ShinsenTuner

iTrader: (1)

How's the seal with the MyHondaHabit gasket kit and the Moroso pan (I assume 20911?) - I'm considering the same gasket setup. My OEM one definitely "swells" a bit with this pan...

Nice build otherwise. Looks clean.

boosted94gsr

9TechNine9

Hmmm. Thanks for the replies, I'm going to look at my options. My fan is going to take up a considerable amount of space where I would need to run the piping to reach down there.

Yeah that's the one. I love them both. Check out my running log for more details on the install and review. Wouldn't ever get another rubber oil pan gasket again. I originally went with the Moroso because my pan was warped pretty bad. However, I know this pan isn't for everyone mostly based on the location of the oil drain. For most applications it's better to just put your drain where you need it but it's worked out for me so far and is one of the reasons I'm running the compressor towards the drivers side - to allow for a more direct oil drain. Hell I guess you could even tap a different spot on this pan too and leave a plug in the factory drain spot.


Sidenote, I picked up my gouged radiator from my old place today and realized I had some fan mounts still on there. Hoping they will fit my new setup.

2x0

It's too bad your WG flange is oriented like that. On mine they angled it towards the block, so the dump tube goes between the block and the downpipe keeping clearance for the radiator. I don't have any pics showing the dump tube but you get the idea.

9TechNine9

I was able to weave the dump tube towards the t-casing. I'm at a crossroads - I could either just pretty much run more tube straight down and be done, or I can try to recirculate it. I really want to do a recirculated dump tube. I'm including a picture below with a red circle showing where I want to route back into the down pipe.

I'm running the dump pipe like 1/2inch close alongside the down pipe. From my understanding, I want to angle the dump pipe as parallel to the down pipe as possible(like 15-30 degree angle connection), and not run it perpendicular (90 degree)?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

More like 15*. And you want that further down along the downpipe before transitioning into it, not at the bend of the downpipe.

Open dump results in faster boost recovery, and fewer issues with turbulence. Reber, you don't hear it, until you reach tester boost pressure when the gate has to vent. Otherwise, it's as though it was closed anyway.

9TechNine9

So basically before my flex pipe is the most optimal spot? The only reason I want to do a recirculated dump is to hear that sweet turbo whistle instead of basically a giant exhaust leak when its open. I might just forego the recirculated dump this time and go with the open dump, seems like its over my head at this point. Could you explain boost recovery a bit? Quick google search didnt do me any good.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

It's basically having the compressor wheel quickly regain it's momentum from exhaust gases in-between shifts.

Google search fails when it comes to turbochargers..

LightningTeg

Open dumps are nice for performance reasons but I think I will go back to a recirc for the reason you mentioned above. Its generally all you can hear once the thing gets going lol

Balor_Gr

Open dumps are for VW and the rest european cars. We have an engine that likes you to know its there.
Hondas sound great on recirc wg setup or full savage uppipe.
Im thinking of getting very silence on the exhaust side(cops...) and weld a china 60mm wastegete on the start/first elbow of the downpipe after the turbo.
You can even make it "uppipe" with the safeness of noone droping rocks into your turbo.
Make it to open only close to full boost for the times you like to make some noise, plus it will relieve the exhaust from gasses too lowering after turbo backpressure.
These 60mm wastegates flow very very big numbers.


I know its ricey AS FUARK but who cares. Men growing up is just an illusion.

9TechNine9

Wouldn't that cause major turbulence having both those wastegates right next to the turbo??

Anyways, you guys are making me want to recirc it... god I can't decide.. I guess you'll see today what I end up going with. I'm thinking I should have everything welded in the next day or 2 so I can send my down pipe, dump pipe and manifold to my friend to get ceramic coated. I ordered a bunch of parts last night - mostly new intercooler couplers and t bolt clamps. My couplers had residue in them and a couple clamps are rusted shut. I decided on this K&N air filter (RU-5111). Any input on my filter choice?

Also I was looking up plugs last night and what I should be running. Right now I know I have Iridiums but no clue what heat range or model. From my research people are using the NGK BKR7E-11's? I'd like to use Iridium over coppers though. While were on this sort of topic I guess I'll state that I'm using Castrol Edge 5w30 full sythnetic. Also what are you guys running for tranny fluid??

