jdtmustang

I have a 2000 accord I am thinking about putting a turbo on. I need to know other then buying the kit what else I might have to do to the block to hold about 10-12 lbs of boost Sorry everyone. Its a f23 motor

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I think what made your particular motor/chassis an "Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle" was simply that they put an EGR system on the motor... It's something I would delete/bypass when going turbo... as it contaminates the intake air charge with exhaust gasses, something bad for a turbo setup as it would lower the knock threshold, reduce power, and make tuning a bitch.

you would have to use an obd2b-obd1 conversion harness and use a chipped ecu to tune the car... so deleting the egr system won't cause any check engine lights or codes (it shouldn't on the stock ecu either)

we need info about this turbo kit... is it name brand or a Chinese eBay kit? what size turbocharger... what brand?, what style manifold, what brand and size wastegate, etc. if this is a Chinese eBay kit I wouldn't even waste the time putting it on the car. the manifolds crack, the wastegates fail, and the turbos fail constantly, I've even seen units broken right out of the box

as far as "prepping the motor", what power are you wanting to run? as psi is irrelevant, you pick a power goal and run whatever boost level it takes to make the power

is this accord auto or 5spd? if it's an automatic don't even waste your time... Honda's automatic transmissions aren't strong enough to take even the slightest bump in power without going boom

if it's a 5spd then here's the basics, other than the basic turbo kit (manifold, turbo, wastegate, intercooler piping, intercooler, blow off valve, does it have a downpipe? if not you'll need to have one made, 3" diameter piping preferably, you'll also need a dumptube for the wastegate outlet and some sort of boost controller*I'll cover two methods of boost control further down my post*, you also need to know what psi spring comes in the wastegate as standard or if you get a choice)

a set of ARP headstuds, this is basically mandatory for any boosted setup. you'll also need a new headgasket when you install the studs

you'll need an upgraded clutch (also a good time to do a lightweight flywheel if that's something you're considering)

upgraded fuel pump, a walbro 255 is all you need

bigger injectors, size depends on the power you're after

OBD2B-OBD1 conversion harness *as stated above

OBD1 chipped ecu - can be a p06 since you're non vtec but you can use a p28 or p72

software to tune car using the above chipped ecu - several options here, crome, crome gold, Neptune, Neptune RTP, Hondata S300, or you can always use the older Hondata systems. I'm sure I'm forgetting a few

boost controller. now there's two ways to do this. the simplest and cheapest is a manual boost controller, set it and forget it. will be slower building boost as it will gradually bleed pressure to the wastegate until target pressure is met, no way of controlling/limiting boost creep, etc

the other way is to get a mac (or similar solenoid like the GM boost control solenoid) and let the ecu control boost. this gives you lots of control and features.

you can do boost by gear to help traction issues
will build boost faster as it keeps the wastegate closed till the last second
you can set a boost cut to protect the motor
can control boost vs rpm
the list goes on but it is preferred over a manual controller

I would recommend a wideband to aid in tuning and monitor the engine for issues. a boost gauge and oil pressure gauge at minimum

in addition to the downpipe, you'll need a larger exhaust. 2.5" is the smallest I would ever run. a 3" exhaust is basically considered as standard these days on turbo Hondas

what kind of oil feed kit does the turbo kit come with? if it's the kind that uses the stock oil pressure sender port DO NOT USE IT. using that port means you're sending unfiltered oil to the turbo which can clog the small bearing oiling ports and cause bearing damage and seal failure. get a sandwich plate and run the feedline from there. the port on the sandwich plate supplies clean, filtered oil


I think that about covers the basics. there could be more I'm forgetting but I'm sure someone will chime in if that's the case

jdtmustang

I have not bought a turbo yet. I wanted to make sure its something that can be done and feedback on what kind to get so I am not blowing extra money. The head is already done with arp studs. Ported and polished. Cam was just gone threw also. All new timing belt system with water pump. I have a stage 2 clutch and lightened flywheel. Also I am vtec or atleast that's what I have read.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

what brand clutch? depending on brand, pressure plate pressure, disc type and friction material it might start slipping depending on how much torque you make

I'll research the B23 a bit and see if I can help you with detailed answers for things like finding a turbo manifold, sizing a turbo, etc.

you just need to pick a power goal before we can even begin to size a turbo and tell you if your goal is feasible

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

although I've never heard of a B23. It's not in any Honda motor list and definitely doesn't exist
your model accord came with an f18b, f20b or an H22a..

their should be a block code on the block, below the head on the transmission side of the motor. It's a large flat spot. tell me what that says and post a pic

I don't think you know exactly what motor you have (mo offense intended)

jdtmustang

motor is a f23A4 its a 2.3 ulev vtec. Clutch is a xtd stage 2 with a light weight 10 lbs flywheel. It said it can hold up to 289 h/p. My motor right now is pushing 165 right now and I would like to make it about 240-260 maybe a little more is I don't have to do a lot more to the motor. If I have to change the clutch again that's not a problem. I can sell mine to my brother

