Civic89stdB16

I have a stock jdm xsi b16 and im putting on Old Skunk 2 IM, 65MM TB, gsr cams, arp head studs, cometic hg, aem fpr. Im going to run a 3" open down pipe. I want to run 93 pump gas at 10psi on the street and 13-15psi at the track. U think it can get 300whp to last for a season and run 11"s on dr's and what size injectors should I buy.(550, 680, 780, 880cc) I want ur opinions. BTW Its going to be a track only car expet driving it to there every once and a while.(10 miles) Thanks

Joseph Davis

OBD0 B16 are long in the tooth... ALL B16 are that way, actually. If it isn't a fresh rebuild I doubt you'll have good luck, and FYI I see a lot of problems from people reusing 20 year old stock pistons and then applying boost.

300 whp on a B16 and having it last depends on how well your car is setup and how you maintanence it. I don't see a problem with it.

11's on DRs at that power level is up to the driver and suspension. I don't know, can you do it?

Any of the injectors you mentioned are good for a little over 300 whp. I recommend you buy injectors good for a little over 300 whp, since a margin of safety is a good thing.

Civic89stdB16

im going to build a b16 81mm sleeved with eagles/weisco. Then im sooting for 450whp. getting a larger turbo then. The stock motor has been mantained great sense ive had it from hmotorsonline.com. Im going to do a compression check next weekend to see if im going to boost it on stock internals. How many psi will it take to see 300whp on stock internals and parts already mentioned. thanks

Joseph Davis

It's still a 20 year old motor, add boost and you'll understand.

I've hit 300 off 11 psi on ram horn, SC34, ITR cams, Peakboost ramhorn. I've hit 300 off 15-16 psi and a log manifold, eGay T3/T04E. It varies a bit.

BTW, OBD0 B16 IM are funky and cause poorly balanced flow. $160-170 for one of the AEBS units is a really good idea.

Civic89stdB16

i have the skunk 2 im old style and gsr cams.
If the compression check comes back bad its pistons and rods. Id rather boost the stock while the new blocks getting built.

Civic89stdB16

i also have lensos with 23" mh slicks on them.

RC000E

It really has alot to do with the overall condition of the motor and how well it was maintained. I've boosted quite a few high mile motors and have seen some do really well.

Like JD said, it's really up to you as a driver and how well the cars putting down the power, as to whether or not you can do 11's on dr. I'm gonna say more than likely no though. You may get some descent mph, but ET wise I don't think you'll get it on d/r.

I say, boost the stock motor...try to hit your power goals, then go for it at the track. Build the other motor and have it ready. See if you can hit the mark of 11sec, then if you realize it won't happen or you actually do it, yank it out and go bigger.

zex_cool

i say you should be able to do it on a good track day AND you dont even need 300whp to get you there.

i <3 dr's.

JDMs1eeper

(following engines are also JDM b16's)

I built a SFAB Ramhorn kit for a customer 2 1/2 years ago and he was making like 280 @ 7psi This is on a 2.5" downpipe and exhaust. Engine is still running strong today and has been on 14psi for about 2 years now. On 14psi it ran a 13.0 @ 115 in a 2000 civic. Was stock, tuned on Chrome PRO by Matt Shue

On another car I did had a DRAG kit on it that made 280whp @ 9psi. I installed 9:1 CP / Eagle combo along with our SFAB topmount turbo kit and made 349 whp @ 9psi. Car was tuned on Chrome PRO by Matt Shue

As far as can you run 11's on 300whp. That depends on your drag racing skills, Car weight, Setup. You'll need to pull a solid 1.8 60ft while maintaining traction in 2nd and 3rd. I used to run 12.2 @ 122 on 300whp with regular all season tires. I've also ran a 11.58 @ 127 on BFG drag radials (1.78 60ft). I feel with practice I could see it being possible.

As far as reliability. I'd take the car to a "VERY COMPETENT" tuner with knowledge of finicky setups like a OEM b16 or D-series.

goodluck


Modified by JDMs1eeper at 4:32 PM 2/24/2008

tegman23

did i miss, what kind of car this is going in? ive seen many people hit 300whp on stock b16 just tuning is everything...for the 11's it all depends my friend with an si had a semi built motor 375 whp running low 12's but was hitting very high mph because of traction, suspension and slicks with get you there, in a light car.

