96 GSR-T

I did some searching but seen nothing about RC1000cc injectors and resistor boxes, just for DSM injectors. What all do I need to buy to run these, I allready have the clips. I was going to buy an FJO Box but my tuner just told me not to worry about it and that it is not necessary. Anyone care to chime in?

TurboGoKart

What year/make is your car?

Injector resistor boxes can be found from 89-91 civics and CRX's. Or you can jump on the Market Place here and find someone selling one. They generally go for about $20.

96 GSR-T

My car is a 96 GSR, I was not sure if the boxes I saw FS in the market place were the ones I needed or not. They look rather bulky, where do I mount 4 of those in my allready crowded engine compartment? Do I need 1 of them or 4 of them?

Tchleung

Any resistor box for peak and hold injectors will work. and you only need 1.

TurboGoKart

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tchleung &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and you only need 1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup.

96 GSR-T

Awesome.....thanks alot.

nowtype

Um, I suggest rethinking any setup that needs 1000cc injectors if you dont understand resistor boxes. Do a search on ohms law, saturated injectors, and peak and hold injectors. I'll spoon feed you a little info in hopes it helps others later.

Simple way to think about it is saturated injectors require about 12-16 ohms, p&H require about 2-5ohms

Inline resistors are added so

Req=R1+R2
Req is 12-16
R1=2-5ohms
R2=your inline resistor

so basically the highest resistor you would need is an 11 ohm resistor and the lowest would be 7ohms.

Now the power:

P=V*I
P=power, V=voltage=12VDC, I=current=measure it(in amps)

96 GSR-T

??????????????????????????????????????

I speak idiot bud, what you just posted looked very intresting but totally useless to me. So how am I supposed to tell what the resistance of the box is that I plan to buy?

TurboGoKart

If you buy a Honda resistor box, it will work. No problems. People do it all the time. I'm running my 880's with a resistor box and it works perfectly fine.

96 GSR-T

Yea that is what I was going ot do until I got a curve ball thrown at my head.

Griffin@Camtech

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Um, I suggest rethinking any setup that needs 1000cc injectors if you dont understand resistor boxes. Do a search on ohms law, saturated injectors, and peak and hold injectors. I'll spoon feed you a little info in hopes it helps others later.

Simple way to think about it is saturated injectors require about 12-16 ohms, p&H require about 2-5ohms

Inline resistors are added so

Req=R1+R2
Req is 12-16
R1=2-5ohms
R2=your inline resistor

so basically the highest resistor you would need is an 11 ohm resistor and the lowest would be 7ohms.

Now the power:

P=V*I
P=power, V=voltage=12VDC, I=current=measure it(in amps)
</TD></TR></TABLE> tunning shops all over the country stay open because not everyone knows everything about engine setup and tunning. Some of the nicest setups i know of are owned by guys who know nothing about tunning

coneheadsracing

since your buying rc, can't you just get the ones designed for our car, without a resistor box, and avoid this issue altogether?

Griffin@Camtech

I am pretty sure RC doesn't make high Imp. injectors in 1000cc i think they only go up to 750cc

jcoosi

Buy a fjo it just installs inline with your individual inj.A resistor box is like a bandaid.

vaporboy12

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jcoosi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy a fjo it just installs inline with your individual inj.A resistor box is like a bandaid.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the fjo box is the same thing it just a bit better

Pilot

The FJO Injector driver box actually drives peak and hold injectors at high current peak and hold. It's not just a resistor box! A resistor box only protects a low current OEM style injector drive from buring up when trying to drive high-current peak and hold type injectors. And what's worse for performance is that peak and hold injectors which are built and designed to be driven with high-current don't get the current they require from a resistor box and just lazily open. You'd be better off with just saturated injectors if you're not going to drive peak and hold injectors as they were designed.
I'm surprised your tuner said you didn't need a true injector driver box if you're running a setup that needs 1000cc injectors.

Ross.

