seelback

post pics, im sure people interested would like to se pics of the turbo.

tron_

Speaking of turbos for sale, I'm selling a Bullseye T3/TO4E 57 trim:

http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=3159543

89civicsi*

1994 civic si hb
d16z6 s20 trans on 15psi
eagle rods
vitara pistons
stock valves
bisi boost cam 1.5
bizi moto cam gear
ebay .60 trim .57 a/r
tail 38mm w/g
walbaro 255lph
rc 750s
gm 3 bar map
aem fuel pressure regulator
2.5 down pipe
blox boost.. blox oil press ..n aem wide band also
.....ran 14.003. 1/4 mi on three cylinders on street tires...bad valve cover gasket blew oil in the spark plug tube....also ripped motor mount bolts out from under tha cam gear..:

this year thou same base set up..but
got bigger ebay ball bearing turbo. .60 trim .63 a/r
3in down pipe..!
new intercooler tubing
hks ssqv bov
n rc 1000 cc inj
LSD!..just finished puting it in..
hopefully a tune not just a base map

old setup in picture!

PunchedGuava

Question about SOHC boosting...

I'm on a D16Y8, and it's quiet high mileage (183k) and I was thinking about going turbo. Is it a good idea on a motor with that many miles? I had it compression tested and the numbers were good. Transmission seems ok, with possible clutch work ahead. Other than that, things seem alright. Is it a good idea for me to turbo it? Would I have to build internals or can I go on low boost without touching the internals? If I'm going to have to go inside, what are the costs like? And would I just be better off going DOHC when I get more cash?

Jimster480

yea you should be okay for 200WHP on your stock internals

PunchedGuava

I see, thanks! Now, onto how I should go about the build... any suggestions? I'v been reading through this thread and most people are getting inside the engine, but I'm a bit restricted financially go that in depth, and with you saying I'll be okay on stock internals, I won't need to build the internals. Any place you guys recommend for a turbo kit? Not eBay, of course. I saw the edelbrock turbo kit, but that is mad expensive and says it will make around 175HP. I'm hoping to reach 200HP. Also, how much boost can the stock Y8 handle?

Boosting my D was something I've always pondered about, but now I think I might actually do it... this thread has given me the motivation I needed.

Jimster480

You can actually build quite a reliable basic turbo kit from ebay parts, I just wouldn't recommend an ebay turbo itself, been there and done that and typically they are not good.

But I have a JDMSport Log Manifold and a Knockoff HKS BoV with a Tial Copy WG (You cant really get these ones anymore) and it works great for the last years. I'm going to be upgrading the BOV to a Tial Q becuase I'm going on alot of boost soon and already on 22 the BOV is struggling. But my intercooler is also JDMSport and it does just fine!

Since you arent doing high power I recommend getting a Toyota CE17 or a DSM 18g/16g or IHI Equivilant. There are plenty of small turbos floating around, like GT28RS from RB25/SR20 (GT26) and those will also work for your application.

PunchedGuava

Thanks for the info, and wow! that turbo is expensive! lol

My biggest dilemma is emissions. I'm in California and the emissions is bullshit over here. Is there a legal way to go about turbocharging? I've already been pulled over a number of times for exhaust and if I go turbo, there really isn't anything keeping the cops from checking under the hood. When it comes down to it, all they really need is "probable cause."

DelSolMike

iTrader: (1)

There are CARB legal kits.

KevinEF7

PunchedGuava

The only ones I've seen are the Edelbrock kit and the Greddy. But I don't think they make the Greddy kit for the Y8 anymore. As far as Edelbrock goes, it's nearly $5k for the kit... that's way out of my price range. Is there no other alternative to stay carb legal and boost?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Greddy is no longer made
Neither is the edelbrock kit

PunchedGuava

So there is no legit way to go about this in Cali?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

No not really. You could always get the car BARd

Of course people make copies of the greddy carb sticker. If you can get one just put it on the chargepiping or where ever and the ref is none the wiser

