tony n.

sup
last night i was racing...and when i got done i parked...10mins later i notice there was a puddle of water around my car...so i open my hood and i notice my radiator hose came off (on the motor)...well i put it back in and put water in it and i ran again...the hose is half way off...i didn't know it build that much pressure?

any ideas?

s2kdre

thats a sign of headlifting, ur putting pressure in the coolant system

tony n.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats a sign of headlifting, ur putting pressure in the coolant system</TD></TR></TABLE>

how would i prevent this? can i still drive around? thx man
any more HELP?

tony n.

bum,p

dpetro1

well if your really are getting headlift then the best way to fix it would probably be some ARP headstuds. it should be ok to drive around for now, maybe stay off the boost though

SOHCD16y8

yes you can still drive it around but I would stay out of boost if it were me. A new Hg and ARP headstuds will fix that problem right up.

tony n.

what if i don't change it and boost what would be damage? if my head was lifting....would my car be smokin or be running hot?

ProjectDarkBlack

it would have the same effect as a blown headgasket, and your headgasket is most likely blown by now

tony n.

how is it blown when my car runs fine the car temp is fine and i dont see no smoke from the exhaust?

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

because its not severe enough to show symptoms until your in boost. if you dont correct the problem now it will get worse.

dpetro1

well before you go pulling the head off maybe you could get a radiator shop to test your coolant for combustion chamber gases. that will tell you for sure then you can go ahead and do a new headgasket and headstuds.

Civicman86

listen to these guys. It will get worse. I had almost the same problem. I kept pushing air into the coolant system under boost. I could drive all day out of boost with no probs. I overheated one time. Then for about 3-4 months I never had a problem again. All of a sudden the car kept wanting to overheat even with minimal boost. You mine as well fix it now before something could break. Learn from my mistakes

tony n.

what cause this to happen to my motor?

stealthmode62

I'm having the same issue on my 91 integra. I just turbo'd it with 235k on it, and in boost I get a nice little layer of smoke in the cabin. It smells like coolant burning. I checked the rad. hoses and they're all puffed up like a busted lip.
No overheating, no problems driving. I figured I'd put ARP headstuds on it with new headgasket, but what I'm really itching to do is torque the head bolts another 10ft/lbs. and see if I can pull it off the easy way.

It's all about "turbo specs" when torqueing things.

m R g S r

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted2Cam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what cause this to happen to my motor? </TD></TR></TABLE>

oem headstuds possibly

whats the difference...im selling arp head studs for $60 shipped. a new oem HG is like 70 bucks.

problem solved. pm me if you want the headstuds....they were only torqued once. BTW..I ran high compression and turbo and NEVER had a sealing issue with these.

tony n.

after runnin the car are the radiator hose suppose to be hard to squeeze?

TurboCoop

You got the answer you wanted at the beginning of this thread, why are you still asking questions? Your head is lifting under boost cause you have the shitty stock head bolts. Buy a new oem HG and some ARP head studs and you will be fine..... for the 5th time.

tony n.

why da hell u reply to my **** then

m R g S r

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboCoop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Buy a new oem HG and some (m R g S r's) ARP head studs and you will be fine..... for the 5th time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nonvtecD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted2Cam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after runnin the car are the radiator hose suppose to be hard to squeeze?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is a radiator hose supposed to be hard to squeeze? Do you know how a cooling system works. It's pressurized yes it's hard to squeeze. If you get a headgasket and new studs I would also recommend getting the head checked for warping.

dpetro1

hey guys do you think that its possible he may be getting too much pressure due to a bad radiator cap? maybe it isnt opening and causing pressure build up.

Boosted2Cam - how does your res tank look? is it full? empty? losing coolant? overflowing?

tony n.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpetro1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys do you think that its possible he may be getting too much pressure due to a bad radiator cap? maybe it isnt opening and causing pressure build up.

Boosted2Cam - how does your res tank look? is it full? empty? losing coolant? overflowing? </TD></TR></TABLE>

res tank? coolant is full doesnt loose any...

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

Is it possible that his hoses and clamps need to be replaced? I'm in a similar situation, but just have leaks. I have ARP head studs which were NOT re-torqued, and an OEM headgasket, but I also have a 19-21 psi radiator cap that came with my radiator. C&R told me that pressure was possibly being introduced into the system by either a cracked sleeve or the head lifting. I'm going to try new hoses and clamps.

By the way, a while ago I bought a fluid tester from NAPA (Balkamp?) that would detect combustion chamber gasses when the fluid changes from yellow to blue. However, it didn't fit the neck of my radiator. Where can I find one that works for smaller radiators?

Boosted2Cam, what confuses me is that your hose blew off before overflowing your reservoir. Is it possible that your radiator cap isn't functioning properly? You say it's full, but mine goes up when warm, and down when cool.

dunkd

maybe the hose clamp just came loose? the coolant system builds a ton of pressure even when there are no problems.

tony n.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USE2B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it possible that his hoses and clamps need to be replaced? I'm in a similar situation, but just have leaks. I have ARP head studs which were NOT re-torqued, and an OEM headgasket, but I also have a 19-21 psi radiator cap that came with my radiator. C&R told me that pressure was possibly being introduced into the system by either a cracked sleeve or the head lifting. I'm going to try new hoses and clamps.

By the way, a while ago I bought a fluid tester from NAPA (Balkamp?) that would detect combustion chamber gasses when the fluid changes from yellow to blue. However, it didn't fit the neck of my radiator. Where can I find one that works for smaller radiators?

Boosted2Cam, what confuses me is that your hose blew off before overflowing your reservoir. Is it possible that your radiator cap isn't functioning properly? You say it's full, but mine goes up when warm, and down when cool.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

before overflowing my reservoir? this is what happen....after i ran...i saw a lot of water....but then again my overflow was still full....but the radiator was almost empty cuz of the hose comin off from the motor...any ideas? what radiator cap should i use and where can i get one? i havea stock radiator..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dunkd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe the hose clamp just came loose? the coolant system builds a ton of pressure even when there are no problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>


im thinkin i just need longer hose...its kinda short...maybe the motor rocked so back it kinda pulled the hose away...