Signs of a bad head gasket
#1
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Signs of a bad head gasket
I was just wondering outside of the obvious from a gash or tears on a head gasket, is there anything else you look for specifically to know it is no longer good?
Do certain edges looks worn? I don't know so I am asking.
Pictures would be even better if you have some.
Thanks!!!
**I am sure everyone who has taken their head off before would like to know this information if they don't already know.
Do certain edges looks worn? I don't know so I am asking.
Pictures would be even better if you have some.
Thanks!!!
**I am sure everyone who has taken their head off before would like to know this information if they don't already know.
#2
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Re: Signs of a bad head gasket (Urugly)
buy a pH test kit if you get a reading less than 7 your coolant is acidic and anything above an your coolant is a base.
when you get an acidic reading you may have one of the following
1. blown HG
2. coolant breakdown ( old )
3. possible exhaust leak into coolant ( probably from HG )
when you get an acidic reading you may have one of the following
1. blown HG
2. coolant breakdown ( old )
3. possible exhaust leak into coolant ( probably from HG )
#3
Man U FTW
If the coolant looks milky (due to oil and coolant mixing) then you definately have a blown HG. The easiest way to tell is to do a compression test...if you see numbers like
140-140-110-138 then you know something is up and can proceed from that point...
140-140-110-138 then you know something is up and can proceed from that point...
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Re: Signs of a bad head gasket (Urugly)
believe the question is in regards to the HG being off the car already.
sometimes the tears are hard to see. they may be in the layers that are not visible or the leak can be between two layers of the HG. you can also see carbon deposits sometimes around the compression rings of the HG, where the exhaust crept into the cooling jackets.
This is why i prefer to do a compression or leak-down on a motor before tear down. then at least you know what hole to look in. It may not even be a blown HG, it may be a cracked sleeve, or a crack somewhere else, like the head. the HG is most likely the case, especially on honda motors.
Anyone seen other causes of lost compression on Honda motors?
sometimes the tears are hard to see. they may be in the layers that are not visible or the leak can be between two layers of the HG. you can also see carbon deposits sometimes around the compression rings of the HG, where the exhaust crept into the cooling jackets.
This is why i prefer to do a compression or leak-down on a motor before tear down. then at least you know what hole to look in. It may not even be a blown HG, it may be a cracked sleeve, or a crack somewhere else, like the head. the HG is most likely the case, especially on honda motors.
Anyone seen other causes of lost compression on Honda motors?
#5
Man U FTW
Re: Signs of a bad head gasket (foca)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by foca »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is why i prefer to do a compression or leak-down on a motor before tear down. then at least you know what hole to look in. It may not even be a blown HG, it may be a cracked sleeve, or a crack somewhere else, like the head. the HG is most likely the case, especially on honda motors. </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
I would have done a compression test before tearing into anything. IMO, if its apart and you're worried about it, replace it and you wont have to worry about it again.
This is why i prefer to do a compression or leak-down on a motor before tear down. then at least you know what hole to look in. It may not even be a blown HG, it may be a cracked sleeve, or a crack somewhere else, like the head. the HG is most likely the case, especially on honda motors. </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
I would have done a compression test before tearing into anything. IMO, if its apart and you're worried about it, replace it and you wont have to worry about it again.
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did a leakdown and numbers were all ok. The I still get some overheats, I am thinking my head is lifting at boost and I need a new head studs. I have ARP already, but it wouldn't hurt. I just wanted to see if there are visible signs so when I do take it off I can look.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Re: (Urugly)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Urugly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did a leakdown and numbers were all ok. The I still get some overheats, I am thinking my head is lifting at boost and I need a new head studs. I have ARP already, but it wouldn't hurt. I just wanted to see if there are visible signs so when I do take it off I can look.
Thanks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
are set at the proper torque ? and did you use the moly lube that came with them or something else. if you used a different lube on the studs that can cause the torque required to change. call ARP
Thanks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
are set at the proper torque ? and did you use the moly lube that came with them or something else. if you used a different lube on the studs that can cause the torque required to change. call ARP
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Re: (Urugly)
if you are overheating, why do you assume it is the gasket? water in oil? overpressurized cooling system?
did you do the compression check while it was hot?
I wouldn't start tearing things apart until you know what is going on.
did you do the compression check while it was hot?
I wouldn't start tearing things apart until you know what is going on.
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Re: (foca)
i dont take my chance i always replace me HG every time the head comes off, but yea deff a good idea to do a leak down or caop test befor.
i perfer to do a comp. test with the engine warm but every time i do, the tester expands and gets stuck in the head untill it cools down anyone else have this prob.?
i perfer to do a comp. test with the engine warm but every time i do, the tester expands and gets stuck in the head untill it cools down anyone else have this prob.?
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Re: (foca)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by foca »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arp's don't break. I am sure the studs are fine, unless you are at 700hp, save your money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
anything man made can break
anything man made can break
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Re: (boostedgsr1234)
don't have that prob with the tester. do you have the oring on there? you should not have to tighten too much to get a good seal..
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