Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods?
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Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods?
I just need a price check on how much it would cost to put in pistons and rods. The motor is still in the car. So how much would it cost to pull out the motor, open it up, Bore it .5mm, hone, put the pistons and rods in and balance everything, and then put the motor back in?
Does $1,700 (Not including the pistons and rods) sound too much?
Does $1,700 (Not including the pistons and rods) sound too much?
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (BG Boost)
are you asking how much would a shop charge you? Or how much would it cost if you did the work yourself, aside from the machine work.
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (2K_TEG)
How much a shop would charge me. I asked one shop (wont release the name) and they wanted $1,700
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (Bryson)
Sounds about right.... But let me ask are you planning full out race and making 450+ whp? If not I dont see the point of pulling out the motor and using stock sleeves. If it was me and the motor is coming out then that byatch is getting resleeved and going with a lot larger bore. It would just plain suck to spend all that money and break a sleeve cause it was a stock one...btw The price you were quoted seems right....for the work
However if your like me and you plan 350 to 400 whp street driven non competition etc then leave the motor in the car...hondas and aftermarket pistons rods etc are well balanced....they can put the pistons and rods new bearings gaskets etc by pulling the oil pan and head..its been proven time and time again down here in sfla. Ive got 3000 happy miles on my motor not a drip of oil not a puff of smoke. I paid 750
I have a second GSR motor and that one i plan to go larger bore and resleeve etc...but Im going to push the limits of my motor right now first....alcohol inj/nos 400+ hp
[Modified by SO3Burner, 8:16 AM 7/14/2002]
[Modified by SO3Burner, 8:17 AM 7/14/2002]
However if your like me and you plan 350 to 400 whp street driven non competition etc then leave the motor in the car...hondas and aftermarket pistons rods etc are well balanced....they can put the pistons and rods new bearings gaskets etc by pulling the oil pan and head..its been proven time and time again down here in sfla. Ive got 3000 happy miles on my motor not a drip of oil not a puff of smoke. I paid 750
I have a second GSR motor and that one i plan to go larger bore and resleeve etc...but Im going to push the limits of my motor right now first....alcohol inj/nos 400+ hp
[Modified by SO3Burner, 8:16 AM 7/14/2002]
[Modified by SO3Burner, 8:17 AM 7/14/2002]
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (SO3Burner)
$750? Thats for labor + parts?...considering that the Bearings cost $200, headgasket costs like $100, etc... thats some CHEAP LABOR.
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (BG Boost)
$750? Thats for labor + parts?...considering that the Bearings cost $200, headgasket costs like $100, etc... thats some CHEAP LABOR.
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (BG Boost)
No the base price for labor was 750...the t.belt, w.pump, gaskets, arp, bearings pistons and rods were extra and bumped it up to 1000+ (I brought them the all the parts i.e. rods pistons etc). Like I said I dont see the point to pull the motor out if you are not going to resleeve and bore...it took sfp one day for the rebuild with motor in the car..their mechanic is a badass!
OF COURSE THIS IS ONLY WHAT MY OPINION IS...EVERYONE HAS A DIFFERENT OPINION OF HOW TO DO THINGS AND PEOPLE WILL DISAGREE
[Modified by SO3Burner, 6:54 PM 7/14/2002]
OF COURSE THIS IS ONLY WHAT MY OPINION IS...EVERYONE HAS A DIFFERENT OPINION OF HOW TO DO THINGS AND PEOPLE WILL DISAGREE
[Modified by SO3Burner, 6:54 PM 7/14/2002]
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (SO3Burner)
I was on a tighter budget than you (I think) but why not do it right first time and resleeve and bore to like a 2 liter. Lot more hp that way, lots more...thats what I plan to do after a year or so. (ive got a spare B18c1 and tranny)
If I was in your shoes I would do that BG boost.
Quote: $750? Thats for labor + parts?...considering that the Bearings cost $200, headgasket costs like $100, etc... thats some CHEAP LABOR. : Quote
Its a little cheaper BEarings are like 140 and headgasket is like 65
[Modified by SO3Burner, 7:32 PM 7/14/2002]
If I was in your shoes I would do that BG boost.
Quote: $750? Thats for labor + parts?...considering that the Bearings cost $200, headgasket costs like $100, etc... thats some CHEAP LABOR. : Quote
Its a little cheaper BEarings are like 140 and headgasket is like 65
[Modified by SO3Burner, 7:32 PM 7/14/2002]
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (SO3Burner)
Let's keep it nice and simple. What is your goal? Your hp range? Tell us then we will do the math for you.
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (Ltech)
I get charged $250.00 labor to have valves/springs/retainers installed on my head. $1700. I think I know who you are talking about. They are from Va right. I will talk to my boy tmorrow and let you know how much. I'll hook you up.
