Shopping list for Full Race Kit 1GT, management/controllers, etc.
03-12-2005, 10:49 PM
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Shopping list for Full Race Kit 1GT, management/controllers, etc.
I'm looking to purchase a Full-Race Stage 1GT kit before too long and want to elimate all the tertiary costs before I buy the F-R setup. This will be installed on a daily driver B16A Sol. The kit features a GT28RS. I also want to do things right the first time.
Here is what I understand I need (or would benefit from having):
-Engine management- leaning towards Hondata
-Larger injectors- RC 440's I think - going to look into this more
-EGT sensor and wiring
-A/F monitor- leaning towards PLX M300, didn't think the R500 or whatever was
necessary if Hondata was to be used
-Boost controller- also need to read more, learn between manual/electronic
-Turbo timer? I think a Greddy costs 100 and from what I know,
they seem like a good idea
-Many turbo set-ups I see here modify the PCV system and integrate a catch can
into it, necessary? It seems that everyone has a different opinion on this
one
-Various fuel lines for vacuum source needs, or perhaps the Golden Eagle vacuum
source, would that make the install cleaner/easier/more reliable? Braided
lines even better? Anything to NOT use a braided line for?
-Oil pressure gauge? What is best- tapping the block or using a Greddy/GE
oil filter adapter/supply whatever
-Walbro pump? They seem to be the standard that most use.
-Adjustable FPR?
-B&M in bay fuel pressure gauge to keep track of the FPR, seems like a good
upgrade for $40
-Fluidyne or equivalent radiator? I get the impression that all the high pressure
caps are kinda just bling for most intents and purposes
-K&N Filter- what size? A mesh screen makes me nervous despite whoever's
good luck with them
-A good general tune-up
-At the HP levels that this kit produces, a larger fuel rail would be pointless if for
anything other than aesthetics, correct?
-Honda OEM header gasket?
And a good tune...
Thanks! Please add and subtract from this list as necessary!
edit: made it easier to read
Here is what I understand I need (or would benefit from having):
-Engine management- leaning towards Hondata
-Larger injectors- RC 440's I think - going to look into this more
-EGT sensor and wiring
-A/F monitor- leaning towards PLX M300, didn't think the R500 or whatever was
necessary if Hondata was to be used
-Boost controller- also need to read more, learn between manual/electronic
-Turbo timer? I think a Greddy costs 100 and from what I know,
they seem like a good idea
-Many turbo set-ups I see here modify the PCV system and integrate a catch can
into it, necessary? It seems that everyone has a different opinion on this
one
-Various fuel lines for vacuum source needs, or perhaps the Golden Eagle vacuum
source, would that make the install cleaner/easier/more reliable? Braided
lines even better? Anything to NOT use a braided line for?
-Oil pressure gauge? What is best- tapping the block or using a Greddy/GE
oil filter adapter/supply whatever
-Walbro pump? They seem to be the standard that most use.
-Adjustable FPR?
-B&M in bay fuel pressure gauge to keep track of the FPR, seems like a good
upgrade for $40
-Fluidyne or equivalent radiator? I get the impression that all the high pressure
caps are kinda just bling for most intents and purposes
-K&N Filter- what size? A mesh screen makes me nervous despite whoever's
good luck with them
-A good general tune-up
-At the HP levels that this kit produces, a larger fuel rail would be pointless if for
anything other than aesthetics, correct?
-Honda OEM header gasket?
And a good tune...
Thanks! Please add and subtract from this list as necessary!
