So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!!
#1
So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?!
Well I thought I had my problem licked but i was wrong. I swapped the blue box out and ran the car hard all day and no problem well I take a buddy for a ride last week and BAM rev limiter after running the car hard 4.8-5k . It only happens when I run up to say 9k rpm and boost it hard sometimes it will bring my revs all the way back down when I am at 9k or so and slowly bring me down. It will go away after shutting the car off and restarting it until I run it hard agin. ARRRG! I am frustated! These are my old threads on it
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=637265
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=643736
HELP!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=637265
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=643736
HELP!
#2
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Boostfed)
What sucks is I was gonna run my car this weekend at MIR then go to Imports VS Domestics next weekend! Anyone have ideas?
#4
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Jared)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you tried another hondata ecu?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not yet that is my NEXT thing I am trying. Hopefully that is it and I can just get a cheap P28 and use that then.
Not yet that is my NEXT thing I am trying. Hopefully that is it and I can just get a cheap P28 and use that then.
#5
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Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Boostfed)
I have experienced similar problems that you have described. Only seemed to occur under boost/wot and at higher RPM. Car acts like it hit boost cut. Will give me temp. CEL until revs have dropped, but store no code. After this occurs, the car drives and behaves as though the TPS has been unplugged. I have poured over datalogs of this happening, and nothing stands out. Datalog shows as if throttle was snapped shut, map goes to ambient....
I first suspected the proximity of the ignition box (mounted under the dash), and even intermitent wiring problems between the ECU and MAP/TPS sensors. All checked out fine via the multimeter, and all connections are now soldered.
I believe I have narrowed it down to the eeprom socket in the ecu. Being that I do not have an emulator I have been removing/replacing the eeprom every time I change the tune. Over time the socket has become worn. I have found that even if you get a solid red led on the interface box indicating a good connection, it may not be good enough to remain stable under high revs. (read: vibration)
My temp solution until I solder in a Ziff socket with a lever (dont know the technical name for this), is to very gently bend the pins of the eeprom out. When the eeprom is socketed, it creates more pressure between the eeprom pins and the socket. Since I have been doing this (4weeks and about 30 tune changes) I have not experienced any rev cuts.
As a test, I socketed one of my older eeproms where the pins were straight, and I was able to get a rev cut on the first WOT run.
On a side note, I was chipping a friends NA B16, and we experienced the same thing when we tried a high rpm run. Loose eeproms dont like vibration
We resocketed, and everything was fine.
FYI, on a few occasions the eeprom required a reburn before being resocketed.
Also wondering what speed is your eeprom? What are all the #'s on the back?
HTH,
Dave
Pics to come....
I first suspected the proximity of the ignition box (mounted under the dash), and even intermitent wiring problems between the ECU and MAP/TPS sensors. All checked out fine via the multimeter, and all connections are now soldered.
I believe I have narrowed it down to the eeprom socket in the ecu. Being that I do not have an emulator I have been removing/replacing the eeprom every time I change the tune. Over time the socket has become worn. I have found that even if you get a solid red led on the interface box indicating a good connection, it may not be good enough to remain stable under high revs. (read: vibration)
My temp solution until I solder in a Ziff socket with a lever (dont know the technical name for this), is to very gently bend the pins of the eeprom out. When the eeprom is socketed, it creates more pressure between the eeprom pins and the socket. Since I have been doing this (4weeks and about 30 tune changes) I have not experienced any rev cuts.
As a test, I socketed one of my older eeproms where the pins were straight, and I was able to get a rev cut on the first WOT run.
On a side note, I was chipping a friends NA B16, and we experienced the same thing when we tried a high rpm run. Loose eeproms dont like vibration
We resocketed, and everything was fine.
FYI, on a few occasions the eeprom required a reburn before being resocketed.
Also wondering what speed is your eeprom? What are all the #'s on the back?
HTH,
Dave
Pics to come....
#6
What is this crap?
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (leed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Loose eeproms dont like vibration
We resocketed, and everything was fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
here is what i have learned:
<FONT SIZE="3"> <FONT COLOR="red">cheap tin "dual wipe" sockets = bad</FONT></FONT>
<FONT SIZE="3"> <FONT COLOR="green">gold / brass barrel type sockets = good </FONT></FONT>
you might pay as much as 40 cents more for the good sockets. but you wont have issues.
We resocketed, and everything was fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
here is what i have learned:
<FONT SIZE="3"> <FONT COLOR="red">cheap tin "dual wipe" sockets = bad</FONT></FONT>
<FONT SIZE="3"> <FONT COLOR="green">gold / brass barrel type sockets = good </FONT></FONT>
you might pay as much as 40 cents more for the good sockets. but you wont have issues.
#7
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Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (falconGSR)
Exactly the pics I was looking for
I indeed have the duel wipe sockets. They blow.
I indeed have the duel wipe sockets. They blow.
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#8
What is this crap?
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (leed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Exactly the pics I was looking for
I indeed have the duel wipe sockets. They blow.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
they've wasted a few hours of my life troubleshooting some of my home projects. its gold for me when it comes to dip sockets.
