Well it’s about time to start another build thread. The car is already on the road and running. Most of this build was done over the winter.

Goals for this car are just a fun street/track car that runs consistent high 10 second passes, keeping the power around ~450whp. After selling my db8 shell I used a lot of parts from my old build. I was originally planning on going bigger turbo and sleeved block, but decided to keep it cheap and use what I already had. This car weighs about 600 lbs less then the 4 door integra so that alone will make it considerably faster. This car is just a toy and it’s not a big deal if it breaks, so it’s gonna get pushed hard lol. Currently I have the car tuned on 92 octane plus methanol injection at about 16psi in 3rd & 4th gear. It’s already spinning my 235/50/15 R888s in 3rd gear. This thing already feels faster then my old LS swapped hatch that ran 11.0@126mph, so hopefully it will easily hit 10s as it has a lot of power left on the table.

Here’s a run down of the setup.

GSR engine
-nippon turbo pistons 9.6-1 cr (yup I’m a cheap *** haha)
-manley rods
-king standard bearings
-ARP headstuds
-super tech dual valve springs 75lb with oem retainers
-GSR cams
-skunk2 pro series intake manifold
-stock gsr throttle body

JDM gsr trans with oem lsd
-action stage 6 unsprung 6 puck
-k-tuned b-series shifter with solid aluminum bushing


Fuel system
-walbro 450 pump (hardwired with relay)
-ID1000cc injectors
-Chinese fuel rail
-aem fuel pressure regulator
-fuel lab 6 micron filter
-6an fuel feed line
-AEM water/methanol injection kit with a 500cc nozzle

Turbo setup
-stc dbb hunter turbo
-spoolin performance mini ram
-turbosmart 45mm wg
-speedfactory 600hp intercooler core w/ custom made backdoor end tanks
-knockoff rfl bov
-custom 2.5” ic piping
-custom 3” dp
-full 3” exhaust with vibrant muffler
-custom catch can, 2 ports off vc, 2 ports off black box on back of block

Cooling system
-tucked scirocco radiator
-spal 13” fan (hardwired with relay)
-speedfactory filler neck with skunk2 radiator cap

Electronics
-p28 ecu with demon 2 & Neptune rtp
-4 port mac solenoid for bbg
-3 bar Omni map sensor
-small agm battery mounted behind bumper

Suspension & chassis
-progress cs2 coilovers 550f & 650r
-gsr disc brake swap (hawk hp+ pads)
-oem mounts with polyurethane inserts (rear mount filled with construction adhesive, it’s super solid)
-polyurethane lca bushing up front

Wheels & tires
-15x8 +20 xxr 530 wheels (wish they were +35 offset)
-235/50r15 R888s up front
-225/50r15 R888s out back
Track slicks setup
-24.5x8.5x13 m&h slicks
-vms 13x9 +0 wheels

Heres some before and after pics. I bought this car for $200 with a d series that had a hole in the block lol.

Here are some pics of the intercooler end tanks that I made. I bought this speedfactory 600hp intercooler core for a $100 shipped as a blemished core. They just added an extra row on it lol, but it functions perfectly.

Sorry pics are out of order

Some more pics with slicks mounted next to the daily evo 👍🏼

Excellent build has everything I hope to add to mine someday. Can’t wait to see what it runs!

How do you find the ride quality with those coils on the street?

Thanks guys!

I really like them, especially for what they cost. Honestly they are a little stiff with the spring rates I choose with this light of a chassis, but it’s exactly what I wanted.

Thanks guys. That was actually the first time I used my welder in almost a year lol. I just ran a few practice welds on the material I was using and said well here we go lol. Definitely turned out better then I thought it would. I actually welded the inside of the end tanks as well just to make sure it’s bullet proof.

And yes Geis was spot on about the pistons. I see no reason to run forged pistons with stock sleeves. With a sleeved block I would absolutely run qualify forged pistons. I put this whole gsr engine together for about $800 (that includes the cost of the gsr block & head I bought), I actually replaced the valve guides myself with bronze guides, and reamed the valve to guide clearances myself, then lapped in the valves. I ended up having the machine shop cut a couple of the exhaust valves because I couldn’t get them to seal 100% with the new guides. I definitely saved myself a lot of money doing all the little stuff myself.

Thanks you. It’s kteller 3” exhaust piping, with a 3” inlet/outlet vibrant muffler. It’s actually the exact downpipe and full exhaust off of my 4 door integra. It bolted right up without any modification. I thought I was going to have to shorten it up.

The radiator is from a vw sirocco, I modified the radiator support so I could tuck in closer to the intercooler. I absolutely love this radiator setup. I haven’t seen coolant temps above 190* yet (fan comes on at 188*), had a similar experience with the integra and this radiator setup. Yesterday it was 90* outside and I did 3 back to back to back 2nd-3rd gear full pulls with knock ears on to verify everything is safe when really beating on it. The results were zero knock, nice and cool iat temps (meth nozzle located past iat sensor), and ect under 190* 👍🏼

Thanks man! For the end tank outside corner joints it was 140amps, 30% cleaning, 200hz, pulse turned off. To weld the end tanks to the core I had to crank it up to 180 amps, increase cleaning to 35-40%, and lowered it to 100hz for more penetration, no pulse again. I just like to control amperage with the foot pedal instead of mess with pulse settings.

Thanks bro! Should be a very fun summer 👍🏼

I’m using heavy duty pushloc hose. I cut the 1/2” npt bung at a slight upward angle before I welded it to the oil pan (welded the inside too), then I actually drilled and retapped the flange that bolts to the turbo so the 45* fitting could thread in further and cut the extra off. With a mini ram manifold that hangs this low every little bit of extra height you can get really helps. When working with a really short return line like this, if your angle is off at all or your hose it too long it will bind up. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions man.

LightningTeg did a really good oil return setup with the same manifold on his car. He has pics of it in his build thread. His turned out better imo.

Haha thanks! I never drove this car without the cut outs so I can’t say, but I’m sure every little bit helps.

Yeah I change cars as much as I do my shoes lol. I think this is my 10th turbo car haha.

Yep I ran a 3 port before on both of my last builds. Decided to try out this 4 port deal. I wanted to run my 3 lb wg spring to have traction in first gear on the street and I did and still could get 16psi with a relatively low dc %, BUT that small of a spring made boost come back too slow after a shift witch was a deal breaker for me. So I put a 7lb wg spring in and boost comes back much faster after a shifts now. I wish Neptune had gear based quick spool like hondata has. This manifold has some boost creep so it makes tuning boost by gear by rpm a little more tricky. I hold as high of a dc % in the lower rpms that I can to spool the turbo as fast as possible without over shooting, then I have to tapper dc out uptop to hold a consistent flat boost curve.

I don’t really have any current pics of just the radiator mounted, but you can see how I modified the radiator support in this pic. I welded in a thick piece of U chanel steel and moved it forward as far as possible to make more room in the engine bay. It was honestly probably a little over kill just to mount the radiator and intercooler, but it’s super strong and I use it as a jack point to lift the car.
This is the exact radiator I have. It’s from an 80s scirocco and rabbit I believe. There is no fill port, so you either need to run an in-line cap or do what I did and run a speedfactory filler neck that mounts to the cylinder head.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/GPI-ALUMINUM-...IAAOSwDk5UE8Fz