PunchedGuava

I plan on keeping the car a good while, so getting it BAR'd would be ideal. I've already had issues with cops and I'm pretty much stock. I'm terrified to go get it BAR'd with a turbo setup, I'm nowhere near knowledgable on what needs be to pass. More research, I guess. I seriously spite California... no fun at all!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

That's why if I ever move to cali I'll keep my car registered in Georgia. Then they cant give me **** and it would be worth the drive/shipping the car to avoid their CARB bs

golden nugget

finally got her all bolted up and running i used the amsoil break in sae 30. now i just need to know how to seat my rings please can any one explain to me on how to seat the rings properly this my first built

Jimster480

so.. Got a question here...
I bought a D16Y7 with a Z6 crank and some "Eagle I beam Rods" and Vitara Pistons for $450. I noticed when I was putting it in, that it had some interesting rod bolts... Well after getting my ignition fixed, a couple trips past 7k rpm and spun bearing #1. Caught it and pulled it out thankfully, but I bought some ARP rod bolts to replace the derp ones, so this doesnt happen again. Well the rod bolts hit the girdle... my father reassembled the bottom without turning the motor over once and I tried to start it and cracked the girdle...

How the hell does this happen. How can the rod bolts hit the girdle? Am I supposed to shave/notch the girdle? I have another girdle but can I take it off while the motor is in the car and replace it? and how could I shave it so that it works.... I dont even understand how the fk this happens...

KevinEF7

You dont "catch" a spun bearing, it either spun and the crank and cap needs work or it didnt

Not turning the motor over even half a revolution the stand?? Tisk tisk. I dont get how you set tdc on the belt without turning the motor over though...

There should be no girdle shaving, arp2000 bolts? I have I beams with arp2000 bolts and I dont even think it was close to the girdle or both my z6 or my a6

Jimster480

yea I have ARP2000 Bolts. And yes you hear that it spun... It has no wear on either side. I did this already on my stock 96 Civic and its completely fine. Most people thikn that the second that it spins it gets completely out of shape. Most of the time this is incorrect.

WE checked the crank and there is no shaving or scratches. The bearing had wear where it had contact originally so we changed it. But yes the bolts hit the girdle... I've never seen this before. And yes we did half a revolution and it was fine, its when you go beyond a half that it hits. Apparently he didnt turn it past the half.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Girdle and sleeve have to be notched for rods...

nealnanoHX

Any boosted D16Y5's out there? Just wanted to see if anyone has done it successfully and made good power with the Vtec-E motor.

Jimster480

thats what a fcking thought... I wonder if the block is notched, I didnt notice it, but its not hitting there.. It would be hitting from the start wouldnt it? I heard that you do not have to notch for certain I beams? Because I notched it before for my old H-beams but I didnt build this motor and I havent had I beams before.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The bottom of the sleeves have to be notched for any rod due to clearance. It's common practice to notch the girdle as most aftermarket rods will have issues with the rod bolts hitting the girdle

What did you notch at the start?

It should hit from the beginning on the engine stand. I don't know how you didnt need to turn the motor over by hand during assembly but if you had you'd see the problem right away

Jimster480

Yea that is what I thought. I didn't notch anything because I didn't build this motor. I bought it from a guy who had it built by another shop and then didn't put it in his car properly and decided to part it out. So I picked it up basically brand new (1mi) on it for $450. When I was putting it in my car and swapping my oil pan on here I noticed it had some weird rod bolts. They turned out to be **** hardware store bolts.

So I picked up some ARP 2000 in the right size, after I spun bearing #1 on a 3rd gear pull @ 22PSI. I felt retarded for not just changing them out originally when I thought they were suspicious. So I opend the bottom and we changed them out to the ARP 2000, my dad told me he would finish assembling it as I went to drop off my other civic back at my house and apparently he didnt do a full turn on the motor before putting it back together. So I came back and tried to start it and it locked up right away as it was basically sitting on the girdle.

Any idea on how much I need to notch it now? And can I drop the girdle off the motor while its assembled? I've never done something like that before.. I just really do not have time to take this **** back out of the car and disassemble it. I'm way too busy with work...