2x0

My vote is for open dump. Mine doesn't bother me at all, just sounds like you popped VTEC hard

2x0

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You're overcomplicating things. You have to experience it first before you can even tell yourself that re-circulation is the route you plan to go. You have the right length for an open dump right now. Just try it out after tuning. You can always recirculate it later, like I did. (Which then made me go back to open dump.. Much easier to deal with)

As for the plugs. Use the coppers until you complete the tuning, then switch to the iridiums. You can always cross-reference the copper, with its iridium equivalent from NGK/Denso. But you have the right part number to start off with.

Transmission fluid is determined by what components are in the transmission, so there's not a "favorite" or "best".

OEM transmissions with OEM components and OEM LSDs love OEM MTF, or GM Syncromesh
Some Aftermarket Helical LSDs use Torco MTF to start off, then possibly OEM MTF
Aftermarket clutch-type LSDs can use Kaaz GRade level 5, Gear X, or Motul 90PA w/ a Redline friction modifyer

9TechNine9

After some long thought, that's exactly the conclusion I came to. I went with the open dump. I also had to reroute it a little bit because it was too close for comfort to the down pipe. I have the materials and tools to go recirc later down the road if I want to. I'll grab some of those copper NGK's for the tune and I will stick with Honda OEM MTF. Thanks!

I almost have the dump completely welded up, but I ran out of gas yesterday and the gf was demanding a date night. I think she's getting jealous of the teg

That exhaust is sick! Btw, I had an open dump on my last setup (which is actually what gouged my radiator..) and it wasn't obnoxious, just wasn't preferred.

9TechNine9

I finished welding things together today. The dump pipe turned out pretty ugly.. It was hard to get a straight line on that 1.5" tubing. The down pipe turned out much better, probably because I did it last. My welding skills really improved over the course of this project. Some of the areas I improved in most - using the right settings in the right situation, and technique, in which I learned how to get a much better weld on flanges.







Look at the difference in the welds!

2x0

Looks awesome!

Here's to you teaching yourself how to weld

9TechNine9

Cheers!

I'm feeling a lot better and less stressed now that the hard part is over. I think I'm on track to be ready for my tune, just small things here and there left.

Balor_Gr

Anoter idea could be a tiny wg silencer/muffler



It will not be silenced but it will make different noise

9TechNine9

I've run into a few small issues. There are 3 vacuum hoses to my boost control solenoid - 1 goes to the top of the wastegate, one goes to the side of the wastegate and one (used to) go to the compressor of the turbo. I don't have a fitting on this turbo for a vacuum line, does that mean I will have to pull vacuum from the intake manifold for that hose?

Another small issue that I've had for awhile and never figured out, my boost gauge rests at -10psi. It didn't always do this. I replaced the dash awhile back and ever since it has read -10psi of what it should actually read out. I've checked connections and tubing, but to no avail. Any idea why it's doing this?



I made some quick little brackets to mount the fan with.



I got a text from my powdercoating guy a few days ago that the parts are finished being cerakoted. I'll pick them up tomorrow I think and then reassembly should start.

2x0

Honestly if it's just a mechanical boost gauge, looks like it's broken =\

I would definitely take the 3rd vac line from the intake manifold for the boost controller, not from the compressor housing.

Looks like some good progress being made

Balor_Gr

Beauty.

9TechNine9

I just realized it's a mechanical gauge.. yeah it's probably done for then. I'll have to scoop another when I add oil temp/pressure and oil cooler setup. I've gotten more done than I can show for. Mostly I've been straightening out all the orders I have placed for parts, just going through everything and making sure I have it all covered and that there will be no issues come dyno day. I'm currently sourcing another battery since the one I have is pretty toast from being stored and not trickle charged for the past few years.. Is it ok to run a splitter of some sort on an existing vacuum line or do I have to tap the intake manifold?

My powdercoating buddy is the MAN. Check these out.
I put in the elbow grease but he did a really good job powdercoating them. Metallic charcoal. Freshest set of blades ever.

2x0

LightningTeg

Wheels look goood