Originally Posted by sameerb1

i turbo'ed my 98 H22A about 6 months ago. the list of installs was:

.63AR 57Trim Ebay t3/t4 turbo
ebay turbo tubular manifold
35mm wastegate 6psi spring
tial copy bov
2.5" custom IC and piping
Neptune Management
ID725 injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Ebay Fuel Regulator (works good)
high profile spark plugs
custom 2.5" exhaust
t1 exhaust muffler
f1 stage 3 clutch and pressure plate
12lbs flywheel

I didnt do anything on the engine...no sleeves, pistons or anything else...The engine with turbo ran but clutch slipped in a couple of pulls so got a new f1 stage 3 clutch kit with 12lbs flywheel but the guys i repaired it with tried the car on WOT "to test clutch" which made my car smoke heavy. I suspect a ring land but then i took the car out, two three WOT pulls and the car does not start anymore. the crank moves, but engine is not starting. Thus i am thinking of ripping the engine apart and building a fresh engine. thinking of following:

8.5:1 Wiseco 89mm forged pistons/ bring it up a little to 9:1creagle rods
local custom sleeve job
port & polish head/ H22 head flows well enough about 270-280cfm, no need to port, unless you just have too much money to toss away!70mm tb
skunk2 intake manifold/ if you stick with the 70mmtb just open this manifold up to match or u can also creat a reversion step to stop air from flowing backwardsI am just stuck on the following:
springs, retainers - do i need new? if yes then OEM or some branded titanium etc?/ get some aftermarket ones, supertech, rockets,skunk2, rev, ferrea are all good onesvalves - do i need new? if yes then OEM or some branded etc and do i need bigger size valves? / for what you trying to do, just stick with oem std. size valvescams - do i need camshaft?
cam gears - do i need cam gears? / stick with stock h22 cams or if the type s cams are a little more agressive then go with that, no need for big cams with the small 57 trim turbo. cams gears will be nice so if the tuner wants to adjust camgears on the dyno he can.rod bearings - do i need to buy new rod bearings or my old will do the job? / If it's not scored up bad then yes you can always resuse the old bearings, but just double check the clearences to make sure its still in spec, my advice tho is since your gonna rip it apart, just replace with new ones, OEM of course.HP goals? non...all i want is a prelude for weekends which pulls to a mustang or a camaro while i m cruising if i feel like playing / for you to hang with 5.0's and camaros, you will most likely need 350whp+ on the prelude chasis which can be easily done with the set-up you have, good luck

Originally Posted by Fliptard

Google.

Originally Posted by jdmcivic2fast

Originally Posted by sameerb1
i turbo'ed my 98 H22A about 6 months ago. the list of installs was:

.63AR 57Trim Ebay t3/t4 turbo
ebay turbo tubular manifold
35mm wastegate 6psi spring
tial copy bov
2.5" custom IC and piping
Neptune Management
ID725 injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Ebay Fuel Regulator (works good)
high profile spark plugs
custom 2.5" exhaust
t1 exhaust muffler
f1 stage 3 clutch and pressure plate
12lbs flywheel

I didnt do anything on the engine...no sleeves, pistons or anything else...The engine with turbo ran but clutch slipped in a couple of pulls so got a new f1 stage 3 clutch kit with 12lbs flywheel but the guys i repaired it with tried the car on WOT "to test clutch" which made my car smoke heavy. I suspect a ring land but then i took the car out, two three WOT pulls and the car does not start anymore. the crank moves, but engine is not starting. Thus i am thinking of ripping the engine apart and building a fresh engine. thinking of following:

8.5:1 Wiseco 89mm forged pistons/ bring it up a little to 9:1creagle rods
local custom sleeve job
port & polish head/ H22 head flows well enough about 270-280cfm, no need to port, unless you just have too much money to toss away!70mm tb
skunk2 intake manifold/ if you stick with the 70mmtb just open this manifold up to match or u can also creat a reversion step to stop air from flowing backwardsI am just stuck on the following:
springs, retainers - do i need new? if yes then OEM or some branded titanium etc?/ get some aftermarket ones, supertech, rockets,skunk2, rev, ferrea are all good onesvalves - do i need new? if yes then OEM or some branded etc and do i need bigger size valves? / for what you trying to do, just stick with oem std. size valvescams - do i need camshaft?
cam gears - do i need cam gears? / stick with stock h22 cams or if the type s cams are a little more agressive then go with that, no need for big cams with the small 57 trim turbo. cams gears will be nice so if the tuner wants to adjust camgears on the dyno he can.rod bearings - do i need to buy new rod bearings or my old will do the job? / If it's not scored up bad then yes you can always resuse the old bearings, but just double check the clearences to make sure its still in spec, my advice tho is since your gonna rip it apart, just replace with new ones, OEM of course.HP goals? non...all i want is a prelude for weekends which pulls to a mustang or a camaro while i m cruising if i feel like playing / for you to hang with 5.0's and camaros, you will most likely need 350whp+ on the prelude chasis which can be easily done with the set-up you have, good luck

Originally Posted by Fliptard

Google.

Originally Posted by sameerb1

I dont know why big fuss about ebay turbos as i m not using ebay turbos for the first time. my rule is, i will blow a greddy turbo in 2 years buying it for $800 or i will blow 4 ebay turbos in 2 years buying it for $200 every time. my end cost will be same but my investment will be in installments and it gives me to spend on other stuff in the meantime.

Other than the ebay turbo, can we talk about my build and parts?

Originally Posted by sameerb1

I didnt do anything on the engine...no sleeves, pistons or anything else...The engine with turbo ran but clutch slipped in a couple of pulls so got a new f1 stage 3 clutch kit with 12lbs flywheel but the guys i repaired it with tried the car on WOT "to test clutch" which made my car smoke heavy. I suspect a ring land but then i took the car out, two three WOT pulls and the car does not start anymore. the crank moves, but engine is not starting. Thus i am thinking of ripping the engine apart and building a fresh engine. thinking of following:

Originally Posted by TheShodan

That means you're doing something wrong with your installs if you're going through turbos like that, sorry to say. If you know you'll blow an $800 quality turbo, then its because you're not paying attention

Other than that, get above 9.0:1 compression please. Don't use the "but I'll make more boost" argument. doesn't work.

Springs and retainers= yes
Titanium = sure, why not? The myth that titanium wears on components too prematurely is just that.. a myth. its because people are running too high a spring seat pressure when installing.

Type S cams are fine for turbo, no need for cam gears unless changing cams. No need for cams on a 57 trim "ebay" turbo

IF you ever "Build" an engine, you use new bearings. Stop trying to reuse old engine internal parts like that