edit: made it easier to read
03-13-2005, 06:12 AM
#3
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Re: Shopping list for Full Race Kit 1GT, management/controllers, etc. (boostedej1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedej1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why dont u just put together your own kit? it'd probably save you money 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You know I could understand your reply if he was thinking about getting a kit like DRAG or something that was priced out at $3500. But he's talking about a FR GT kit, which IMO, has a lot of top quality parts in it. It's got a GT28RS turbo, a 3" DP which looks like it can bolt right up, and a pretty good looking manifold. Based on the quality of the parts in the kit, I dont think the it's overpriced at all
-Full-Race T3 ProStreet Manifold
-Full-Race 3" 4-bolt Downpipe
-Full-Race Intercooler 22"x8"x3"
-Full-Race GT28RS Ball Bearing Turbo with T3 turbine housing
-Tial 44mm Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve
-Full-Race Custom 2.5" Aluminum Intercooler Piping
-Full-Race Oil Line Kit
-Full-Race Vacuum Line Kit
-Full-Race Hardware Kit
-Full-Race Gasket Kit
-Full-Race Silicon Coupler Kit
-Full-Race Hose Clamp Kit
EDIT: I added up the costs of those items seperately. Plus labor costs if he was to buy stuff seperately and had to pay a welder to make everything fit. For example parts needed for a DP would cost $250-$275. But it would cost another $50-$100 to weld it all together. Same thing for IC piping, and if he had to make the GT28RS turbo work with another manifold and the IC. If the FR kit is a bolt on kit, then it takes care of the hassle of getting crap modified to work together,
</TD></TR></TABLE>You know I could understand your reply if he was thinking about getting a kit like DRAG or something that was priced out at $3500. But he's talking about a FR GT kit, which IMO, has a lot of top quality parts in it. It's got a GT28RS turbo, a 3" DP which looks like it can bolt right up, and a pretty good looking manifold. Based on the quality of the parts in the kit, I dont think the it's overpriced at all
-Full-Race T3 ProStreet Manifold
-Full-Race 3" 4-bolt Downpipe
-Full-Race Intercooler 22"x8"x3"
-Full-Race GT28RS Ball Bearing Turbo with T3 turbine housing
-Tial 44mm Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve
-Full-Race Custom 2.5" Aluminum Intercooler Piping
-Full-Race Oil Line Kit
-Full-Race Vacuum Line Kit
-Full-Race Hardware Kit
-Full-Race Gasket Kit
-Full-Race Silicon Coupler Kit
-Full-Race Hose Clamp Kit
EDIT: I added up the costs of those items seperately. Plus labor costs if he was to buy stuff seperately and had to pay a welder to make everything fit. For example parts needed for a DP would cost $250-$275. But it would cost another $50-$100 to weld it all together. Same thing for IC piping, and if he had to make the GT28RS turbo work with another manifold and the IC. If the FR kit is a bolt on kit, then it takes care of the hassle of getting crap modified to work together,
03-13-2005, 07:56 AM
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Re: Shopping list for Full Race Kit 1GT, management/controllers, etc. (BlueShadow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know I could understand your reply if he was thinking about getting a kit like DRAG or something that was priced out at $3500. But he's talking about a FR GT kit, which IMO, has a lot of top quality parts in it. It's got a GT28RS turbo, a 3" DP which looks like it can bolt right up, and a pretty good looking manifold. Based on the quality of the parts in the kit, I dont think the it's overpriced at all
-Full-Race T3 ProStreet Manifold
-Full-Race 3" 4-bolt Downpipe
-Full-Race Intercooler 22"x8"x3"
-Full-Race GT28RS Ball Bearing Turbo with T3 turbine housing
-Tial 44mm Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve
-Full-Race Custom 2.5" Aluminum Intercooler Piping
-Full-Race Oil Line Kit
-Full-Race Vacuum Line Kit
-Full-Race Hardware Kit
-Full-Race Gasket Kit
-Full-Race Silicon Coupler Kit
-Full-Race Hose Clamp Kit
EDIT: I added up the costs of those items seperately. Plus labor costs if he was to buy stuff seperately and had to pay a welder to make everything fit. For example parts needed for a DP would cost $250-$275. But it would cost another $50-$100 to weld it all together. Same thing for IC piping, and if he had to make the GT28RS turbo work with another manifold and the IC. If the FR kit is a bolt on kit, then it takes care of the hassle of getting crap modified to work together,</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree fully.. im saving about $4800 for the Stage3 GT for a b16.. a lot of people have told me to go with making my own kit.. but full-race its 100% quality, and their tests prove it.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...05014
and there was a video to that but i donno where it is..
overall, go with full race... another question... a/c or without a/c?
-Full-Race T3 ProStreet Manifold
-Full-Race 3" 4-bolt Downpipe
-Full-Race Intercooler 22"x8"x3"
-Full-Race GT28RS Ball Bearing Turbo with T3 turbine housing
-Tial 44mm Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve
-Full-Race Custom 2.5" Aluminum Intercooler Piping
-Full-Race Oil Line Kit
-Full-Race Vacuum Line Kit
-Full-Race Hardware Kit
-Full-Race Gasket Kit
-Full-Race Silicon Coupler Kit
-Full-Race Hose Clamp Kit
EDIT: I added up the costs of those items seperately. Plus labor costs if he was to buy stuff seperately and had to pay a welder to make everything fit. For example parts needed for a DP would cost $250-$275. But it would cost another $50-$100 to weld it all together. Same thing for IC piping, and if he had to make the GT28RS turbo work with another manifold and the IC. If the FR kit is a bolt on kit, then it takes care of the hassle of getting crap modified to work together,</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree fully.. im saving about $4800 for the Stage3 GT for a b16.. a lot of people have told me to go with making my own kit.. but full-race its 100% quality, and their tests prove it. https://honda-tech.com/zero...05014
and there was a video to that but i donno where it is..
overall, go with full race... another question... a/c or without a/c?