I indeed have the duel wipe sockets. They blow.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
they've wasted a few hours of my life troubleshooting some of my home projects. its gold for me when it comes to dip sockets.
#9
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Boostfed)
i experienced the same problem. do you have a clutch switch option? mine will do the same thing but if i unplug the clutch switch,problem goes away??not sure why though.
#10
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (crx1856)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx1856 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i experienced the same problem. do you have a clutch switch option? mine will do the same thing but if i unplug the clutch switch,problem goes away??not sure why though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No mine is a Stage 2B no clutch launch control option. I will try the socket change, where do I get these? BUt one thing if I turn the car off and back on it goes away, still a socket problem you guys think?
No mine is a Stage 2B no clutch launch control option. I will try the socket change, where do I get these? BUt one thing if I turn the car off and back on it goes away, still a socket problem you guys think?
#11
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Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Boostfed)
might be. WOT could cause enough vibration at one point to shake it loose a little. By the time you get your car shut off its probably already reset itself. Let me know if you run at MIR this weekend man. I wouldn't mind checking out your car.
#12
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Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Redlinerace
I had the same problem on a CRX that I did for a customer, wouldn't go past 5000. I installed a SOHC VTEC and converted the car to OBD-1. After a few hours of diagnosing the problem, it turned out the he had a spliced wire in his harness coming from the coolant temp. switch on the side of the head. This splice gave him codes 6 and 7, both the coolant switch and TPS. Weird I guess but after running a wire...the car runs mint now.
#13
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Redlinerace
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16A1-EF9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem on a CRX that I did for a customer, wouldn't go past 5000. I installed a SOHC VTEC and converted the car to OBD-1. After a few hours of diagnosing the problem, it turned out the he had a spliced wire in his harness coming from the coolant temp. switch on the side of the head. This splice gave him codes 6 and 7, both the coolant switch and TPS. Weird I guess but after running a wire...the car runs mint now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I get NO CODES which FRUSTRATES ME EVEN MORE!!!!!!!!!!! I called and spoke to Matt with Hondata today he said h didn't think it was in the ECU itself, I beg ot differ, but he felt it was a Map sensor problem, I swapped the 3 Bar map sensor with a friend who has a BRAND NEW 3 Bar and took it for a test ride ***fingers crossed*** DOH! Same problem! Did this SEVERAL times and every time I turn the car off and back on PROBLEM goes away until I boost and rev to 9k! I also picked up a P28 ECU thatI will have socketed and have my ROM converted to that ECU and try that. Matt also said to swap the ecu with a knon good one to check it out also. We shall see. Sorry so many sad faces I am very sad and FRUSTRATED!
I get NO CODES which FRUSTRATES ME EVEN MORE!!!!!!!!!!! I called and spoke to Matt with Hondata today he said h didn't think it was in the ECU itself, I beg ot differ, but he felt it was a Map sensor problem, I swapped the 3 Bar map sensor with a friend who has a BRAND NEW 3 Bar and took it for a test ride ***fingers crossed*** DOH! Same problem! Did this SEVERAL times and every time I turn the car off and back on PROBLEM goes away until I boost and rev to 9k! I also picked up a P28 ECU thatI will have socketed and have my ROM converted to that ECU and try that. Matt also said to swap the ecu with a knon good one to check it out also. We shall see. Sorry so many sad faces I am very sad and FRUSTRATED!
#14
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (leed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have experienced similar problems that you have described. Only seemed to occur under boost/wot and at higher RPM. Car acts like it hit boost cut. Will give me temp. CEL until revs have dropped, but store no code. After this occurs, the car drives and behaves as though the TPS has been unplugged. I have poured over datalogs of this happening, and nothing stands out. Datalog shows as if throttle was snapped shut, map goes to ambient....
I first suspected the proximity of the ignition box (mounted under the dash), and even intermitent wiring problems between the ECU and MAP/TPS sensors. All checked out fine via the multimeter, and all connections are now soldered.
I believe I have narrowed it down to the eeprom socket in the ecu. Being that I do not have an emulator I have been removing/replacing the eeprom every time I change the tune. Over time the socket has become worn. I have found that even if you get a solid red led on the interface box indicating a good connection, it may not be good enough to remain stable under high revs. (read: vibration)
My temp solution until I solder in a Ziff socket with a lever (dont know the technical name for this), is to very gently bend the pins of the eeprom out. When the eeprom is socketed, it creates more pressure between the eeprom pins and the socket. Since I have been doing this (4weeks and about 30 tune changes) I have not experienced any rev cuts.
As a test, I socketed one of my older eeproms where the pins were straight, and I was able to get a rev cut on the first WOT run.
On a side note, I was chipping a friends NA B16, and we experienced the same thing when we tried a high rpm run. Loose eeproms dont like vibration
We resocketed, and everything was fine.
FYI, on a few occasions the eeprom required a reburn before being resocketed.
Also wondering what speed is your eeprom? What are all the #'s on the back?
HTH,
Dave
Pics to come....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good info I will try this as well to see if that helps or fixes the problem. I have to check the EEPROM # and this is the 2nd EEPROM we put in and it does the same thing. Did you ever turn the car off and restart to see if it cleared your problems before also? I have had a CEL but goes off because it is the Shift Light for Hondata that is set at 7800 or so, I get no CEL either/ I will try your suggetion an dbend the pins out. Thanks.
