Icefrogg

I did searching but couldn't find answers...

My goal is to be at 300whp....this car is a weekend driver not meant for track only. Currently car has a b18b1 in it.

Parts I have:
b16 head
golden eagle lsv kit
arp gsr bolts
walbro 255 fuel pump
p30 with s200 (down the road I will probably upgrade to s300)
acl bearings
eagle rods
ebay turbo kit (I plan to run it, knowing that it won't last forever but to upgrade parts off the kit as I go, probably manifold first)

Parts to still be bought:
gsr/type r water pump / timing belt
injectors
pistons

first question
My plan is to take the car to the shop to get the lsv conversion done. should I do just the lsv, break it in and then go back and get turbo kit put on? or do it all at once? I kind of want to do it all at once because when they do the conversion I want them to do the rods and pistons while the motor is apart. And I'm not sure how the car will run on low compression pistons designed for a turbo car running n/a. so what would you guys recommend?

second question
as far as pistons go, I am going to go with some wiseco pistons. One thread I read said to use vtec pistons over non vtec pistons because of clearance issues. but on wiseco sight they have a pdf which specifies using non vtec b18 pistons with b16 head. so just wanted to make sure I get the right type. (http://wiseco.com/Catalogs/SportCompact/AcuraHonda.pdf) another confusing thing is they list like 3-4 different compression ratios for the pistons. How do I know which one it is. Also should I go with a 8.3-8.6 compression ratio (i guess play it safe) or a 9.3-9-8 compression ratio

My main concern is I don't want to buy something that is the wrong part and then have to take a loss on it trying to sell on ebay or such.

Third question
what size injectors would you recommend. would some rc550's be good enough for what I want to accomplish?

Thanks in advance. I think the hardest part is with mixing two different motors and figuring out what fits and what's needed. I see a lot of lsv write ups but thats on how to build a n/a setup. not to many write ups for turbo lsv setups.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Why LSV for only 300whp? And yes 550s will be ok.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

VTEC / Non-VTEC pistons don't exist. Its a matter of compression with the LSV conversion you're doing. That's why you go down the LSV list on the Wiseco part catalog. Those will give you the general compression ranges you need to go turbo. Stay above 9.0:1, and you're fine.

The writeup you're seeing is for a basic stock engine LSV setup. Going turbo doesn't change anything from any other turbocharged B-series engine, except that you have to take into account your cylinder head oiling situation.

Some use an LSV kit (like Golden Eagle) and use the Sandwich plate method to feed the cylinder head, then use an oil sending unit block/adapter oil feed setup to feed the turbocharger. This is the most common method.

Building the bottom end is no different than anything else. I think you've become a bit dependent on write-ups to answer all your questions. Googling the rest with site:Honda-Tech.com makes things easier for any other future standard questions.

Icefrogg

so why should I stay above 9.0:1? whats wrong with the 8.5 range? I mean what because it takes more psi to get higher hp then something in the 9's?

Yeah I bought the goldeneagle kit as research I found seems like nobody really had anything bad to say about it.

I wouldn't say I'm dependent on write ups but the problem to me is you search google or hondatech...
A. I'm searching for what type of turbo pistons for lsv and most of the threads just state what people are using but they don't go in to detail about part numbers or why they chose it or details that I am looking for. Honda-tech has been around for so lot its very saturated with threads that when you search don't give the info you are looking for.

B. searching on google you get threads from 2006 or 2008 and such. I'm not saying things have changed completely but I feel like technology has definitely changed. I mean engines are engines and that won't change but the testing and learning from mistakes and figuring out what works best definitely has changed through the time.

Also man any input to my question about getting all the work done at once or in two parts?

Schister66

Low compression is a hedge against bad tuning/ low grade fuel. Now that we all have access to both good fuel and competent tuners with quality EMS's, there's no need to drop the compression lower than 9:1 in any case. Hell, i'd argue that 10:1+ is ideally where you'd like to be. This way you'll have better off-boost response and there's truly no downside...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Precisely. The days of staying with 8.5:1 compression to get "more boost" are long past. Especially when you don't know what turbocharger you're going to get if even it will be in an effective range at such low static compression. Running "more boost" with the lower compression doesn't do any good with today's new turbocharger and engine management platforms. If anything, they slow you down, get laggy in between gears, and don't allow the turbocharger and camshafts to perform its job.

