k20z1ej1

i agree, thats why my personal car isnt making more. a b series at low 300s will live a good while if tuned right. for a stock b to make 400, and live any length of time, everything has to be perfect.

K7-1Ktrevor

Aradin

You guys talk about horsepower limits like they're the be all, end all of engines. Horsepower is a function of torque, not a measure of stress on parts. Simply put it's the ultimate amount of work an engine can do with a given amount of twisting force(torque). Torque is what breaks parts. To keep things simple; In the land of stock bottom end Hondas, I would be much more inclined to expect a setup making 350hp/275tq to survive significantly longer than another setup making 350hp/350tq. The engine making more torque is under a significant more amount of stress than the other. That's why you see stock bottom ends making big HP numbers with cams, efficient manifolds and large turbos. The torque numbers stay lower so the entire rotating assembly is experiencing less stress because all the power is in the upper rev range. That's where the engine is happier anyway because it's spending less time experiencing each combustion event.

Regardless, something to consider about OPs "25 psi" claim. If the turbo is flowing any kind of air at all, the engine is still experiencing a significant increase in the amount of compression load due to the massively increased size of the air/fuel charge in the combustion chamber. Even if engine has no timing in it and is rich, the bottom end is still screaming for mercy. With that said, I'm calling BS until I see proof especially since he claims it's on stock head bolts too. If it held 25psi for more than a few pulls and made any kind of power at all I would be impressed. I've seen stock engines bend/throw rods under much less stress.

Txdragon

**mic drop**

dilbeckskate

thats pretty much what I was saying lol but much better put... theres sooooo many seat sniffing peeter puffers on here that make all kinds of claims but cant back the first thing up too its pretty stupid

K7-1Ktrevor

Aradin

Increasing the rpm range adds a different kind of load than what boost adds. Extra rpm will increase the tensile load on the rods(where they are being pulled apart). Even though connecting rods are weakest in tension(because the molecules are being pulled away from each other) stock Honda rods are, generally, pretty tolerant to increased tensile loads. On the flipside, they don't like that much in the way of extra compression loads which is what you get when you start feeding one extra air/fuel. The extra compression load from boost will accelerate fatigue related failures on the rods too. So even if it holds 25psi once, it will not likely do it 50 times. That's why it's much more common to see a stock rod fail from boost than it is from moderately increased rpm, assuming the engine is tuned correctly, not money-shifted, etc etc. Of course there are more factors than just the rods, like piston speed, bottom end geometry, etc etc but that's a more in-depth conversation for another day.

But yes, increasing rpm way beyond stock limits(and out of an efficiently operating range) on a stock engine is asking for trouble.

NVturbo

Must be that awesome XTD Ebay clutch. LOL I highly doubt you're even making 200HP. Cool story though...


What's next, cut springs and it rides smooth like stock??? GTFOH

Txdragon

I ran an XTD clutch. Stage 3 6 puck. I installed it almost a year before I boosted and tuned. It did okay for an Ebay unit but I DID see it start slipping in my datalogs via rpm spikes in a few varied scenarios, a few months after said tune.
Was that because it was already beat on before receiving the power it claimed to support? Not sure 100% but I could say yes. If it were new, I'd use it again as a daily grind clutch but I wouldn't push it for any REAL demand. I don't see it as being the brand you lean on for purpose, but for an everyday, non boosted **** kicker, absolutely. If I were in a "I need a clutch right now but am strapped for cash and won't be able to spend 400 on a better unit for -x- time and can't wait until I can because I need this car"... Sure, I'd do it. Their TO bearings are garbage, but other than that, my experience with it to date has not been a bad one. Do I have a "proper" clutch lined up for my current build in progress? Yes, but that's because i can spend the extra on better at this point. Lol

Chance EG

10/10 title change.

Txdragon

lmao!

NVturbo

I would NEVER buy that garbage. It's no better than those cheap clutch kit from Advance Auto or AutoZone. I've always had good experience with ACT and will keep using their clutches as long as they make it for my application. I've used CC before and it's not bad for simple B series swaps. I've even used Exedy before and it was aiite.

Txdragon

Understood, sir! But if I may be Frank, because you'd never buy it says that you've never used it; any feedback you may have is hearsay and not personal experience and therefore, invalid. If you HAVE used one and had a legitimately shitty experience, I offer apologies for my forwardness. That being said; ACT is nice, I love the pedal feel, I used them when I autocrossed my 240s. I am leaning toward Comp or Exedy next.
I'm leaning toward possible options from Exedy, Comp,

turboLScrx

Aradin

I used cheap clutches for a long time. After replacing 3-4 of them I finally got sick of it and bought quality. The XTD puck clutches will hold power....for a brief time. The material they use is so hard it will chew up the cheap pressure plate surface in no time at all and you will lose clamping force very quickly. I got 3000 miles at 450hp out of a Stage 4/5 "extreme" XTD 4 puck clutch kit before it was completely worn and toast. Only about 10 launches and it was horrible to drive. The 6 puck stage 3 kits are not as bad to drive and don't wear as fast but they don't hold nearly the advertised power either... I switched to an ACT XTSS kit years ago and never looked back. Full face, organic sprung disk. 15k and going strong. Never slipped on me once over a number of setups. Fairly stiff pedal but drives really nice.

Txdragon

That was one thing I noticed when I swapped into my D16Z6; it looked like the clutch disc was chewing into the pressure plate and flywheel. Very mild grooves. It was odd. I hadn't noticed any issues prior to or even after swap/boost. It held pretty solid for a couple months before I noticed any slippage. When I pull my engine this time, I'll see what I'm sure will no doubt be chaos. Lol!

NVturbo

I don't have personal experience with that brand but have friends that do. After 6 months, it started to slip. Car wasn't heavily modified or anything. As for my current setup, I have a HDSS kit in the garage waiting to be put in. I don't like wasting time replacing clutches when it can be done right the first time.
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