I first suspected the proximity of the ignition box (mounted under the dash), and even intermitent wiring problems between the ECU and MAP/TPS sensors. All checked out fine via the multimeter, and all connections are now soldered.
I believe I have narrowed it down to the eeprom socket in the ecu. Being that I do not have an emulator I have been removing/replacing the eeprom every time I change the tune. Over time the socket has become worn. I have found that even if you get a solid red led on the interface box indicating a good connection, it may not be good enough to remain stable under high revs. (read: vibration)
My temp solution until I solder in a Ziff socket with a lever (dont know the technical name for this), is to very gently bend the pins of the eeprom out. When the eeprom is socketed, it creates more pressure between the eeprom pins and the socket. Since I have been doing this (4weeks and about 30 tune changes) I have not experienced any rev cuts.
As a test, I socketed one of my older eeproms where the pins were straight, and I was able to get a rev cut on the first WOT run.
On a side note, I was chipping a friends NA B16, and we experienced the same thing when we tried a high rpm run. Loose eeproms dont like vibration
We resocketed, and everything was fine.
FYI, on a few occasions the eeprom required a reburn before being resocketed.
Also wondering what speed is your eeprom? What are all the #'s on the back?
HTH,
Dave
Pics to come....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good info I will try this as well to see if that helps or fixes the problem. I have to check the EEPROM # and this is the 2nd EEPROM we put in and it does the same thing. Did you ever turn the car off and restart to see if it cleared your problems before also? I have had a CEL but goes off because it is the Shift Light for Hondata that is set at 7800 or so, I get no CEL either/ I will try your suggetion an dbend the pins out. Thanks.
#15
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Boostfed)
STill got this problem! I have a P28 ECU I picked and am trying to get it socketed and have my ROM imported for the P28 and try that, I bent the pins back but one of the pins got a lil fu**ed up now so I bought another chip. I have been trying to get ahold of SGT Racing to see if Steve will socket my ECU for me this weekend since I PLANNED on running up to the Stafford area this weekend. We shall see. I will post once I figure this FRUSTRATING thing out.
#16
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (falconGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
here is what i have learned:
<FONT SIZE="3"> <FONT COLOR="red">cheap tin "dual wipe" sockets = bad</FONT></FONT>
<FONT SIZE="3"> <FONT COLOR="green">gold / brass barrel type sockets = good </FONT></FONT>
you might pay as much as 40 cents more for the good sockets. but you wont have issues.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where can I get these? Is it easy to switch out? ANy soldering on these or just plugged in?
here is what i have learned:
<FONT SIZE="3"> <FONT COLOR="red">cheap tin "dual wipe" sockets = bad</FONT></FONT>
<FONT SIZE="3"> <FONT COLOR="green">gold / brass barrel type sockets = good </FONT></FONT>
you might pay as much as 40 cents more for the good sockets. but you wont have issues.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where can I get these? Is it easy to switch out? ANy soldering on these or just plugged in?
#17
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Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Boostfed)
you try swapping out the distributor,I had a similiar problem and that was the problem....after I changed alot of **** like ecu,map sensor etc
#18
What is this crap?
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Boostfed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Where can I get these? Is it easy to switch out? ANy soldering on these or just plugged in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i personally find it a pain in the *** to desolder dip sockets and devices, but i have access to a badass solder sucker that makes it quick and painless. if its a device that you dont mind destroying then you can cut the pins and desolder them individually. i guess you could chop up a dip socket and do the same.
Where can I get these? Is it easy to switch out? ANy soldering on these or just plugged in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i personally find it a pain in the *** to desolder dip sockets and devices, but i have access to a badass solder sucker that makes it quick and painless. if its a device that you dont mind destroying then you can cut the pins and desolder them individually. i guess you could chop up a dip socket and do the same.
#19
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Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Boostfed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will post once I figure this FRUSTRATING thing out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I hear ya'. This owned me for 2 months. Bending the eeprom pins worked for me.
<----Has new sockets on the way.
I hear ya'. This owned me for 2 months. Bending the eeprom pins worked for me.
<----Has new sockets on the way.
#20
What is this crap?
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (Boostfed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Where can I get these? Is it easy to switch out? ANy soldering on these or just plugged in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
forgot the link http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/...5;756;
Where can I get these? Is it easy to switch out? ANy soldering on these or just plugged in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
forgot the link http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/...5;756;
#21
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (falconGSR)
don't flame, I'm just trying to aid in the troubleshooting process.
Did you disable knock sensor in hondata? Maybe try diong that?
-PHiZ
Did you disable knock sensor in hondata? Maybe try diong that?
-PHiZ
#23
Re: So I thought I figured out my 4800-5000 RPM rev limiter problem! NOT!!!!! HONDATA?! (PHiZ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't flame, I'm just trying to aid in the troubleshooting process.
Did you disable knock sensor in hondata? Maybe try diong that?
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah it is diabled.
Did you disable knock sensor in hondata? Maybe try diong that?
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah it is diabled.