cdaiscool

Hey guys! Got 2 questions today. I've done several searches and gotten nothing for the sticking, and think the fuel tank gasket one is unique. Posting here since the car is turbo'd and I haven't a clue the best place to ask this stuff.

1. I have a Skunk2 90mm throttle body bolted up to an Ultra Race manifold. Both purchased new straight from Skunk2. Car finally got running 2 weeks ago, and I've noticed the throttle body is sticking pretty good. Night I got it running it stuck at 6k rpm at one point. Now if I keep playing with the throttle, it'll sometimes come down to 2k or 1500 rpm, but never on its own.

I should note, this is my first serious build so I may have something not set quite right yet, but it was sticking at Profunction when I first got it started there. They'd suggested spraying some grease on the spring and inside of the throttle body then wiping it off. I want to know if there's any other tricks as well. Playing with it tonight.

2. I've had a strong fuel smell in the car while it runs. If it doesn't for a couple days, it goes away. I've found last night that the gasket between the tank and the pump hanger top is missing. However, the hanger isn't native to the tank since the native one wasn't a banjo bolt so I couldn't get the set-up to work with my fuel lines. I swapped it out with one from a car getting parted out, unsure the year, can probably find out though no guarantees that was original either. How can I find which gasket I need? Honda shows a different part number between various years. Will this even cause a strong fuel smell in the car (access panel off), or am I chasing a red herring?

Thanks in advance!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

If they are brand new contact skunk2

Rather than try to find a gasket just use hondabond or rtv. Way cheaper, faster, and more effective. Although since the tank technically isn't in the car it's more than likely the gasket around the pump cover in the car, same fix applies.

cdaiscool

Pump cover is off right now. Will Hondabond hold up to e98? Running e85 now, but will likely convert once I have a reliable way to get e98 to the house.

I contacted Skunk2, they said to send in a receipt and send it to them; they'll fix it. Problem is I ordered it over the phone and they never e-mailed an invoice (or I can't find it in my e-mail) so I have an e-mail with them to get a copy. Plus I don't necessarily want to part with it for several weeks while it goes to Cali from MI, they take a few days to get to it, they take a couple days to fix it, it takes a week to get back here (UPS takes 5 days from Cali to me).

Would rather try to fix it myself if at all possible.

cdaiscool

Not to mention, I may have very well not have the throttle cable set up right, or idle screw not played with.

Time to go hunt down procedures for this if it is indeed a thing.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Shipping a throttle body UPS makes no sense. USPS flat rate priority is a fraction of the cost and at least half as fast overall.

LightningTeg

Hondabond will hold up to magma

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

[QUOTE=wantboost;50392213]Shipping a throttle body UPS makes no sense. USPS flat rate priority is a fraction of the cost and at least half as fast overallQUOTE]

As much as I use the other services to ship expensive items to California, USPS takes 2 days from Michigan to California flat rate priority mail.

Get it replaced and be done.

cdaiscool

I know what I'm doing today. Getting fresh tube of Hondabond from Honda (my old one's plugged) and going at that tank.

E-mailing back-and-forth with Skunk2 to see where I go with this. Ultimately I'll probably send it in via USPS, thanks for the head's up!

wunfstgsr

Try adjusting the throttle stop screw behind the throttle cable wheel. Mine stuck when it was brand new i just adjusted the throttle stop screw behind the cable wheel and it doesn't stick.

supersilverdc2

I always was told it is a bad idea to play with that screw... I tried it once and was never able to get it the same again. just my experience on an OEM TB...

wunfstgsr

Its not complicated adjust the screw just a little and tighten the nut and open the throttle plate fully and let it snap shut and see if it still sticks.

cdaiscool

It's not sticking at full throttle I think, it's partial throttle.

For example, when I start it the car won't idle. If I hold it at 2k rpm the car will stay there. I get out, manually move the throttle to roughly 1k rpm and it idles for 30+ minutes (bedding in the cams etc). If I hit the gas sometimes it just dies, sometimes it sticks anywhere from 1-3k rpm.

The 6k rpm stick was when I was initially trying to drive the car with the twin disc for the first time.

cdaiscool

Pictures of the inside of the throttle body. It does appear to be scuffing the inside. I cleaned the marks with brake clean to make sure it's not carbon even though it's got roughly 4 hours idling on it.

Not sure yet if I'll just move the screw so it doesn't close so far, grease/sand where it's hitting, or send it back and lose some time while they fix. Did first drive tonight and have some stuff to fix but nothing major, could get tuned this weekend probably if I had a good throttle body.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

This is typical of these throttle bodies. I have one with same issue. I've gotten used to it and drive the car accordingly. If you let off the pedal slow it sticks. If you let it snap closed it doesn't stick open. Kinda shitty for such a pricey part but it is what it is

LightningTeg

I would just hit it with some emery cloth if you know thats whats keeping it stuck. Or adjust the blade screw so it sits open a little more and adjust IACV duty down

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Log its sticking closed you need to adjust the stop set screw

Dark_Teg

I bought my Skunk2 90mm TB used and it was such a POS I didn't feel right reselling it so I literally through it away. I bought the 74mm adaptor plate and will run a throttle body of a another brand.

cdaiscool

Last night I adjusted the TPS to WOT as called out in the various calibration threads. I measured out the closed throttle and saw it was 0.43, so I used the set screw to adjust it out to 0.48. I don't feel any sticking, but won't know for sure until I can get the car running. Charge piping is a tight fit, so wasn't able to get it done yesterday so I'm hoping to get it up today. If so, I'll update tomorrow if the calibrating of the TPS fixes this or not.

If not, Skunk2 suggests I clean out the rub marks with a scotch-brite pad, and if that doesn't resolve it then we move on to an RMA.

Calibration thread I used for anyone looking later:
https://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/...e-tps-2947986/

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

It would also be a good idea to take a deburring tool and break all of the sharp edges along the outer diameter of the butterfly. This would remove any sharp edges that are causing the butterfly to dig into the inner diameter of the bore which is more than likely what is causing those marks you are seeing, leading to the butterfly sticking.