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

yea the title says b23 lol

clutches are rated by torque capacity (at least that's the proper way) not sure what a clutch rated for horsepower would actually hold as far as torque, since that's what the clutch has to transfer to the driveline, horsepower is just a mathematical equation from torque and rpm.

might want to double check that

jdtmustang

torque is 268 sorry I thought I put both in the first one.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

it's all good, 250hp is within reac but it will take some work, as the f series motors don't have the greatest cylinder heads... especially with you have the ULEV motor... they have more restrictive intake manifolds and the head itself is more restrictive due to port design and size.

do you know the letter and number after the F23 on the block code? it should be one of the following

F23A1
F23A4
F23A5
F23A7

I'm guessing it should be an A4 block due to the ULEV rating...

here's info on the base F23A1 on which all other F23AX(X) variants are based

F23A1

This engine was used in the 1998-2002 Honda Accord LX, EX, and SE, LEV models, and in the Acura 2.3CL in North America.

Acceleration (0-60) for the 4-cylinder models is improved (around the mid-9-second mark), with comparable fuel efficiency to its predecessor: 23 mpg/city and 30 mpg/hwy for LX and EX models with automatic transmissions.Emissions of Non-Methane Organic Gases (NMOG), also known as unburned hydrocarbons, produced during engine warm-up are considerably lower.

The LX and EX engines produce less than 0.0075 grams per mile, qualifying them for California LEV (Low-Emission Vehicle) status. In California, the Accord EX with the available automatic transmission will produce less than 0.003 grams per mile of NMOG, qualifying it as the first gasoline-powered vehicle to reach ULEV (Ultra-Low Emission Vehicle) status.The five-main bearing block is high-pressure die-cast from aluminum alloy.

The walls of the block extend below the centerline of the crankshaft, which helps stiffen the bottom end. FEM (Finite Element Method) computer analysis was used to arrive at optimum thicknesses for the block ribs and walls in order to minimize engine vibration.Additional bottom-end rigidity comes from a larger, stronger bearing-cap beam that ties directly into the cylinder-block skirt.An aluminum-alloy stiffener has been added between the transmission case and the block, just behind the bearing carrier. The stiffener serves to tie the block and transmission together into a single, reinforced unit. FEM was also used to design this stiffener so that it would not only stiffen the area, but also help minimize high-frequency engine vibration.Finite-element analysis of the Accord's piston design by Honda engineers yielded a new ultra-short, lightweight skirt design, which is very rigid and resistant to vibration and piston slap.

Like the V-6 engine the pistons are gravity-cast aluminum alloy and utilize full-floating wrist pins in order to minimize noise.The engine's drop-forged single-plane steel crankshaft and connecting rods have been designed to be stronger and operate with less friction, much like the V-6 components.The I-section, drop-forged steel connecting rods have a completely new design and are considerably lighter than their predecessors (475 g vs. 578 g), which helps to minimize vibration. Pin-journal (big end-bearing journal) diameter has been reduced from 48 mm to 45 mm. Rod thickness is down from 24 mm to 20 mm and the bolt size is smaller. Like the V-6 rod bolts, those of the 4-cylinder engine are torqued to the plastic region of the bolt material in order to ensure a solid union between the bearing cap and the connecting rod.

The engine block incorporates the Honda-designed second-order balance system that cancels the inertial forces common to large-displacement 4-cylinder engines. The system consists of two parallel shafts on either side of the crank-shaft, 81 mm (3.19 in.) above its centerline. Driven by a toothed belt, the balance shafts rotate in opposite directions at twice engine speed. Eccentric weights built into the shafts generate inertial forces that counteract the second-order forces created by the motion of the pistons and connecting rods. This Honda system minimizes vibration in the mid-to-high-rpm range.

Cylinder Head

The 16-valve, single-overhead-camshaft cylinder head features 4 valves per cylinder and pentroof combustion chambers. Individual valves are smaller and lighter in 4-valve heads, which allows the engine to be revved to a higher rpm, helping to extend the engine's power range. Valve actuation is via rocker arms and a hollow, belt-driven single overhead camshaft. The single-over-head-camshaft design requires less under-hood space than the more conventional dual overhead camshafts normally used with 16-valve, 4-cylinder engines.The adoption of a sophisticated knock control system optimizes ignition timing and allows for a higher compression ratio (9.3:1 from 8.8:1). Unleaded regular fuel is specified.

Revised Intake System

The intake system was simplified in shape to reduce induction resistance and noise. A larger twin-chambered air box designed to dampen resonant intake tract noise replaces the previous Accord's smaller, single-chamber damper. The new box is 10.7 liters in capacity, compared to the older unit's 8.2 liters. The larger box also eliminates the need for a second resonant-frequency damper and an additional side branch.

The 2.3-liter Accord 4-cylinder engine intake manifold has been redesigned to add more power and lower emissions. The individual cast-aluminum runners have revised dimensions to better take advantage of the different air-flow characteristics of the 2.3-liter engine. A larger plenum chamber reduces induction noise and the incorporation of EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) ports into the plenum, upstream of the throttle plates, eliminates the need for a separate fitting and port in each intake runner.