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMs1eeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as reliability. I'd take the car to a "VERY COMPETENT" tuner with knowledge of finicky setups like a OEM b16 or D-series.</TD></TR></TABLE>

300 whp B16 aren't difficult, they have plenty of bore and breathe well. 300 whp D16 can work you, primarily if they still have stock cam. A lot of the D16 turbo ninjas really are ninjas, IMO.

HiProfile

Most 18-20 yr old cars barely pass emissions, and you're expecting it to hit 11's. Think about it.

The main problem I see isnt the parts, its how they'll be (ab)used. Unless you have experience drag racing, you're bound to break something with your 1st attempt on slicks.

With 700cc+ injectors and a good pump, 450whp is possible when it's built. I've seen a few people hit 11's with around 300whp. FYI That Epic Civic did low 11's on a stock D16Z6 at ~380whp, but that guy has experience, and got lucky with the motor. Real lucky.

Civic89stdB16

My b16 passed delaware inspection the day after it got swaped in with zero's accross the board. The guy's a DMV said they never had a car in the 25 years he has been working the pass that clean. I have a good amount of drag racing experience and the cars going to be tuned by John Kerr AKA J-K-Tuning in carslile, pa. Keep in mind im not just slapping this on a stock b16 im also putting in gsr cams, blox ajustable cam gears, have a aem ajustable fpr, old skunk 2 intake manifold, 65mm pp tb, I decided on 780cc peak and hold injectors, arp head studs, cometic hg and this will be in my std 89 hatchy. The ys1 b16 trans is getting a obx lsd and new carbon coated syncros. Keep in mind this motor is one of the strongest runningJDM b16's ive seen.

97_coupe

I always thought that the IM on a B16 was actually very good. I have seen a lot of people on HT making 400WHP+ on stock IM's. Am I wrong at this? Do you really gain a lot more thats worth the money upgrading?

tony413

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always thought that the IM on a B16 was actually very good. I have seen a lot of people on HT making 400WHP+ on stock IM's. Am I wrong at this? Do you really gain a lot more thats worth the money upgrading?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the stock B16 and type-r intake manifolds are good. most people just switch to the edelbrock when they go FI because of the plenum size and shorter runners that help out at high rpms ( 7+)

Civic89stdB16

i got the old school skunk 2 im for free. so im going to use it.

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always thought that the IM on a B16 was actually very good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The OBD0 B16 is a lot less fluent than the OBD1+ B16. The OBD1+ B16 IM is merely okay... you still want ITR+ for anything NA or a bigger than T3/T04E turbo build.

CRXminiZ

I dont know of all this talk about 20 year old motors... I have a B16 out of an XSI with the OBD1 PR3 ecu... going turbo soon, and it was said to have 44K for milage and 180ish compression across the board... whats age have to do with it, as long as it hasnt been beaten on... some guy hit 407 on a stock bottom end B16... as for the psi... look at cfm... you could have two turbos make the same power, one pumping twice as hard as the other to hit the mark, size DOSE matter! 10psi out of a gt40r isnt the same as 10 out of an 16g.... give it a good tune up, boost it, tune it, and watch it live a happy an long life! 11... thats between you and the car.

CoreyR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The OBD0 B16 is a lot less fluent than the OBD1+ B16. The OBD1+ B16 IM is merely okay... you still want ITR+ for anything NA or a bigger than T3/T04E turbo build.</TD></TR></TABLE>

JD, the OP has an xsi B16 which is an OBD1 B16 out of the JDM DA integra 92/93 years. its the same as any OBD1 B16a out of the EG chassis only it has a cable tranny attached to it.

Civic89stdB16

thats what i have a obd1 xsi b16 with the ys1 cable trans with short gears. The turbo is a 57 trim t3/t4 50/63 and 10psi will be good enough. I hope to get 300whp or close. Will push 13psi in third on up at the track. I just cant wait until its done. My 20 year old motor pulls harder than my friends 89 hatch with a 00 civic si b16 motor. We have the same trans. So for the old motor thing is just on how its taken care of. I wouldn't trade mine for any other stock b16 from a jdm importer.

zex_cool

i jst made 250whp on 7psi with the 57trim. with 10psi you should be very close to 300.
i was planning for 12psi but i forgot my stupid boost controller.

Civic89stdB16

that sucks what r u tuning with. im going neptune.

zex_cool

yeah, i know. ill go back when i get more money and see what 12psi does.

im using eCtune.

Civic89stdB16

why dont u just get a boost selonoid for that and have it crank to 12psi when u get in trird gear and up.

zex_cool

haha everyone seems to be saying that. ill get to it eventually, but for now ill stick to manual.