03-13-2005, 11:28 AM
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Re: Shopping list for Full Race Kit 1GT, management/controllers, etc. (andysila)
I'm going non-AC because I have a Sol and I think AC smells funny (could be my imagination). What about the items on the list, certainly a few will be needed... like Hondata.
03-13-2005, 11:30 AM
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Re: Shopping list for Full Race Kit 1GT, management/controllers, etc. (CaptivaBlue)
Also, the car is a daily driver so I can't have it down for a long time while parts are fabbed...
03-13-2005, 11:37 AM
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yea.. the only con i see about F-R is that its different than other kits like Greddy, which comes with fuel injectors, etc...so your gonna have to worry about getting fuel injectors (maybe), and maybe hondata.. or even neptune.. is this car going to be a daily driver for a short ammount of time or always?.
for a fuel pressure regulator- definitely AEM
for a fuel pressure regulator- definitely AEM
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03-13-2005, 12:38 PM
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Re: (andysila)
I plan to keep it on DD detail for quite some time, rebuild, and DD again. I hope to buy a 86 IROC Z 305 5-speed (don't hate!) from some friends soon to drive on occasion as well, but the Sol will be drived quite a bit too.
So-
Injectors
Engine Management
FPR
isn't the wideband AFR quite important as well?
So-
Injectors
Engine Management
FPR
isn't the wideband AFR quite important as well?
03-13-2005, 01:33 PM
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Re: (andysila)
varying levels of psi, I want some get-up but I don't want to be putting constant high boost stress on the engine- my plan is to run it on stock internals while I build up a spare B16 block on the side (b16 blocks are so easy to find after all)
I think the kit is capable of high 200s to low 300s on a b16 with a good tune so that'll be about where my eventual goal lies
I thought that fuel rails were not necessary for under 500hp
I think the kit is capable of high 200s to low 300s on a b16 with a good tune so that'll be about where my eventual goal lies
I thought that fuel rails were not necessary for under 500hp
03-13-2005, 02:28 PM
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Re: (andysila)
You dont really need a wideband if someone elts is doing the tuning, the shop usually has their own.
Its a nice thing to have though, if you've got the extra cash to spend.
Its a nice thing to have though, if you've got the extra cash to spend.
03-13-2005, 04:24 PM
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Re: (Blackack26)
The spare block might be sleeved, or just posted- I didn't think sleeving was necessary for 300whp dd. I thought the wideband would be a nice touch being that the FR kit is 4200 so 300 for a wb O2 isn't very consequential.
03-18-2005, 04:20 AM
#18
Re: Shopping list for Full Race Kit 1GT, management/controllers, etc. (CaptivaBlue)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CaptivaBlue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-Engine management- Hondata, AEM, Uberdata etc allow you to tune yourself which is nice, Neptune is becoming a nice option, but you cannot tune yourself
-Larger injectors- 440's are too small for your power desires. Go with 550's
-EGT sensor and wiring Not necessary but OK
-A/F monitor- Again, not necessary unless youre going to street tune yourself, this is your call. A cheapo Autometer will perform the same function as an EGT or Wideband, if all youre using it for is to monitor when something is wrong and youre running dangerously lean/rich. If you dont plan on tuning yourself, I dont see a need for an EGT or Wideband unless you just want them to be balla
-Boost controller- Up to you. Stay away from the greddy "style". They suck. I would just go with a tried and trye turboxs, joe p, etc
-Turbo timer? Not necessary. No need to let the car cool unless you just hammered it, stopped, and plan on turning the car off. Turbo timers are a gimmick.
-Many turbo set-ups I see here modify the PCV system and integrate a catch can
into it, necessary? It seems that everyone has a different opinion on this
one I wouldnt say necessary, but certainly ideal. Those oil vapors get rerouted into the system and can sometimes lead to detonation. This is on a very small scale though. Really, would it make a difference? Probably not. Its just for peace of mind and efficiency really.
