Question about newly built motor. About piston rings sealing.. Experienced input please
#1
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Question about newly built motor. About piston rings sealing.. Experienced input please
I recently built a new B18A with .10 overbore JE 9.2:1, Eagle rods, new oem bearings, rings, etc..
It has about 350 miles on it now, and we are getting some blow by. Did a compression check and the numbers dry were 140, 145, 130, 150.
Then we did a wet compression check and the numbers were 150, 160, 155, 165.
So now, I'm thinking the rings were either gapped too big or the engine wasn't properly broken in. We basically didn't push the engine real hard when we first fired it up. Just mild driving, no pounding of the throttle at all.
After the effect, I realized that we should have mashed the throttle, so I'm leading to believe the rings aren't seated, since we are consuming a lot of oil in a short time.
I'm going to replace the piston rings, gap them and do some hardcore breaking in.
My questions to confirm, are, is it entirely necessary to have the block re-honed to ensure a proper seal with the new piston rings? Or, with having 350 miles on the engine, with inspection, the honing is fine?
And with .10 overbore, what would be the best ring gap? This engine's intentions is for obviously boost.
Thanks much..
It has about 350 miles on it now, and we are getting some blow by. Did a compression check and the numbers dry were 140, 145, 130, 150.
Then we did a wet compression check and the numbers were 150, 160, 155, 165.
So now, I'm thinking the rings were either gapped too big or the engine wasn't properly broken in. We basically didn't push the engine real hard when we first fired it up. Just mild driving, no pounding of the throttle at all.
After the effect, I realized that we should have mashed the throttle, so I'm leading to believe the rings aren't seated, since we are consuming a lot of oil in a short time.
I'm going to replace the piston rings, gap them and do some hardcore breaking in.
My questions to confirm, are, is it entirely necessary to have the block re-honed to ensure a proper seal with the new piston rings? Or, with having 350 miles on the engine, with inspection, the honing is fine?
And with .10 overbore, what would be the best ring gap? This engine's intentions is for obviously boost.
Thanks much..
#2
well..the proper thing to do would be to pull out the block and get it rehoned...i, being the lazy guy, would just replace the piston rings for now. worst case scenario, you see it's still burning oil and gotta pull the block out later.
did you stagger the ring gaps on alternate sides of the pistons to minimize oil burning??
did you stagger the ring gaps on alternate sides of the pistons to minimize oil burning??
#4
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Re: Question about newly built motor. About piston rings sealing.. Experienced input please (drvfast
That sucks man. I was too lazy to file the rings on my new motor. They were all pretty close to spec. I beat the **** out of it after it got warmed up and it's been perfect (155) across the board ever since.
You can do the hone yourself. Buy a ball hone, it's 30$... but like the above said... I wouldn't even bother.
Matt
You can do the hone yourself. Buy a ball hone, it's 30$... but like the above said... I wouldn't even bother.
Matt
#5
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Re: (sohcmasta)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcmasta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well..the proper thing to do would be to pull out the block and get it rehoned...i, being the lazy guy, would just replace the piston rings for now. worst case scenario, you see it's still burning oil and gotta pull the block out later.
did you stagger the ring gaps on alternate sides of the pistons to minimize oil burning??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, that was done. I was thinking of rehoning myself but unable to find one really of where to purchase, etc.
did you stagger the ring gaps on alternate sides of the pistons to minimize oil burning??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, that was done. I was thinking of rehoning myself but unable to find one really of where to purchase, etc.
#6
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Re: Question about newly built motor. About piston rings sealing.. Experienced input please (drvfast
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnyquest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That sucks man. I was too lazy to file the rings on my new motor. They were all pretty close to spec. I beat the **** out of it after it got warmed up and it's been perfect (155) across the board ever since.
You can do the hone yourself. Buy a ball hone, it's 30$... but like the above said... I wouldn't even bother.
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, do you know of a referance of where to purchase a ball hone?
BTW, what is your compression for the 155 psi?
You can do the hone yourself. Buy a ball hone, it's 30$... but like the above said... I wouldn't even bother.
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, do you know of a referance of where to purchase a ball hone?
BTW, what is your compression for the 155 psi?
#7
Honda-Tech Member
yeh those comp numbers seem alittle low..
not crazy low but alittle low
my d15b vtec when it was very healthy made 200psi, and its a 9:3 comp.
recently it did like 180 range..
but anyhoo, I'm not a big expert on this,
but I haven't ever heard of ppl mashing hard on their motor to break it in, I believe you're just supposed to run thicker oil and keep the rpms really low for the first few hundred miles.
heres a quote from c-speedracing.com
"Once the motor is back in its home, you can begin to button things up. Make sure you put engine and transy oil in before firing it up! We recommend running slightly thicker oil for the first 1000 miles of the break in period. Change the oil at 100miles, 500miles and again at 1000miles and your good to go. Then switch over to regular oil such at 5W30 or synthetic."
not crazy low but alittle low
my d15b vtec when it was very healthy made 200psi, and its a 9:3 comp.
recently it did like 180 range..
but anyhoo, I'm not a big expert on this,
but I haven't ever heard of ppl mashing hard on their motor to break it in, I believe you're just supposed to run thicker oil and keep the rpms really low for the first few hundred miles.
heres a quote from c-speedracing.com
"Once the motor is back in its home, you can begin to button things up. Make sure you put engine and transy oil in before firing it up! We recommend running slightly thicker oil for the first 1000 miles of the break in period. Change the oil at 100miles, 500miles and again at 1000miles and your good to go. Then switch over to regular oil such at 5W30 or synthetic."
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#8
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Re: (Tad)
It's a d16z6 w/ vitaras ( as said below, I beleive in my sig ) -- I calculated the compression to be somewhere about 7.8:1 - 8:1.
It drives great though, so I don't even care. y8 hg, too.
Matt
It drives great though, so I don't even care. y8 hg, too.
Matt
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Re: (D@nnY)
change the oil to some non detergent straight 30 weight. go and do some wide open throttle pulls 1st through 4th gear. when you redline fourth gear immediately push in the clutch and slow back down. do this 4 or 5 times. keep the oil in for at least 250 miles. this should seat the rings much faster. if they dont seat then you might have some other problems going on. good luck
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Re: (D@nnY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dingle ball hones should not be used on a honda block........</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have found exactly the opposite
I have found exactly the opposite
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