SinglecamMitch

My car runs fine with the stock ecu and injectors with my d15b turbo. But when i plug in my p28 chipped and tuned with chrome and the 450cc it barley even starts and when it does it throws a solid code. It seems to miss when i try to rev it to keep it alive and i dont know what it is.... Ive replaced me o2 sensor, iac, map, resistor box, the chip in my ecu, ive tried a different ecu, rewired the resistor box and a new rotor, cap, ignightor, and coil, and a new fpr, and fuel filter no blown fuses and its running super rich, still no luck... Ive done this over a 5 day period and i gave up this is my daily driver and im located in madison area if anybody wants to c it i would appreciate it very much any thoughts would be very helpful... Thanks a lot please if you read this post put in your input cuz i have tried all i can think of and im up for any solutions. Thanks Mitch

Archidictus

Did it ever run at all on the "tuned" ECU or is your experience that it has never worked well and completely sucks? If that's the case, your tune is shitty and/or you aren't using the proper basemap to start the car so that you can get the thing tuned. If you're trying to run a "pre-tuned" map, don't. Get the proper basemap from PGMFI.org or whatever, get the car started and get it tuned properly.

Also, you'll get better information on this issue in the Forced Induction forum, which is where you should have posted it in the first place.

igo4bmx

maybe the soldering job sucks or not completed installed correctly

SinglecamMitch

all the soldering is good but should my car run good with the stock obd1 injectors and a resistor box?!?!

SinglecamMitch

ran fine on the chipped ecu but just died one night... im goin with a shitty tune for now cuz it was runnin a lil rich... im gunna try cuttin j1 tomorrow to c if that will help me out at all....

Jim Truett

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SinglecamMitch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all the soldering is good but should my car run good with the stock obd1 injectors and a resistor box?!?!</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, the resistance would be too high. The problem most likely lies in your ECU, or more specifically the program you have on the chip. If you have a solid CEL you have a major wiring issue or a bad .bin file. Make another basemap and try again.

94ex-vtec

A solid CEL code means THERE IS a problem with the ECU. That could be power, a blown ECU fuse, bad wiring as sated above, or a bad chip. Did it throw that code when you used another ECU?? that would be good to know. you have to be very carefull with ECU's, i just did a mini-me d15b8/z6, so i bought an EX wiring harness to make things go smooth. Hooked everyhthing back up and the the ECU gets the **** fried out of it. Bad wiring harness. DO you know how to use a wire to make a jumper and check your CEL codes?? Try that, and look up the CEL code references. your Check engine light will flash according to the specific CEL code.

SinglecamMitch

yea i know how to check for cel and its a solid code... all my fuses are fine cuz the car runs like a champ with the stock ecu and injectors but im baffled by the obd1 injectors working with the resistor box still... ive done resistance test on the injector wiring and they all pull out the right amount of resistance...( like 6 ohms er something) i dont know what i should do now i wanna cut the j1 in the ecu to try to find out if its my chip or soldering... Thanks again to all the people who posted on my thread any help is great help to me even if i have already done it..

SinglecamMitch

SOmebody help me.... I got a frickin honda tatoo on my chest so i need to fix my car...

SinglecamMitch

Help me please if you read this then please throw your input out there no matter what level you are i need something to go by...

SinglecamMitch

morning bump still need some help...

SinglecamMitch

i did the j1 snip and the car ran great checked all the solder joints and they look good so im gunna go with a bad chip...

BlackCRX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SinglecamMitch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did the j1 snip and the car ran great checked all the solder joints and they look good so im gunna go with a bad chip...</TD></TR></TABLE>

what injectors did you have in there when you used snipped J1?

solid cel is usually a bad chip/burn/ecu

coneheadsracing

If your car runs fine with the resistor box, assuming your car never had one stock, and it runs like *** on the 450's, i'd say the resistor box isn't wired up right.

Other option, you aren't selecting something right in the misc section, i think thats where its at, depending on your program, or like was said, your soildering sucks. I had a solid cel, and my car wouldn't run worth a crap, went over my joints again and it cleared it up. Also, did have something selected right, and had a cel, but it ran okay.

SinglecamMitch

the stock injectors were in it so thats why it ran so good... goin in for a good tune tomorrow...yay!!

colinproctor

would like to know what is going on here as well. i dont think its a bad ECU or chip.

colinproctor

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moops vs moors &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try jumping it and pulling whatever code is being displayed?


crome can be sketchy sometimes, try getting it on a dyno and get the latest crome update.</TD></TR></TABLE>

he said solid code. check engine light just stays on no matter if you hook up the jumper or not.

SOHC_MShue

So you've tried different chipped ecus? It may just be a problem with the settings in crome. If you want i can make you a basemap with the right settings in crome that should work well enough to get the car started without a solid cel.