thumper64

I'm looking to buy some shelf pistons and I know SRP is like the budget line of JE. Does anyone know if there's a difference between how they are made? If it comes down to it, I'll get the JE. If the SRP are exactly the same, I may as well save like $100.

b20beast83

i run srp on my b16a 14psi t3 t4 60trim turbo

good results

you should post your goals

blackeg

last time i checked, there wasnt much of a price gap anymore.

i can remember when you could get srp pistons for like 350-380 and je's were in the low 400 dollar range

doesnt the srp line run more silicone which enables you to run tighter ptw tolerances due to less piston expansion...

non-VTEC

yes.....the srp's work well but the JE's will probably take more power/abuse.

thumper64

This is going to be a daily driver, not a drag car. I'm only looking to make about 250hp, but I'll stop before that if I am risking damage. I'll be running a GSR block and head, LS crank, a Turbonetics T3/T4, and aiming for around 9.5:1 compression, so I'm looking at the -6.6cc dish pistons and with minor surfacing of the head and block (just to be safe) I'll be at 9.4-9.6

The car will be a daily driver, so I want to keep it reliable and good on gas, but be able to make some power when I need it on the interstate. And still get around town alright.

sanman000719

so if you only want 250hp and its a dailey driver why even mess with the stock block just add the power adders and tune it. We have proven over the last year that stock blocks do great, and last as well.

K7-1Ktrevor

dude 250 whp is no problem at all on a stock gsr. spend that money on getting s300 and a good tune. no need to mess with a well assembled oem honda motor.

B16Civic93

250whp like mentioned above is easily achieved on a stock block gsr. all you need to do is check to make sure the motor is healthy, you can do so by doing a compression or leakdown test. if you would like the extra assurance by putting in forged pistons/rods then i would say to spend the extra couple bucks and get the je's thats what i have, they will withstand more power/abuse. i was told that the piston skirts have a coating on them that allows them to have less drag on the cylinder walls, but dont hold me to that.

if i were in your situation, i would check the block to make sure its healthy, if everything checks out, i would put the money your saving into a nice equal length manifold and getting a good tune. hope this helps

thumper64

I don't have a motor together right now. I had what I thought was a stock GSR, but it had like 11:1 forged pistons and rods, and I cracked a ring land, blah blah blah got a different block.... So I've got the rods and I figure spending the extra now would let me move up higher later if I want, and I don't want to blow up another motor. I'll save and get a good tune, again, another thing I can't see skimping on.

non-VTEC

srp's will work well for that power level. just make sure you have it tuned.

90blackcrx

I was informed srp is a softer piston, for the extra $100 or so I'd just get the JE's .

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

srp pistons have a high silicon content which means they expand slower and less than that of the je's both are made by je. for 250whp stock are fine but if you want to go forged then get the srp's. Im running them in my gsr and the've held up very nicely

fishieman

I second that.

My latest project.
251 whp/ 185 lbs on stock block gsr with 60 trim on 6 psi.
Tuned on Crome.

Mr Tickle

Link to 250whp stock gsr's please?

blackeg

my friends gsr that i tuned made 300hp on 8.5 psi. it lasted over a year at that while running hot the entire time. **** i had an ls that held 240 something hp for over a year and like 13k miles. it had 215k miles on it when i boosted it. in the process the thermostat went and so did my wideband causing me to run afr's in the high 13s in boost. the motor still had like 170psi compression when i swapped it out.


decent tuning and a well set up turbo kit will hold for a long time on a stock b series as long as your not a dick beating and not maintaining it

thumper64

This has got to last more than a year, which is why I'm trying to do it right the first time. I'm not expecting 300k miles, but I'm hoping for better than a built all motor engine...

I'm pleased to see how little boost it will take. I plan on getting a bigger radiator, wrapping my manifold, etc. I know the lubrication system is going to be key, so oil cooler, full syn oil after break in...

crvek9

je and srp pistons r the same ftw

nihad

iTrader: (2)

Mahle are the best period

crvek9

mahle r good but cp and arias r the absolute best

thumper64

well, I got my SRP pistons. -6.6cc dish, and I'm aiming for mid to low 9:1 compression. This is going to be a daily driver and not getting a lot of boost, so I'm not dropping it a lot.

uglyasscivic

SRP pistons are made of 4032 alloy while the JE's are made of 2618. There has been some huge discussions over the years. Wiseco, CP, Manley, Arias and Ross all use 2618 alloy also. It seems that the use of 2618 is mostly used in the USA while other countries use 4032. The 2618 expansion rates are higher and the alloy is softer. The 4032 lovers call the 2618's "butter pistons" because they melt so easy. bad tuning imo. lol

blaze the chemi

The higher silicon pistons (SRP) is really good for the lower HP motors because of the tighter clearances you can get with them because they are similar to the cast pistons Honda uses. The higher silicon makes them more brittle which is why I would opt for the JE pistons if I were to go over 500 HP.

I have the SRP's in my B16 for 43K miles (17K boosted and broken in on the dyno) and used the 9.9:1 pistons (wishing I bought higher, but oh well).

Get the SRP's for your power goals especially if you get a shop to bore you out to 81.5mm to really dial in the piston-to-wall clearances. I was about 0.0035" in my build and I've been fine.

thumper64

That I didn't know. I was very curious why there were both JE and SRP shelf pistons with the same measurements as far as dish/dome and bore.

Now I'm very glad I got the cheaper of the two, besides that I got them for $300 shipped, brand new.

jdm95

i wouldnt go SRP a guy i know had a set in a B16 with a really good tune and not even a aggresive tune and melted 2 out of 4. Im sure there are going to be the nay sayers but i would spend the extra $$$ and go forged JE. May spend some more money now but better than trying to save a few bucks melt a piston and have to spend more. uglyasscivic its not because of a bad tune im running 350+ on a completely stock block daily driver very conservitive tune the B16 was running less with SRP's and they melted same tuner, theres the saying you get what you pay for and im a big believer. Either get the good stuff or dont but dont be suprised when you melt a piston.

90blackcrx

Pistons just don't melt, something had to be up with the setup.