schwett

most of the shops i've talked to about putting my motor back together after sleeving would rather have golden eagle do it. now, they *will* do it, but for reasons of liability/blame they'd reather not. if they do, it's another 6 hours of labor or so. i talked to golden eagle, and they won't just "put it back together" with new bearings, but rather insist on the following :

now, that's a lot of work i was not planning on doing, and frankly i just don't see how it's necessary for a moderately boosted street driven car. ted over at GE gave me a good chat about why they do it the way they do it, and while it all makes good sense, i just can't see spending an extra thousand bucks.

so is this just crazy or what? is it a horrible idea to reassemble the bottom end with new color matched bearings?


[Modified by schwett, 4:38 PM 4/19/2002]

dustin

well with new rods you'll have to replace the rod bearings anyways.

Might as well change the main bearings while you are in there.

I can't really see why that would cost $1000 though.

Dustin

schwett

the big $$$ are in the line boring, balancing the crank and pistons, sizing the rods etc etc.

this just seems WAAAAAAAAAAAY overboard to me, BUT i really don't want to spin a bearing or something in a year!!

dustin

Just have them do 4,5,6 & 7.

Dustin

schwett

yeah... that was what i asked them, and basically they won't. they don't think it's a good thing to do. oh well, i guess it gets reassembled locally.

DirtyLude

All I can say is keep looking for a shop that'll put your engine back together. Not putting it back together because of liability issues is a joke. That's the first time I've ever heard of that. In CA you should be able to find a hudred shops to do it for you.

schwett

so i gather you don't think it's a bad idea to just put it back together with new oem bearings...

skilzz

If all you've had is a sleeve job then all u need is 5,6 and 7 and new bearings which should be covered in the cost of a regular rebuild.


[Modified by maddskilzz, 6:50 AM 4/20/2002]

PrecisionH23a

you get what you pay for, you gotta pay to play. how much power are you looking at making and how much boost are you looking at running? If you want to boost 15psi plus and have a dyno *****, i agree with what GE told you. Do it right the first time so there wont be a 2nd time around.

schwett

yeah well that's the thing... i'm not gonna be putting down more than about 260whp/220lb-ft. 10psi max. all this effort is because i blew my ringlands, don't want to do it again, and you can't put forged pistons in stock h22a4 sleeves. it's just gettin' kinda out of hand...

PrecisionH23a

yep i had the same problem with my h23a sleeves. They are fiber-reinforced cylinder walls and you cant bore them over. It sucks, but once you re-sleeve your block, its pretty much bullet proof! You will blow your head off (due to poor tuning, improper a/f, etc.) before you crack a sleeve. i paid 400 shipped for a set of darton sleeves. labor is going to cost you probably around 400 to have the block resleeved, o-ringed, and decked. i was in your shoes last summer, i didnt want to resleeve my block, but i knew if i wanted to run 15+psi i had to resleeve. good luck on your project. both golden eagle and darton can resleeve blocks, try contacting darton also, i think they quoted me about 800-900 last summer to do my block. http://www.darton-international.com/ Darton also has a kit that will convert your block from an open deck to a closed deck. Let us know how everything goes.