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (BG Boost)
Why dont u just take the motor out and bring it somewhere. Im sure it will be a lot cheaper. It only takes a couple hours to pull a motor out anywyas. I know u can do a motor swap.
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods?
I don't know what you guys are talking about... Depending on what is included.. $1700 not including pistons/rods is a good price. Here's a simple price breakdown for you guys.. Bore/hone/balancing (around $300), timing belt, bearings, another ($200), lower gasket set.. (around $200?), gsr/type-r oil pump, plus labor and other miscellaneous parts, that sounds just about right to me.
Assuming you're going to use the b20 block that you have, it's probably a good idea to get it sleeved if you're going to run alot of boost. If you do decide to keep the stock block, do it the right way. Pull the block and have it honed at a machine shop.
-Mike
Assuming you're going to use the b20 block that you have, it's probably a good idea to get it sleeved if you're going to run alot of boost. If you do decide to keep the stock block, do it the right way. Pull the block and have it honed at a machine shop.
-Mike
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (SlowTeg)
Pulling the motor out is no issue for me. I've done it, but its just too much time consuming (Work+School), and I no longer have the ghetto wooden engine hoist . I took it apart and used it as a swing set.
Anyways, stock sleeves are proved to be quite strong if its tuned well! I've ran 14 LBS on my LS block for over a year and never once did the stock sleeves failed. Only the stock piston ring lands gave up on that motor when It overboosted to 17-18 LBs because of my old delta wastegate.
Anyways, stock sleeves are proved to be quite strong if its tuned well! I've ran 14 LBS on my LS block for over a year and never once did the stock sleeves failed. Only the stock piston ring lands gave up on that motor when It overboosted to 17-18 LBs because of my old delta wastegate.
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (BG Boost)
here is a reputable builder.. i think his prices start at 1850 (engine removal and re-install NOT included in that price)
http://www.ericksracing.com/engines.htm
doing the work with the engine inside the car is even harder (more $$) b/c you gotta do all the work on your back.
you forgot sizing and clearancing bearings.
[Modified by BustaNutt-616, 5:52 AM 7/26/2002]
http://www.ericksracing.com/engines.htm
doing the work with the engine inside the car is even harder (more $$) b/c you gotta do all the work on your back.
you forgot sizing and clearancing bearings.
[Modified by BustaNutt-616, 5:52 AM 7/26/2002]
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (BG Boost)
Well.. it's completely upto you.. People "say" that the b20 sleeves are weaker than the regular b series.. It's hard to really say whether it's true or not. I don't have a sleeved block either (b18c), but if I was going to go all out and push high boost, I probably would've gotten it sleeved. Engine hoists are cheap.. only like $200...
-Mike
-Mike
#18
Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (SlowTeg)
I just got quoted at $1700 for labor to take my engine out, take it to a machine shop to get honed, and put new eagle rods and je pistons before reassembling it... AND I have to pay the machine shop rates for honing. Doesn't that seem ridiculously expensive considering it is only labor and NO parts?!?!?! Granted, its a decent shop near Seattle, but still I was expecting more like 1200ish w/o parts for the honing and everything. Oh yeah its a b18b
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (mskibbz)
Yeah its around $1,700 - $2,000 + to pull out the motor, dissaemble it, send it to a machine shop to get it bored/honed. then they have to assemble it and drop it back in.
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Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (blkDOHCsol)
I think 1700 is a little bit on the higher side of labor costs but it should better be quality work.
I figure avg going rates would be about
Remove/install engine around $500
Engine Dissasemble/Reassemble $400
Bore/Hone/Hot tank block, etc $200
Balance bottom end $200
I figure avg going rates would be about
Remove/install engine around $500
Engine Dissasemble/Reassemble $400
Bore/Hone/Hot tank block, etc $200
Balance bottom end $200
#22
Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (sparkz)
Thanks for breaking it down Sparkz I've got my trusty Helms but this is my daily driver so I'm going to just shell out and get it done right... It may cost more but it will give me some peace of mind, I'm already pretty much psycho about my car. More money that goes in the more paranoid I get, but still I love it
#25
Re: Price Check: Putting in pistons and rods? (Tired)
Things turned out okay, I called a local shop and they'll remove/install my engine and take it to a machine shop, hone, new bearings, hot tank, etc... for about 1400 - 800 for engine removal and reinstall, ~600 at the machine shop. Its a respected local shop so I've got faith that it'll get done right, anybody running higher than stock LS compression with turbo? I'm debating between 9.5:1 or 10:1, but leaning towards 10:1 with about 7-8 PSI daily