96 GSR-T

Many many many people just run these resistor boxes and no driver. I was going to buy the fjo but was told i didnt need it.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

And many many people are used to crappy performance (poor idle fuel control) from a resistor box and large injectors too, but how would they know the difference since they think its the norm?

AEM also makes a good injector driver box.

T-RO

just use an OEM one. Like the ones i sell. lol (link in my sig)

96 GSR-T

I just bought a box the other day....will run it for awhile and see how I like it, if I have problems with it I will just buy an FJO, its less than $200 so its not going to break my bank.

2k.civic.si

since i keep hearing this im going to set the record straight...there is no such thing as a peak and hold injector...there is no such thing as a saturated injector...there is however a peak and hold injector driver controller method and a saturated driver method...the peak and hold does just that, it peaks the power instantly to basicly slam the injector open then the power drops to a lower level and holds, hence peak and hold....
there is however low impedance and high impedance injectors
i learned this from ben strader at efi university...kinda neat info

to answer the thread creators question...you can take the low impedance injectors and get a 10watt 10ohm resistor and run it inline with to make them a high impedance injector...you can get 10watt 10ohm resistors at radio shack...or use a "resistor box" from an older honda

2k.civic.si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pilot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The FJO Injector driver box actually drives peak and hold injectors at high current peak and hold. It's not just a resistor box! A resistor box only protects a low current OEM style injector drive from buring up when trying to drive high-current peak and hold type injectors. And what's worse for performance is that peak and hold injectors which are built and designed to be driven with high-current don't get the current they require from a resistor box and just lazily open. You'd be better off with just saturated injectors if you're not going to drive peak and hold injectors as they were designed.
I'm surprised your tuner said you didn't need a true injector driver box if you're running a setup that needs 1000cc injectors.

Ross.</TD></TR></TABLE>

just out of curiosity how much delay does this box add? for example..when you only have about 20ms at 6000rpm to fire an injector...a couple extra ms of delay isnt exactly a good thing...it can put the injector timing out of phase with the intake cycle...i know with an aftermarket system like haltech you can phase the injectors and ignition seperately from each other to improve lower rpm fuel ecomony and emissions.. but other systems dont have this feature...so the delay couldnt be compensated for

raene

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k.civic.si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just out of curiosity how much delay does this box add? for example..when you only have about 20ms at 6000rpm to fire an injector...a couple extra ms of delay isnt exactly a good thing...it can put the injector timing out of phase with the intake cycle...i know with an aftermarket system like haltech you can phase the injectors and ignition seperately from each other to improve lower rpm fuel ecomony and emissions.. but other systems dont have this feature...so the delay couldnt be compensated for </TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesn't the ECU pull the ignition event from the cam sensors in the distrib, so you can phase the signal by moving the distrib forward or back... unfortunately no way to check exactly how many ms per degree

IIRC J. Davis knows more about this, I just surf around and read his posts, haha

Just had another brainwave: I would assume that by feeding a high current and slamming the injector open you'd compensate for losing a couple ms on the injector opening event as opposed to having the injector open more slowly as with a conventional resistor box setup. Soooo... kind of a non-issue IMO, at any rate.

I am very much hoping smarter guys than me will continue to post in this thread

96 GSR-T

I was also wondering this since we are getting technical, on RC's website it states that the "Peak & Hold" injectors are specifically rated @ 2.5/3 ohms and the "Saturated" are rated @ 12/16 OHMS. Since so many of us run these universal resistors boxes that we buy for $20....... What is the actualy resistance that these boxes have? The saturated ones have a pretty high varyance between the ohm's rating and the peaks are within .5 of an OHM or is this not a big deal.

2k.civic.si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Doesn't the ECU pull the ignition event from the cam sensors in the distrib, so you can phase the signal by moving the distrib forward or back... unfortunately no way to check exactly how many ms per degree
:</TD></TR></TABLE>

problem is the delay would be linear...some cars dont have a distri especially newer ones (electronic ignition)...and most ecu's dont have the ability to phase the timing and fuel seperately

oh one more thing i thought of....the longer the wire to the injector the more delay...granted very small difference...but when your working in millionths of a second it all adds up...