dadrought6

I have finally made a plan instead of doing b20/vtec to do b20 boost. the motor is in a 96 DC and my buddy has almost a full kit for that car he wants to sell me for a great price. its a t3/t4 garret turbo, i dont know what size spring the kit has for psi levels, but i dont wana go any higher than 10 pounds. i wana leave it stock internals, seeing as it only has 84k miles and im on a tight budget. but ive heard from some people its risky to run a b20 on that much boost, cause the sleeves cant handle it. should i be worried if i wana go for 10 pounds? its gonna be a dd too so its not like i can abuse the car often. i know i need to have a good tune and also if the car is obd2 and i run a jumper harness for an obd1 ecu, is there a choice of dsm injectors i can run? The missing link they bolt up under the map sensor- do they use that so you dont have to run a 3 or 4 bar map sensor? i wana do this right so i know i can have fun with the car, but have something reliable at the same time so i was hoping yall could help get me started in the right direction. thanks for any help!

HackeN

The sleeves will be fine. Stock sleeves can handle a LOT more than what most people think. Also considering it's a daily driver it most likely won't see insane amounts of boost or power that would put the stock sleeves in danger. Just get it a tune before anything.


Don't really know much about that stuff. I pulled blue tops out of a dsm & w/ 7-9psi on my D16Z6 they were running HIGH 90's% duty cycle at full boost. I'm sure they have different levels of em though for the different engines (Eclipse, 3000GT, Evo & whatever else).

xander1100

RC has an injector size calculator on their website, i'd use that.
b20's are already a pretty low compression vehicle so dont need to worry about that. ARP head studs never hurt and are pretty cheap if you want a little bit of a safeguard against boost.

dadrought6

ok well i used that table and seeing as im shooting to make anywhere between 220-250 hp at no more than 10 psi, the 440's seem to be the best choice. i did more research and found the company, Precision who puts out injectors as well. anyone used these before? they are cheaper than the RC's and like i said, im on a budget lol. also if my car is obd2 and i wana tune on the ecu in the car now (p75) id go with high impedance injectors right? if i got a jumper harness and tuned on a obd1 ecu, would i still use high impedance injectors or do i have to run low impedance injectors? the only 440's offered by Precision were high impedance so id like to know. also the turbo im buying is a garrett t3/t4 which was in a kit for a integra. thats a hybrid right? its been sitting for a while so im contemplating on rebuilding it and i need to know whether i need a dynamic or composite style seal if i indeed rebuild it. thanks!!!

gameoverr9696

dont go with a missing link get a omni 3 or 4bar map it will plug in just like stock

CoreyR

for 11 psi or less you dont need anything other then a stock map sensor. do not use a POS missing link.

you need injectors that dont require a resistor box, or you have to install one. the ecu has nothing to do with whether you need high or low impedence injectors. you can use dsm 450's without a problem you just need to wire in a resistor box from a 88-91 civic/integra or accord. theres plenty of write ups. if your going to buy new injectors you may as well go with the biggest injector you can get for the same price as the smaller.

i would not recommend rebuilding the turbo yourself, itll most likely fail very shortly after. either send it to a rebuilder or leave it alone. they dont go bad from sitting around.

you cant tune obd2 ecu's anyways so the one in the car has to go and youll need a jumper and an obd1 ecu.

dadrought6

ok well thats cool cause high impedance injectors dont use resistor boxes so i can use the precision 440's which is what imma go with i believe. i talked to kid who has it all and he said he kept the kit in his room indoors and there is no shaft play at all so im not gonna rebuild it. and yes, its not gonna see any more than 10 pounds so if its ok ill stick with my stock map sensor. hes givin me the turbo, intercooler, piping, bov, wastegate, boost controller and turbo timer for 350 bucks. awesome deal so i gotta make sure i get everything i need to do this the right way

dadrought6

talked to the kid more about it today, asked him about the downpipe cause he said it was kinda hacked up and i asked him if it was a 4 or 5 bolt style and he said neither. he said it just slides over the turbo and clamps on with a big clamp. hmmm..i looked at the pictures of it and it looks like thats how it is but i just donno if thats something someone else has seen or not

dadrought6

i dont wana get something i cant use!

xander1100

got a set of dsm 440s for sale if you wanna buy a used set for pretty cheap. PM me if u want them.
thats a Vband clamp that the guy has for the downpipe.

