extremeracer

Hi

I know that the S2 Pro 1's have been proven to work exceptionally well on high HP B series setups BUT

Does anyone have results of Skunk2 Pro 1's on Boosted H22 setups

Setup is as follows :

Sleeved H22
Wiseco Pistons
Eagle Rods
ARP's
ACL Bearings
ATI Dampner
Ported Head
Stainless Valves
Skunk2 Tuner Valvesprings and Retainers
Skunk2 Intake

Custom Equal Length Turbo Manifold
Garrett GT35R T3 - possibly looking at changing Precision 6262 Ball Bearing Billet

Would Pro 1's be a good option for the above setup aiming for 600whp ??

Thanx in advance

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

its just to much cam for 600whp car and you really dont have the rods to support to much more hp than you goal so why drop 700-800 dollars on cams when there just not nessesary. try and get ahole or some euro accord type r cams or some tuner 1's or type sh

0skunk2.com

Wrong... Pro 1's are not "to much" cam.

H Pro 1's have the same profile as the B Pro 1's and they go into smaller 1.8L-2.0L motors and just own. You may be able to make the same power (depending on your goals) without the aftermarket cams but your motor will work harder to do it and even then... wont have the same curve.

AdReNaLiN

I have read a few places where people have said the Skunk2 Turbo cams are worse than Skunk2 NA cams in a turbo car... is this correct? I'm talking H22a specific.

I'm interested in this discussion as I am looking at putting Skunk2 Pro2 Cams in my h22 turbo.

JDM H2B EK

i lost 60whp with skunk2 turbo cams over stock h22 cams... soo u tell me and the car fell on its face at 6500 rpms at jeff evans tuning

extremeracer

It has been proven on the B series front that "Turbo spec" cams are not the ideal on our Vtec engines and that the ITR/CTR cams actually work better than aftermarket Turbo cams.

I have seen B series cars with Pro 1's that aren't necessarily in the 750 - 850 whp range , I dont believe Pro 1's only work over 600 whp etc.

Yes Jeff Evans and a couple have proven that they do not work on Turbo's smaller than GT35R's , but since this car has a GT35R I feel it should work.

If we can make 600 whp @ 22 psi (for arguments sake) intead of 30 psi with the stock cams then, that means the turbo wont heat the air as much, the intercooler doesn't have to work as hard, you can run more timing etc. etc.

Plus the Torque curve and spool up improvemnets you get with the Pro 1's are already a huge plus point !!

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

1. Theyre not too much for a 600 whp setup... Midrange and upper powerband are much stronger (they help aid the upper RPM flow characteristics of the H head at north of 600 - specificallyt he ex ports taht are too damn small)

2. The Rods are fine for 600... Im making a shitload more than that on them beaten profusely and rev to around 9K for over 2 years.. They survived a 1=2=3=2 11K overrev (mecahnically driven) as well without issue.

OP you dont need them to make 600 with either of the turbos mentioned, but like I said they will greatly help hold TQ up on the top over 7200 ish rpm where the H heads seem to fall flat with stock cams (I have sheets to showe you what im talking about).

GO with no less tha a 82 AR ex housing as well... I run a T04ZR (DBB 67MM T4 Garrett-)but the switch from the .68 (T4) to a bigger .96 ex housing dramatically improved how TQ held out in my upper rpms


Type SH are NOTHING special... The type S are more agressive than other H cams (as far as OEM go) but the JDM cams are NEGLIGABLY more agressive than USDM offerings.. Like a couple degrees duration and BARLEY ANY noticable lift increase. Im running OEM JDM cams on a b uilt head. Id definately put a set in my car...


Regardless youre not going to make a whole lot over 620 period with the 3582R... A 3567 is a different story... LOL... I Ran a PT6176 for a while and it made 620 at 26 PSI...
The new 67 MM turbo im is an animal compared to it... Lights up stupid fast and hits hard as hell.... I have a 4 Bar sitting on my bench going in looking for 700 SOON (Ive been over 600 for over 2 years). LMK if theres any info you need that I can help with... I have some dyno sheets i can PM you but dont feel like putting them up on the site,


The 6262 is a good choice, but food for thought... We just put a 6265 on my friends H powered lude that made 610 with a 3582R and it made more power at the same boost and the top end was ALOT healthier.. It was definately noticable how much more efficient it was.


Good luck

90blackcrx

skunk2 pro1's are sick cams, either n/a or for turbo.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

You people are all to literal even you skunk2. Im not saying the pro1's are a bad cam. in fact there great cams and make huge power. What i was saying is its alot of cam for the setup. the 35r is the smallest turbo they should be used on and frankly IMO shouldnt be used on but thats just my opinion. and there is such a thing as TO MUCH cam for a setup. if you dont have the motor work or the exhaust flow due to small turbo or improper manifold or exhaust system then a huge all motor cam is NOT going to work to your advantage , it will reduce power if the flow isnt there

Stock cams will work but an afterm,arket cam will work better as stated above. some tuner1's would work very well and not wear valve train as much as the pro1's and still give the OP what he is looking for.

thats just my .02

C2K_TB_TEC

Hello... Mr eg..

check this out: http://cms.skunk2.com/id/163/PRO1-VS...HAFTS-BOOSTED/

"The car feels completely different in higher RPM’s with these cams. From 6000-9500 rpms, its like an entirely different beast compared to the CTR cams I had in there last year. When I did the first 3rd-4th gear pull with the Pro 1’s, I was actually scared of the car for the first time since I boosted. The power gains were noticably there with substainally less boost. I couldn’t be happier. Great tune, great cam."

I know theres info on evans tuning about these... but I think The package has to be taken into account aswell, as our altitude : )

KTULU990

I have an h22 almost finished right now with the Pro Series Valvesprings and Retainers and Pro cams... I was told that if I went with the pro cams I should get the Pro Series Valvesprings and Retainers.

Does the OP having Tuner Valvesprings and Retainers make a difference? Should he go with the tuner cam instead bc of this?

extremeracer

I understand what you saying !!

Since this original post we have decided to go with a Higher Flowing Turbo than the GT3582R as originally intended , and will be going the PRO 1 route as well with the correct valvesprings !

The Turbo manifold and exhaust system will not be a restriction on this car !

So another 10lb/min over the GT3582R and head work should see the Pro 1's working well !

Thanx for the input guys !

KTULU990

This thing is going to be an animal!!!

What turbo are you going with?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Thank you at least someone gets what im saying LOL. Good luck with the setup, pro 1's with a bigger turbo should really do very well on this setup. post up your accomplishments

a 4088r or 4094r with a 1.06 or 1.19 backside would be VERY nice on this motor or even a 6262 billet

oranginal

skunk2 tuner stage 1 cams would be better but pros are nice also.
skunk turbo cams are horrible.

the cams along with your IM and turbo will be a nice matchup.

extremeracer

Looking at either a 6262 or 6265 in Ballbearing - both proven to be capable of over 700whp

Will post results when the build is finished !

KTULU990

Good Luck... Let us know what happens!

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

Im running a T94ZR (DBB 67mm T$ ex housing) good for about 750.. Makin 660 now (limited by 3 BAr at 28 PSI) about to turn the boost up (35-38 PS)I on the 4 BAR hging spools RIDICULOUSLY on the H...... Divided colector manifol,d, spools as well as my old PT6176 with the 61mm wheel did on the old topmpount...

Its a mean ****