-Various fuel lines for vacuum source needs, or perhaps the Golden Eagle vacuum
source, would that make the install cleaner/easier/more reliable? Braided
lines even better? Anything to NOT use a braided line for? Ideally, braided for oil feed, return, and wastegate. If you want to run it for fuel too, thats up to you. Vacuum is overdoing it. A GE box is nice, but again its not necessary. You can still make it clean if you run the hoses right and tap the right sources. IE dont tap the FPR for the wastegate, BOV, AND boost gauge. Vac manifolds arent any more reliable or easier in my eyes at all
-Oil pressure gauge? Id just get an electronic oil pressure guage and run it off the oil pressure sender. Sandwich adapter is nice, but you can accomplish the same with another tap into the senders location. Im not sure if having multiple sources there causes a change in pressure or anything though, maybe someone else can shed some light on that
-Walbro pump? GSS317 or 342. Works for me
-Adjustable FPR? All stock baby
-B&M in bay fuel pressure gauge Why not. Its $40 and it works. It can help with troubleshooting
-Fluidyne or equivalent radiator? Yep the aftermarket caps are pretty much a gimmick, but they cant hurt. I run stock without any issues, and I know plenty of guys that run stock half size like on your setup and they dont have any issues either. This ones really up to you. Honestly, Id probably stay stock, then if I noticed cooling issues after some test drives around the neighborhood, Id upgrade
-K&N Filter- what size? Sorry dude no part numbers. I'd run an Apex'i though if I was choosing a filter for my setup. Hype is large on that one, I still want to test some results!
-A good general tune-up Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, etc
-At the HP levels that this kit produces, a larger fuel rail would be pointless if for
anything other than aesthetics, correct? Absolutely. Stock is fine.
-Honda OEM header gasket? Yep
And a good tune... The key!
Thanks! Please add and subtract from this list as necessary!
edit: made it easier to read</TD></TR></TABLE>
-Engine management- Hondata, AEM, Uberdata etc allow you to tune yourself which is nice, Neptune is becoming a nice option, but you cannot tune yourself
-Larger injectors- 440's are too small for your power desires. Go with 550's
-EGT sensor and wiring Not necessary but OK
-A/F monitor- Again, not necessary unless youre going to street tune yourself, this is your call. A cheapo Autometer will perform the same function as an EGT or Wideband, if all youre using it for is to monitor when something is wrong and youre running dangerously lean/rich. If you dont plan on tuning yourself, I dont see a need for an EGT or Wideband unless you just want them to be balla
-Boost controller- Up to you. Stay away from the greddy "style". They suck. I would just go with a tried and trye turboxs, joe p, etc
-Turbo timer? Not necessary. No need to let the car cool unless you just hammered it, stopped, and plan on turning the car off. Turbo timers are a gimmick.
-Many turbo set-ups I see here modify the PCV system and integrate a catch can
into it, necessary? It seems that everyone has a different opinion on this
one I wouldnt say necessary, but certainly ideal. Those oil vapors get rerouted into the system and can sometimes lead to detonation. This is on a very small scale though. Really, would it make a difference? Probably not. Its just for peace of mind and efficiency really.
-Various fuel lines for vacuum source needs, or perhaps the Golden Eagle vacuum
source, would that make the install cleaner/easier/more reliable? Braided
lines even better? Anything to NOT use a braided line for? Ideally, braided for oil feed, return, and wastegate. If you want to run it for fuel too, thats up to you. Vacuum is overdoing it. A GE box is nice, but again its not necessary. You can still make it clean if you run the hoses right and tap the right sources. IE dont tap the FPR for the wastegate, BOV, AND boost gauge. Vac manifolds arent any more reliable or easier in my eyes at all
-Oil pressure gauge? Id just get an electronic oil pressure guage and run it off the oil pressure sender. Sandwich adapter is nice, but you can accomplish the same with another tap into the senders location. Im not sure if having multiple sources there causes a change in pressure or anything though, maybe someone else can shed some light on that
-Walbro pump? GSS317 or 342. Works for me
-Adjustable FPR? All stock baby
-B&M in bay fuel pressure gauge Why not. Its $40 and it works. It can help with troubleshooting
-Fluidyne or equivalent radiator? Yep the aftermarket caps are pretty much a gimmick, but they cant hurt. I run stock without any issues, and I know plenty of guys that run stock half size like on your setup and they dont have any issues either. This ones really up to you. Honestly, Id probably stay stock, then if I noticed cooling issues after some test drives around the neighborhood, Id upgrade
-K&N Filter- what size? Sorry dude no part numbers. I'd run an Apex'i though if I was choosing a filter for my setup. Hype is large on that one, I still want to test some results!
-A good general tune-up
Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, etc-At the HP levels that this kit produces, a larger fuel rail would be pointless if for
anything other than aesthetics, correct? Absolutely. Stock is fine.
-Honda OEM header gasket? Yep
And a good tune... The key!
Thanks! Please add and subtract from this list as necessary!
edit: made it easier to read</TD></TR></TABLE>
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