AllMotorITR

Ok, so here is it... Could someone take the time to explain to me what the difference is between all three, and what they each do!? sorry for the long question!

Crossett

Dry= nitrous injected in the air intake tract

Wet=nitrous and fuel injected in the air intake tract

Direct Port=nitrous and fuel injected into each individual runner in the intake manifold.

immortal

which makes direct port the 'safest' option. all are safe if done correctly, but there is less chance of error with the direct port because fuel distribution would be perfect. you can also run a bigger shot with direct port.

AllMotorITR

I have 2 scenarios for my R:

1 - All motor setup (Jun 3s, Jun ecu, etc) and a 50 shot direct port.. OR

2 - possibly 50-70 shot direct port..

Could i run either of these nice and safe on my R?

MugenSi00

I'm a juice junky, but this link is the easiest way to explain since it contains pics.
http://www.so-calspeedshop.com/nos/tech/dryvswet.html

MugenSi00

1 - The min shot on a DP system is 75. You could go all motor and run nitrous at the same time, but it is extremely risky due to the increased compresion ratio. You would want to go with a smaller wet kit if you go this route. Upgraded ignition system with timing retard is needed...i.e. MSD Digital 6+. Several other small items are needed as well.

2 - 75 shot DP on stock motor is fine. Upgraded ignition system with timing retard is needed...i.e. MSD Digital 6+. Several other small items are needed as well.

austrian type-R

How can I raise the fuel preasure or let the injectors stay longer open with a universal dry kit? What kind of piggyback electronic is needed for this?

Mista Bone

Just get a ZEX system. It will use some of the NOS pressure to spike the fuel pressure by adding it onto the FPR.

13.5 with a ZEX kit in a SOHC VTEC Civic.

austrian type-R

What do you mean? can you explain it better, please?

How does the FPR know, when nitrous is spraying?

GSRacer

go w/ scenaria #1. smaller amount of juice w/ more engine work.

MugenSi00

ok, to answer your question - the FPR is tricked into rising pressure from the fuel pressure riser. Basically, you tap into the vacuum hose and feed a small amount of nitrous into it. this increased pressure bumbs up the pressure. This method is used by all dry systems.

MugenSi00

I would go with NX, NOS, Venom, ZEX in that order. I personally went with NOS and never had a problem with it. Zex is known for having problems with the control box. It might be the easiest to install, but with it's simplicity, you chance more problems.

Suprdave

The fact that Nitrous doesn't like Compression is a myth.

It's all about tuning and enough fuel.

The Minimum Direct Port is 80 Shot (20hp Jets x 4).
Dry Shots should be used on N\A Motors.
Wet Shots should be used on Forced Inducted Motors.

If you wanna be safe, use a
Direct Port Setup on a Progressive Controller.
Window Switches @ ~3500 and before Redline.
MSD 6AL with a Soft Limiter.
Throttle Switch
Bottle Heater to keep it ~900-1100 PSI.
Larger Fuel Pump (Atleast a Walbro 255lhp High Pressure)
And Retard your base timing a few degrees.

Suprdave

austrian type-R

Which FPR do I need for it? Does it come with the universal dry kit? I have noe the AEM FPR and a Cartech FMU, but the Cartech goes out when my Haltech E6K and the 440cc are in!

Crossett

You are right that direct port is the safest option. The only problem with it is that you arent supposed to jet each cylinder smaller than a 20 shot, which would mean the smallest shot you could run wouldbe an 80. A jet smaller than 20 has a very good chance of getting clogged, which would be pretty bad.