zojirushi

Ok, my turbo install is going no where... my hands are all cut up and i'm very fustrated. Every time i think i'm progressing, there seems to be anothing thing in the way. This time its this very messed up bolt... Its one of the bolts that hold the stock headers to the engine block. its the bolt near the a/c compressor. Now, i stripped the crap out of it by accident... now i realize that my downpipe won't bolt on with that bolt in place. Now the question, how do i remove a really stripped bolt?????????

also... now it looks as if my oil return line may be too short. GRRRR

help? suggestions? flaming?? whatever, u got it, i'll take it.

ceemarun

hang in there man. my install took me 3 weeks, and yesterday (typical day), i worked from 11am to 1 am. about the stripped screw, i dunno how shops do it, butt they can. if you cant move your car, i dunno. i hope someone else on here can help you out tho.

filetofit

Take a grinder or a file and grind/file new wrench flats onto the head of the bolt and then put a wrench on the new flats.

PS I think headers are usually held on the block with a nut and stud rather than a bolt. If its a nut they have nut splitter tools than can break the nut into two pieces without screwing up the threads on the stud.


[Modified by filetofit, 8:55 PM 7/12/2002]

bigTom

iv stripped on of those before... but the nut off... u may mess up the stud but u should replace it anyway... so just do it that way

apexii

Get some easyouts. Can be found at any automotive supply store.

zojirushi

its not the stud... its towards the bottom of the headers. Thanks for the replys...

i was thinking of using a dremel and grinding down the top. Acutally, the thing thats in the way is the bracket the bolt is holding onto the block. I wish i could take pictures... but no digi camera

mntdewred

zojirushi

what exactly is easyouts? that some sort of spray?

BigMoose

Easy outs are usually used to remove bolts or studs that you have broken off approximately flush with the surface that they are screwed into.

What you do is drill down the center of the broken bolt, almost taking the threads then you insert the easy out and turn it out. The easy out has a left hand 4 flute spiral so as you turn it out, the easy out screws into the drilled out bolt.

Easy outs are not cure alls. I have broken them off in the bolt, then you have a real mess, because the easy out is hardened steel. Forget the drill now.

Now to share my secret recipe with Honda Tech I have had a lot of trouble with steel bolts in aluminum blocks, heads and manifolds in my time. I used every penetrating oil on the market. PB Blaster, Kroil....etc. But I hereby share BigMoose's Blaster. 1 part virgin lard, 9 parts acetone. Mix it up. And apply liberally. As usual let it sit a bit. This stuff penetrates anything. Keep in mind this stuff is extremely flammable. Don't slop it on after using the heat wrench.

Good luck.

Regards,
BigMoose

ion_four

I had a broken stud in my turbo manny; my manager at work said he could take it out with an easy-out, but then he broke it off in there! So, I took it to a couple machine shops, they all said "no" and took it to Midas, had them weld a nut onto it and try to back it out, but it kept coming undone...one place could use some weird ultrasonic immersion bath to pulverize the stud...but it would cost $50! So, I friggin took it back to work and cranked on it with the drill press, kept stepping up sizes of bits and after about an hour got it mostly out, tried to use an easy-out, again and ended up breaking the handle this time! But, I was able to rethread it to the same threading.

So, even though the Pro's said it couldn't be done, I did it. I think having it really heated up by the welding attempt was a big help.

...just had to share