but true collector and since they have such short runner length, they are quite responsive. Again, as a comparison, search my name...i ran a topmount + GT3255b then switched to an SLS shorty with the same turbocharger at the same boost. I picked up something like 40-50whp/wtq in the midrange and lost nothing in the top end. Beware of building too big for your goals...that tends to be the trend around here

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

60/63 T3 for the simple fact that the .48 wont hold boost in the upper rpm range, it will start to fall off around 7000 rpm.

You can easily make 250-300 whp (wherever your comfortable) on a log/cast manifold and the 60/63 T3.

The spool up will be a bit later with the .63, say 500 rpm, but it will be worth it because the .48 will dissapoint you above 7000 rpm.

vtak2nr

wow thank you guys for all of the info..!

looks like the 60/.63 it is

im just gonna leave these here. my dyno graph from my current build, taken maybe 2 weeks ago.

will update this thread with new dyno graph once i get it (hopefully 2-3weeks)


before -

after - ???

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

That tq curve could use a little work, you will see much better numbers with the new turbo.

What brand is the turbo your buying?

vtak2nr

its a rebuilt from blaast

quote from site

"exclusive Blaast turbo assembled from a combination of NEW and reman to new components that are 100% genuine and exceeding original specifications. 6 months warranty."

Schister66

Have you already bought the turbo? If not, there are great deals on genuine Precision turbos in the Marketplace (www.hondamarketplace.com). For ~$600, you can buy a name-brand, tried and true turbo that will last. Not to say that Blaast wont (i dont know much about them), but they're not a common name around here. Hold off and wait for more advice before diving into a big purchase like that. To continue on that point, if you have a little extra $$ to spend, PM TheShodan and ask him about his GT32 series turbos. I used to run one on my stock GSR and at 10,5psi it made 315whp/216wtq and had full boost by 3800rpm. It was a wicked little street setup.

Check it out: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...hlight=gt3255b

Schister66

Not to bombard you with tons of info, but i was bored earlier and did al ittle more reading. The GT3251b is a better match for your B16...i had a different turbo, but it was on a GSR. Check this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6RcNur4K4o

Runnerdown

1. I never said his turbo was big, read my response to what he said.
2. In my experience, log manifolds can suck... but it completely depends on the design. The blox is not bad and shouldn't choke his setup. Running a ramhorn a worse idea? You have no clue of how many manifolds I tried, ran on the dyno, multiple turbos and motors etc. I don't care if you don't condone my advice it comes from experience, not forums.

Schister66

From experience, you say... https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...hlight=gt3255b

A topmount isn't the same as a ramhorn, i know, but longer runner length does increase lag...there's simply no arguing that fact. If he's not going to utilize the benefits of the manifold, there's no reason to incur the downfalls if you dont have to

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

For the GT2860RS, I would not run a Kooks manifold either. It takes the entire lowerend part of the powerband out of the equation for the responsiveness of that turbocharger.

Runnerdown

I don't know what your trying to prove with that. Its cool, but what part of that pertains to this thread? I have nothing against mini rams and the op shouldn't either.

My original recommendation is a ramhorn with a t3 gt28rs which would be worlds better than what he has... look at the torque chart its pretty weak.

Runnerdown

So no ramhorn with a 28rs? The response will suffer is that what your saying?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Exactly. The exhaust energy volume may be high enough, but the velocity for the larger part of the powerband is slower than with even a good tubular log manifold would be able to perform.

"Flow" comes in different forms for most that understand the fluid dynamics of exhaust pulses. VOLUME, and VELOCITY. So, even though the exhaust manifold of a Kooks would allow for more top end power, it would hurt the responsive characteristics of a turbo that's about 40lbs/min with good boost pressure, vs a tubular log manifold or "mini-ram" which purpose is to have faster exhaust energy VELOCITY to take advantage of the characteristics of the Disco potato in a much better way.

Runnerdown

Is that in theory or have you ran that setup?

This combo was easily my favorite streetcar setup with 325whp so it boggles my mind that you dissaprove. The response is outstanding, borderline too quick. I have also ran that setup on a b16b and stock b18c1. The gsr was not the greatest match but the 4 b16s I have used them on were perfect.