dadrought6

pm sent. thanks for the info

beseman

b20s work fine. had mine turbod for like a year almost now and im getting it retuned saturday with a new set up. Go check the b18b/b18a thread, theres tons of useful information on NONVTEC boosted motors and some very knowledgeable people who frequent that thread. and dsm 450s are good till about 250hp i believe, just read through that thread heres a link if ur lazy https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/lst-ls-t-turbo-b18a-b18b-setups-1323059/

dadrought6

yeah ive read over a few of the setups on that thread...its good stuff. but thats good to hear yours has lasted you a year. i gotta have it reliable ya know

CivSiClone_96

ive had my b20 boosted for 3 months now so far not one problem im also using a Vband clamp downpipe works good, mine is just on 10 pounds right now, I blew my seals in my turbo so im waiting on a new turbo. Once i get that i will be re-tuning on 12 pounds. Gl with ur build just get a tune ASAP!

dadrought6

I went and checked it out yesterday. the turbo says XS POWER as well as the intercooler. Any thoughts on that? also, the boost contoller was by Apex, fully electronic, does that wire into the ecu? the turbo timer was by GReddy, lol all directions in japanese, so yeah does that wire into the ecu as well? i inspected each one of the fins on both sides and the interior walls of the turbo. everything looked good. i checked for in and out and side to side shaft play and both ways it was at the most my guess a millimeter. i didnt have anything to measure it, but it was extermely slight.

like i said though...it was sitting in his house for about 6-7 months now and there is no oil in it. i spun it and there is no binding or wobbling at all, it spins verrry freely. He is a very good friend of mine and he told me many people who vouched for it when he bought it and who still will. he never put it on cause he decided to do all motor instead and hes really hookin me up in my opinion. should i be worried about that shaft play? like i said, there was no oil in it and i know those bearings ride on oil...yall lemme know whats up.

thanks

dadrought6

bumpskies

dadrought6

bump

dadrought6

no one has any input? i dont wana go buy somethin thats gonna crap out on me in a week

fast2camciv

more reading, less posting. all the info is out there...nobody is going to spoon feed you the info.

search.

dadrought6

i can understand that definately. i just thought the shaft play was something people on here would comment on. it never hurts to hear other peoples opinions and i respect everyones who posts on this forum.

dadrought6

question...do i have to run a boost controller? if i've got the 7 lb. spring i want in my wastegate is it absolutely necessary to run a boost controller on top of that? or is its advantage just to be able to adjust boost levels easily?

beseman

ill help ya bc ur doin a b20 turbo and are from VA lol.

the turbo and intercooler sound fine, not the highest quality but u said ur on a budget so they will do. im not sure about the boost controller install so i wont say anything about that but u can ask ur tuner about it in detail. u should be able to download installation instructions for the boost controller and turbo timer from their respective manufacturer's websites. and the turbo timer does not wire into the ecu. the turbo sounds like it is in good condition and i wouldnt worry about it crapping out on you, especially since u can trust the guy. as far as needing the boost controller, if you want to run any higher boost than your spring is rated then u need the controller. If you want to just run 7psi then dont get the boost controller and run boost just from the spring in your wastegate.

who are you going to get to tune your car, which if u havent realized is the most important part of your turbo build? I can recommend a really good tuner, who is also a friend, i have been using for 3+ plus years now if you want, but u would have to travel to richmond to get it tuned.

any other questions?

dadrought6

thank you man.

I did some research today. i couldnt really find anything on the boost controller but since you said its not needed because no, i really have no intentions of adjusting above what the spring is rated for, i wont use it. It looks like the turbo timer runs into the ignition, duh lol.

I was referred to a guy in my area actually about a month ago. his name is Chris Coles and he runs a shop out of his huge garage-innovative auto. he was very professional and i talked to him in person and saw some things he built. he said he was in tuner magazine i think was what he said and his uncle vouched for him. He said he could tune on anything and if i paid for it, had a dyno to put it on but we didnt talk prices.

I'm really open to any suggestions as far as tuning goes because i want my **** right ya know lol. I've heard of one guy in richmond, Matt Shu i think is his name, and I've heard nothing but good about him.

beseman

yea matt is who has done my cars for years. id highly recommend him as would everyone i know around here. he now tunes at adrenaline on their dyno. adrenalineautoworks.com is thier site so u can check it out yourself.

dadrought6

oh ok well thats cool bro. im throwing a cel for a evap system malfunction though, would he still tune it with that light on cause i heard he wont touch anything if it has a check engine light on