Hulkdon1

This is a true 1995 DB8 with all the accessories (A/C, P/S and ABS) still in place. The motor currently has over 176,000 mi and still going strong. The motor is stock internally (stock pistons, rods and valves). Turbo setup was custom made by Speedfactory (Matt and Ricky). The tune was done by John Kerr of J-K Tuning. The motor made 430@18psi in 98 degree weather. The tune would have yielded more but the temps were too high.

Special thanks to:

Matt and Ricky (Speedfactory)
John Kerr (J-K Tuning)
Lonnie Boost (Hi Boost Motorsports, Port St. Lucie, FL)
Ronnie (RJ's Custom Piping)
Jerone Scott (Apprentice)
Curry (DA Man)
Jenny (The Wife)

Turbo Setup:
Ram Horn Manifold
2.5-3" DP
2.5 Charge Pipes
24x9x3" Intercooler
Tial BV
Tial MVS
Precision SC6262
1000cc Injectors
T1 Custom Catchcan
Greddy Profec B II

thundernoodle

Wow. Im impressed lol

welfarepc

its amazing what a turbo that can flow some air efficiently will do to a motor that likes to breathe

CFGS08

Damn! nice ive been looking at turbo set ups that will still work with A/C being its 25 days of 100+ here in Texas

carnot

Have you run into any issues with keeping ECTs down while running the AC full blast?

JDM IN MY SOL

Wow nice numbers! That's the inspiration I need to go back and see John for an E85 retune of 420+ on a Stock Block B16

sp00led

It looks like you don't have a filter on your turbo. Not much room between the rear mount radiator fan and inlet. Any plans to put a filter on it? If so I'd love to see what you can fab up. My setup is very similar. What size/brand fan is that? Any issues in 90-100F heat with air flow for cooling?

Hulkdon1

I do not see any room for a filter at this time. My catchcan is in the place of where a filter would probably fit.

I am currently having cooling issues if the ambient temp passes 85 degrees. I am about to make some cuts to the bumper to allow better air flow to the radiator.

The fan is a Zirgo 14" 2122cfm puller. It does a great job at idle, under full boost and around town, but on the highway at a constant cruise(65-75), the temp creeps up past half and backs off throughout a 90 mile ride. This is without the A/C running. It will do fine around town and at idle with the A/C on, but not on the highway. I was told that it's the airflow to the radiator. So, this weekend I will work on the bumper to allow more airflow.

SAXON

i bet a spal 13' pusher fan would help with temps and also help you be able to put an intake on that turbo

carnot

This sounds very familiar as I just recently tackled this problem on my turbo prelude that still has AC. I use to have a 53mm half size koyo for a radiator with a 12" puller and 8" pusher; additional 12" puller on condenser. I ran into the same symptoms you describe above and came to the following conclusions:

1. If temperatures are under control and the AC works at idle/city driving then your fans are adequately sized.
2. If temperatures are out of control and you can't use the AC on the highway the radiator is undersized.

Depending on how marginal the overheating problem is, you may be able to get away with just modifying airflow paths to the radiator as you suggest. I ended up going back to an OEM full width radiator and stock fan setup and that solved all my problems. I realize there is no way you are going to go back to a full width radiator but don't under estimate the utility of a fan shroud.....makes a huge difference in actual CFM across the heatx.

Gold DA9

Is this with the 63 or 82 housing?

Niceguycurry

I am proud of the work you did on this project. You took your time and had a lot of patience in finishing this up and look at the results....an excellent running vehicle with a killer tune. I am happy to have assisted in anyway possible and learn more about Hondas at the same time. Yes, I am the DA guy, but I was happpy to help you with your DB! Much love brother. Now, I have to test drive it to make it official! ;-)

LightningTeg

A blanket on the turbo should help to

sp00led

I added one to my setup and it definitely didn't hurt.

Your piping with the bov is much closer to the motor and radiator than my setup. Even if you moved the battery and did a catch can there you would still have charge piping pretty close to the turbo. If you had a 3" compressor inlet (versus 4") it might not be so hard to make an intake pointing up for a filter but that is less room then I have to work with. My inlet is 4" anti surge to.

Without moving or bending the hell out of my AC lines I can't run anymore diameter then a 10" pull fan. I need to setup a push 13" on the condenser. I'm not a jdm front fan but man the airflow would be nice from that bumper/grill.

I don't have issues on the highway but more so in stop/go traffic in 90F+ temps. Particularly after I've been boosting around more so then easing it. That's a little different than your symptoms but you do have a bigger pulling fan.

Are those numbers on a dynapack?

Hulkdon1

The tune was done on a dynapack.

The airflow is definitely blocked by the intercooler, and the condenser. The USDM bumper is not helping the situation. So, I will make some cuts to the bumper and remove the foam from behind it. I believe removing the foam will allow much better airflow. I will keep everyone posted.

SAXON

yes dynapack numbers, which were tested against a local mustang dyno and were nearly identical

Hulkdon1

Update: This weekend I removed the front bumper. I trimmed some of the underside of the bumper, just behind the license plate mounting holes. I also removed the bumper foam.

I took a highway ride for @100 miles, cruising @75mph. The water temp remained normal for the duration. The outside temps ranged from 93-99 degrees. I then drove around locally with the A/C on for @1hr, the water temp remained normal. I will do another highway run with the A/C on to see if all remains normal. I will update.

SQ is the SQUAD

you will come to find out that most integras them selves have these problems, ont only the boosted one. i cam across a thread on here, and old one, where like 20 people reported the same problem. thats how my lsvtec integra was. i forget what was the solution.

sp00led

Great to hear! What size/brand fan is that on that radiator (I have a SPAL 10")? I've never had issues with ECTs on the highway. It's only when I come to red lights after the motor is good and heatsoaked. I wouldn't dare turn on the AC as this only makes it worse.

I'll be honest, I'm very surprised that cutting a small part of the bumper like that and removing the foam made a difference. I'd be willing to try anything that didn't involve hacking up the bumper and hurting the appearance.

Post some pics of what you cut if you have them. I'm willing to try it.

yzracer323

iTrader: (3)

.....jk looks good

Hulkdon1

The fan is a 14" Zirgo 2122 CFM fan. There is a little trimming that has to be done in order to accommodate the placement of the turbo. I am currently pleased with the temps at this point. The temps actually go down under full boost. When the car was on the dyno, John stated that the IAT's would go down during every pass.

The trimming that I did to the bumper is not noticeable. I will post some pics of the bumper.

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

Here is a better version of the graph, just for reference.

pwebb0207

nice! 260 lb/ft from 6400 all the way to redline.

umair

nice!!pump gas?

sp00led

That makes sense. I think my setup would be fine with a 14" fan BUT there is no way I can fit one that large because of the intake design that was used for the filter. Any plans to make a filter fit on that turbo? Think it's possible?