crowder13

so like the title says i went down to a drag race about an hour and a half away from home(didnt run my car). so on the way back i noticed my car didnt feel strong(ive noticed this for the past week first time i drove it in a week and it still felt slower). so i broke my phone yesterday and had a replacement phone so didnt have any of my buddys numbers. we were doing about 85-90(ls tranny) and i dropped to 3rd gear and gunned it speed up and immediately noticed no power luckily my buddy in front of me slowed down and got behind me while i pulled over. i immediately shut down the car and pulled aside. sure enough oil every where. my first thought was headgasket and noticed it was oil and of course i found the hole in the block.

specs

Golden eagle sleeves
crank
bore
hone
wiseco 8.8 pistons and rings
eagle h beams
acl bearings

i dont know what else im a little tore up right now
i was only on 10lbs but i guess **** happens


















thats lmy buddy luke, he crazy
how to pull a motor with a hole in the block



Modified by crowder13 at 12:13 AM 12/3/2007


Modified by crowder13 at 8:30 PM 12/3/2007


Modified by crowder13 at 12:15 AM 12/5/2007

crowder13

this is probly the wrong section

418whpturboD

man that sux... sorry to hear that it went..

DaveF

who built the engine ?

no noise, prior to the thrown rod ?

DRAGLS

Can you post some pictures? Where did the rod break?

crowder13

didnt hear no noise or nothing drastic at least

GraphiteAccord

who tuned it? let's see a dyno sheet with afr's....

Freeway pulls are always very hard on a car, and if there is a weak link, the freeway will exploit it.

crowder13

all the work was done by precisionperformanceparts. a/f were usually down in th low 12 to high 11s. but there seemed to be a lean spot around -10 vac cruisin around 3000 rpms in 5th. thats why my car was acting weird. what usually the cause of a broken rod?

nonvtecallmotor

Sounds like the engine builder is at fault....

quicksilver1689

detonation pounding the rod bearings, detonation would cause the motor to feel down on power, just one theory. did you notice anything about the oil pressure? did it ever seem to get lower and lower everytime u drove the car? or did it just all of a sudden drop, then u found the hole in the block?

ShawnR

pics!

coneheadsracing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecallmotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like the engine builder is at fault....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pretty broad statement, givin little information.

OP, sucks man. Did you tell the shop about the lean spot? How lean are we talking. At that area your usually just cruising, so if it was still around 14 shouldn't of been an issue. Good luck on the rebuild, post some pics up too.

Edit: Do you have a spec sheet for the build. Too tight of a tolerance maybe. Do you know where the rod broke? I've only spun one bearing and when i did, it knocked like crazy, for about a 1000 miles lol. I too lost power over time, which is why it's weird you never heard anything.

crowder13

tolererances were a little tighter than stock honda, could have been detonation. this just happened last night so there is still work to be done ill post pics soon. there is a just a huge hole in the block

Eklsv-t

iTrader: (1)

golden eagle sleeved blox threw a hold lifetime warranty on sleeves not on block

nonvtecallmotor

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coneheadsracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Pretty broad statement, givin little information.

OP, sucks man. Did you tell the shop about the lean spot? How lean are we talking. At that area your usually just cruising, so if it was still around 14 shouldn't of been an issue. Good luck on the rebuild, post some pics up too.

Edit: Do you have a spec sheet for the build. Too tight of a tolerance maybe. Do you know where the rod broke? I've only spun one bearing and when i did, it knocked like crazy, for about a 1000 miles lol. I too lost power over time, which is why it's weird you never heard anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>Tune would of had to of been WAY off and have 40 degrees of timing in it to brake a rod in a low mile motor.......

hybrid_KJ

With that low of compression you could be at 18:1 at -10in vacuum and it still won't cause problems. On bearing clearances I always prefer to be on the loose side of spec than tight. That is likely your problem.

reactiondc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecallmotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like the engine builder is at fault....</TD></TR></TABLE>+1 if the tune was way off it seems like a bearing or piston would have been the first thing to go

0xenocron

My guess...rod bolt failure. In to see what you can figure out...

Sorry to hear about the issue

BoostCoupe

if you haven't opened it up and seen the snapped rod i'd go with broken rod bolts as well. most stores selling piston/rod combos include arp rod bolts with the kit.

crowder13

new pics, will keep updating

Jared

definitely not the tune. most likely low oil pressure or improper assembly, crank/bearing surface, or out of round caused a spun bearing that siezed on the crank and broke the rod.

crowder13

my builder seems to think loss of oil pressure or rod bolt

crowder13

has ne1 ever fixed a block that has slung a rod

vti2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My guess...rod bolt failure. In to see what you can figure out...

Sorry to hear about the issue </TD></TR></TABLE>


My toughts also, Rod bolt stretched and brocke.

HiProfile

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crowder13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has ne1 ever fixed a block that has slung a rod</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sure they have, but you may be better off having the sleeves pressed out, then get them put back into a cheap B18B. I'd imagine the cost of getting your cast alum block welded correctly will cost just as much, but it will always be a potential problem hanging over your head (or rather, below your head ).