a1320honda

So i ve got a b20b with a t3/t4 in a 94 integra in it. PLX-M300 wideband that shows mid to low 11's from 3500rpm all the way to 7k redline. But i dont think my plugs are showin the same afr's. Its on 10psi of boost and the 550's according to crome are at 84% at 7000rpm.

At part throttle the PLX is showing 13's

Heres the plugs.

Plug #3


Plug #4

CivicVX94

you compared it to this yet? how does the electrode look and how many miles/pulls are on the plugs? looks like it has carbon deposits and running too rich
[IMG] [/IMG]

FaceTuned

iTrader: (4)

you should get some more pics,
like of the threads the ground strap etc...
but when i first look at a plug i see the ground strap if this was a WOT run i would say your timing is high but i cant see the rest of the ground strap second for
A/F- i would look at the porcelain in 3 divided areas top,middle,bottom.
top idle-yours looks good the hot porcelain is burning all the deposits off if you look at the tip of the projector it should be grey
middle- cant really get a good view but seems that your cruising looks good
bottom- now this is where WOT runs come in to play this is where the porcelain meets the metal base its the fuel ring it really depends on what octane fuel your running if its just regular 92 0ct it should be a dark grey color.
get some more pics im just pointing things out i could do alot more with better pics.



Modified by FaceTuned at 8:43 PM 8/30/2007

a1320honda

These are the best pics i could get down inside, and the strap.

quicksilver1689

you want to look at the "fuel ring". looks alright to me, be worried if you see tiny metalic pieces on the insulator, almost like pepper on a white dinner plate.

quicksilver1689

plugs show your getting a good amount of fuel, they look clean which means the heatrange is working out.

a1320honda

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you want to look at the "fuel ring". looks alright to me, be worried if you see tiny metalic pieces on the insulator, almost like pepper on a white dinner plate.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i always watch for that, signs of detonation. never any signs of that. but i just wanna be sure i can trust my wideband and what its saying.

FaceTuned

iTrader: (4)

can you get a couple pics from a side view so i can see the threads and the grounds strap how much timing you running?
its seems like its to hot of a plug what plug are we reading can i get some more info.

a1320honda

Their BKR7E's gapped at .028

sohc_turd

NGKs can be kind of hard to tell sometimes especially from a pic. The flash can really doo doo things up. But from this pic, the color change either looks spot on or too close to the base of the ground strap.

It might be worth doing some plug checks at 4500-5500 rpms too, thats where i'm guessing peak charge density might accure.

Drew Peacock

Look good to me. In the first pics the marks on the very tip of the plug seem unusual you drop them or something?

FaceTuned

iTrader: (4)

from the ground strap i would back down the total timing by 2*- 4* but your plugs fuel ring looks good is there any thing else to clear you up on this.
and as long as your WB/DL is reading 12.0-11.5 and no detonation i would say good job.
maybe go with a set of 8's.
Whats your total timing?

a1320honda

im at 16* total timing at 7000rpm

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a1320honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im at 16* total timing at 7000rpm</TD></TR></TABLE>



i cant tell from the pics but that last one tells us, that you have too much timing in the engine, you want your "timing" mark to be just about the middle of the bend on the ground strap.

you need to put a fresh set in there, do a pull, let the car come back to an idle/ shut it off. remove. then take pics. get pics from the sides, so we can see how far the heat when down the threads, and from the top so we can look into the base.

FaceTuned

iTrader: (4)

from the last pic it looks like there too hot you should look into 8's
i was thinkn your total was at 17* but i was close
your fuel looks good.
but your plugs might be to hot take it down to 14* until you see the color change in the middle of the ground strap.
right now its all the way to the base thread witch means too much timing take it down a couple degrees. and you should be good to go.

blaze the chemi

Could you dremmel the threads away so we can see the porcelin center electrode? That way we can see the inside. I agree with that last pic is to pull timing away to get the burn ground strap toward the middle. Nothing really to cause alarm as of yet.

Could it be possible to take the pics outside in natural light and use the camera?

quicksilver1689

some good articles
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Sp....html
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Pl....html

PHDZINE

Remember guys...he's only running 16deg. total timing at 10 PSI. Thats not that much boost. Add a few more degrees of timing, the plugs look like your running slighly rich. I wouldn't take fuel away but I would add somemore timing. Wouldn't hurt to gap those plugs down to maybe .026-.027. You stated that you are running low to mid 11's at 3500RPM...you could probably pull some fuel down low 3500-4500

blackeg

16* is not a lot of timing at all. i used to run around 19-20* at 10psi out of an ls motor, with a smaller bore diameter.

running too little timing can also cause excess heat in your motor. add a lil bit, do a pull and kill it at around 6000 rpms. check for detonation signs and repeat. a dyno will help too. when you stop making tq you hit max timing

Importracer_001

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaveF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


you need to put a fresh set in there, do a pull, let the car come back to an idle/ shut it off. remove. then take pics. get pics from the sides, so we can see how far the heat when down the threads, and from the top so we can look into the base.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is this the proper way when reading plugs? Or do you shut the engine off at the desired rpm where you want to read your plugs to check for detonation etc?

DeadVet

Slightly rich? No way thats a clean burn!

EASY101

I give some of you dudes mad props... this is some good info, I've learned a lot over the years just by reading all this ****. Thanks to all you gurus who make this forum what it is.

FaceTuned

iTrader: (4)

your welcome.

SOHC_MShue

where do you guys see the heat mark? I dont see anything. Usually for me to get a good read on ngk's i grind that cadmium coting off of the ground strap with a fresh set of plugs. The coating is the lighter yellowish brown colored stuff all over the ground strap. You cant hardly see it when the plugs are just out of the box, but once you run them in the motor it shows up like that.

sohc_turd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EASY101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I give some of you dudes mad props... this is some good info, I've learned a lot over the years just by reading all this ****. Thanks to all you gurus who make this forum what it is. </TD></TR></TABLE>

take it in with a grain of salt.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where do you guys see the heat mark? I dont see anything. Usually for me to get a good read on ngk's i grind that cadmium coting off of the ground strap with a fresh set of plugs. The coating is the lighter yellowish brown colored stuff all over the ground strap. You cant hardly see it when the plugs are just out of the box, but once you run them in the motor it shows up like that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

finally someone i can agree with.