Low Speed Operation

During low-rpm operation, only one intake valve opens, allowing air and fuel into the combustion chamber. The other intake valve has only a slight amount of lift and its timing is staggered. As a result, the air-fuel charge drawn through the open intake valve undergoes a swirl effect. The swirl creates a stratified charge with a rich mixture near the spark plug (for good light-off), and a progressively leaner mixture toward its periphery. This stratified charge, combined with improved EGR control, results in lower emissions (especially during the critical warm-up period) and better fuel economy. Low-friction, roller-bearing rocker arms are used to help reduce friction and improve engine efficiency

Emissions

EX and LX engines qualify as California LEV (Low-Emission Vehicles)
EX with automatic transmission qualifies as ULEV (Ultra-Low Emission Vehicle) in California
Stratified-charge VTEC
Electronically controlled EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
ULEV engine uses 32-bit ECU with individual cylinder air-fuel ratio control, lean air-fuel ratio during fast idle, high-efficiency catalyst and low heat-mass exhaust system

NVH

Less radiated noise and vibration
Quieter, less restrictive induction system with large, twin-chamber resonator
New lightweight piston and connecting-rod design minimizes vibration
More rigid crankshaft design
Second-order balance system
Redesigned cylinder block is more rigid with less vibration
Aluminum engine stiffener between engine and transmission

Transmission

Direct-control automatic transmission is controlled by PCM (Powertrain Control Module) for smooth shifting
Cruise control is controlled by PCM and AT Cruise ECU for smoother operation
Reduced gear noise
Manual transmission has reduced lining diameter for smoother shifting, with same level of fade resistance and durability

Valve Operation[edit]
Low-Speed Operation High-Speed Operation All Conditions
Primary Intake Valve Secondary Intake Valve Both Intake Exhaust Exhaust

Valve Timing

Valve Opens 24* ATDC 26* ATDC 0*TDC 30* BBBC
Valve Closes 23* ABDC 76* BBDC 36* ABDC 15* BTDC
Lift 7.0mm 1.8mm 10.0mm 9.0mm

Specifications[edit]

2.3L MFI 4CYL
Bore × Stroke: 86.0 × 97.0 mm
Displacement: 2254 cc
Valve Configuration: SOHC, 16 valves, VTEC
Compression ratio: 9.3:1
Max power: 150 hp (112 kW) @ 5700 rpm
Max torque: 152 lb·ft (205 N m) @ 4900 rpm

Heres what changes with the ULEV motor you have

F23A4
This engine was used in the 1998-2002 Honda Accord ULEV models. It is substantially similar to the F23A1, but features ULEV certification with a slight reduction of power: 148 hp (108 kW) with a maximum torque of 150 lb·ft (203 Nm). This engine has a different exhaust manifold, a more restrictive intake manifold and cylinder head, and a 32-bit ECU which uses an AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) oxygen sensor when compared to the F23A1

ferio-ichi3

Holy massive info^ good stuff to know!

jdtmustang

That is a lot of good info. So from what I am reading it sounds like, if I want the 250 I am going to have to spend a lot of money on this car to make it. So please tell me what I am looking at to make this 250? Dollar amount. If this is going to take way to much money I might just go look for a older civic with a b18 or something like that.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I try to help out

as far as cost, that all depends on what parts and brands you buy, new or used, etc... it all depends on how you want to do the build.

for example using a full race manifold would cost significantly more than an AFI or similar companies manifold.

also turbo choice is a big expense. do you want a new Garrett gt-r or gtx unit? maybe you get one used. or maybe you go with a new or used journal bearing turbo, like a t3-t04e turbo... maybe you buy an entry level precision turbo.. new or used (i wouldn't, personally) same goes for every turbo brand.

do you buy new or used injectors, wastegate, engine management, etc.

it all comes down to personal preference as far as brand, what product line, new or used components, and how mild or wild you want your setup to be

so no one can really pinpoint an exact dollar figure

I would estimate between 2500-3000 dollars using a mix of new and used name brand, quality parts. plus you have to factor in the cost of tuning the car, which could run 400-500+ dollars in addition to your parts budget.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

what concerns me are the lighter rods and pistons. they did this for emissions but it makes me question the motors ability to survive elevated cylinder pressures. but I am by no means an f series expert

you might want to look in the SOHC turbo setup thread, I know it's mostly d series stuff but there are some f series setups in there I think

if not, make a thread asking for help from people that have experience with turbo f23 motors.

jdtmustang

Thank you for all your help. You have no clue how much this helped. I do work at a junk yard that deals with crashed cars a lot so I know I can get some parts used and cheap to help out a little. But I don't want to be working on my car every weekend from stuff falling apart or breaking. I have also been looking into maybe a small shot of wet nitrous. Not my first choice but for the money it might work.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

if a 96-00 civic comes in with rear discs hit me up lol

ferio-ichi3

I swear, boost and shodan run the turbo section of h-t lol

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

it certainly seems that way doesn't it lol