That's because they don't need to get to specific part numbers. Like I said, there's no difference between a forged piston for a VTEC engine vs. one made for a NON-VTEC engine when it comes to piston selection.

I think what happens is that most people won't discuss details on some of these builds because 1), they may not no why either, just that the other guy that went a certain E.T, or did a certain performance feat used the same parts or 2), they know exactly what they're doing and decided that it wasn't necessary for them to elaborate on their reasoning. The rest of the parts list may make the reasoning "quite obvious" for those that know what to look for in a setup, and therefore it saves the additional keystrokes and time to state their logic.

Today, with infinite part numbers, several different purposes, and the invention of Instagram, few people will create truly informative build threads like they did in 2007 and before. So looking for an exact answer really isn't going to be in the cards. With companies like Mahle, CP, Wiseco, Arias, Ross, JE, SRP, and others with skin in the game, you have a lot of opinions, but not a lot of explanatory opinions.

What I've found over the years with LS/VTEC and B20/VTEC builds, be they used for naturally aspiration or turbocharger purposes, Wiseco seems to have the best (and most) options, including the use of different strength wrist pins for high compression (11.0:1+) turbocharger builds.


Not..exactly. Not in the way you would think. The areas that changed most for these builds from 2006 to present exist in the realm of:
Camshafts (specifically made for turbocharged B-series VTEC applications, including non-VTEC cylinder heads),

Turbochargers, (I won't even start with that list )

Fuel options: Be it the types of fuels available (i.e. Meth/water injection, C16, E85, and specific fuels like the FTW series), Fuel pumps, Regulators, fueling line kits, and injectors (People are using high z Bosch-style injectors (like Injector Dynamics, Fuel Injector Clinic, Grams, Kinny, and Deutchwerks) and are moving away from RC, Delphi and Rochester/Lucas style Low z injectors

Engine management Hardware/Software solutions.. They now have features that have the ability to operate like the more expensive solutions, with the normally more expensive solutions becoming more affordable. Those are the areas where you'll see the biggest changes, not anything with regards to procedure or building the bottom end.

You really can't put "part" of a turbo kit together, drive around and have some fun, just to save money for the rest of it. The only 4 areas where you can install now to get prepared for turbocharging is an upgraded clutch, tyres, and upgraded fuel pump, and upgraded brake system (Pads/rotors/fluid).. There's no point in trying to go fast, if you can't stop.

Everything else has to be installed at one time in order for it to work, including any pipes going into the exhaust system. You may need to either risk a drive or trailer to an exhaust facility to finish that portion up (depending upon the purpose of the car).

The best way is either one company to supply everything (only one or two of those left), or get items in "groups" to work with one another from a few companies.

You want to make sure everything works together. You get the "Hot parts" (Exhaust manifold, downpipe, dumptube and any accessories for it) from one company, and make sure that the turbocharger you plan to use works in conjunction for what those hot parts are designed to do.
The turbocharger and their specific lines and fittings from another company, making sure that it was designed for your "hot parts". And intercooler piping and Intercooler is the 3rd main group. Lastly, all your Software/Hardware, fueling materials, and where you're going to have it calibrated. (No eBay "flashes" will work. Even "basemaps" are designed to get you to a tuner, not drive around in.).

So, you have to look at those FAQs first, and look at particular builds with their goals. (There's easily 3 or 4 on the 1st page alone), but read between the lines, don't look for the "step-by-step" diary.. Very few of us do that anymore.

ls joker

nailed it.

Icefrogg

I understand what your saying about having all the pieces. That's my plan to get all the pieces. My question was once I have all the parts and I take it to the shop do I have them do the lsv and turbo at same time or do the lsv and just that and wait til that's broke in then turbo later.

As far as the four things you mentioned I have done all of that already.

But thanks for all the info man.

ls joker

once its built and dialed in, its no diffence in break in from another engine. i just prime my turbos and check for leaks. sounds like a personal perfrence