egsir2

Hi everyone, i am starting to piece together my turbo kit at the moment. I have read loads and loads and have learned alot. My question is, if i want to achieve 250-300bhp do i need to build the motor??I have read alot say no, and alot say yes.
I was considering getting CP 9:1 pistons with wrist pins. Do i actually need these? If i did get them, how much more bhp would my b16 take? I other words are they worth getting for the jump in power? As far as i can determine i do not need to upgrade my H-beams. Also i am considering getting head bolts, just for piece of mind. Any help appreciated.
I have a JDM ITR too, so the car wont be my daily driver all year round if that makes a difference in your opinions.

Thanks in advance from a budget builder.

Schister66

If you want to make 300whp on a stock B series, you DO NOT need to build it. I made 315whp on my stock GSR and ran it like that for 2 years daily driven.

egsir2

Cheers for the input, By the way. I notice on this everybody talks about WHP, and not BHP. are we talking about the same thing? Here in Ireland we consider whp the power that goes to the ground, and bhp as the power at the flywheel. Just like to know to avoid any confusion. To me, when you say 300whp, that equates to roughly 350 bhp.

TDogg Teg

Driveline losses from the crank to the wheel will vary upon the vehicle and drivetrain. Normally, when you see a goal set on here, it is in whp, because dyno tuning is imperative for achieving it, and the vast majority of us on here are tuning on wheel drum dynos and not crank dynos.

TDogg Teg

And your B16 will do 250 to 300 whp easily with a good reliable tune, but I DO recommend you upgrade to those ARP headstuds to minimize head lift.

zex_cool

i dont think you do. but ill tell you how my goes when i get on a dyno next week.

egsir2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TDogg Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Driveline losses from the crank to the wheel will vary upon the vehicle and drivetrain. Normally, when you see a goal set on here, it is in whp, because dyno tuning is imperative for achieving it, and the vast majority of us on here are tuning on wheel drum dynos and not crank dynos.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats nice to know, because now im even more impressed with the power i can make.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TDogg Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And your B16 will do 250 to 300 whp easily with a good reliable tune, but I DO recommend you upgrade to those ARP headstuds to minimize head lift.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think i will get the headstuds. I just dont want to worry about headlift. Plusi will be remiving the head and inspecting everything for any damage before i boost it


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think you do. but ill tell you how my goes when i get on a dyno next week. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the input, keep up to date with your results.


Thanks again for the input, i can finally piece the kit together with complete piece of mind and an exact shopping list.

to quick, informative replys.

NeKe1point0

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TDogg Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I DO recommend you upgrade to those ARP headstuds to minimize head lift.</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed

blinx9900

250bhp? hell you dont even need a turbo.

0morgan@synapse motorsport

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NeKe1point0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

agreed </TD></TR></TABLE>

have you guys experienced head lift on the stock bolts? not that i suggest it but we have tuned 400+whp motors on stock reused bolts. head lift isnt much of an issue on the b series motors.

zex_cool

i never heard of b series head lifting. almost always d series. if your getting it on a b series i think you got tuning issues.

btw, my b16a is all stock minus some minor bolt ons.

blinx9900

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike@synapse motorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

have you guys experienced head lift on the stock bolts? not that i suggest it but we have tuned 400+whp motors on stock reused bolts. head lift isnt much of an issue on the b series motors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

every motor is different and we never know the abuse the engine had in japan, ive seen stock honda head lift with 250whp it dosent happen all the time and i know that, just saying it could happen.

egsir2

I have decided that i will get the headstuds, but i will leave the block alone until something goes. I dont have anywhere to put an engine either, so i would have to work with the block in the car, so its a hassle that im gonna leave for the time being.

Ill probably get 250-300whp and ill instantly want more, then ill be kicking myself, but hey, what the hell.

The extra few $$$ ill save on pistons will get me built that bit quicker.

Also, a freind of mine came in posession of an XS Power turbo kit. Im not gonna even consider the turbo, or manifold, but what about the intercooler and IC piping?? Even the oil lines etc? B.O.V perhaps, maybe thats pushing it.

JoePSI

Do it right.. the first time brother.

egsir2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoePSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do it right.. the first time brother.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do plan on doing it right, but surely the Intercooler and piping atleast cant be that bad can it??? I mean its still aluminum, its not like its just gonna explode under boost. As long as i have decent couplers and clamps it should be fine right?

Schister66

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cheers for the input, By the way. I notice on this everybody talks about WHP, and not BHP. are we talking about the same thing? Here in Ireland we consider whp the power that goes to the ground, and bhp as the power at the flywheel. Just like to know to avoid any confusion. To me, when you say 300whp, that equates to roughly 350 bhp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly

blinx9900

you can use the intercooler.

egsir2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can use the intercooler.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just the intercooler, not even the charge piping?

Thanks again for evryone's input. For some reason i was a little apprehensive about boosting, i duno why. I seem to have more faith on confidence in it now after reading your replys.

Too many haters on my local forum in Ireland. Too much (oh it'll never last under boost, youll have to fully build it to run 0.000000001 psi :ghey: )



EDIT: One more thing i need to ask. i found a bunch of base maps for boosted hondas somewhere before. It was like a little library, but i just cannot find it again. Could anyone point me in the direction of a basemap for my boosted set up. Also, how much more timing do you think i could add on a base map for 95 octane petrol? thats our pump rating over here. I suppose it doesnt really matter, itll have to be fine tuned on the dyno anyway.

ALFA

Keep going on opinions... i´m gonna boost my b16 too, just need to take out the B18C from my eg9.

What do you think guys about the best turbo to achieve 300 whp, for daily driving?

zex_cool

what ems ?

egsir2

Ive been told a 57 trim .63 ar t3/t4

Powerband between 4k-8k, full spool should be in around 4,600. So ive been told anyway.

GS-R Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive been told a 57 trim .63 ar t3/t4

Powerband between 4k-8k, full spool should be in around 4,600. So ive been told anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have an SC 34 on my JDM GSR. DD for 2 years at 270whp @ 7psi no problems. Now I'm at 370whp @ 14 psi. She's not the DD anymore, but still no issues. Drove 3+ hours each way for the tune and 2+ hours to the track.

Again every set up is different, I am just throwing my two cents in .

zex_cool

ems = engine management system.

57 trim is what i have. cant really tell you how it is until i get my ostrich back. but before it died i was making like 6psi by ~4.5k rpm.

egsir2

Thats nice, that exactly what im looking for. This is on a b16 yes? did it make power all the way to rev limit? Or did it start to drop off after 8k?

So does anyone have any input as to the timing that can be added becasuse of 95 octane fuel? Are the octane levels even measured the same way in our countries? Maybe what you say is 91 octane might be higher over here. Just a thought.

I have Crome Pro + Ostrich and LM-1 routed back into ecu for data logging.

I have also read some mixed opinions on the correct AFR under boost. I hope to run between 8-10 psi for the moment, should i be ok in the low 12's AFR wise? Anyone have any crome target maps they wish to share?