92redhatch

i recently purchased a precision 6765 billet t3 turbo for my 84x89 ls vtec. as soon as i install the turbo and begin tuning idle it starts smoking. i look at my downpipe and i see oil in it. so i new something was up with the turbo so i sent it back. now they tell me my turbo went bad because of oil contamination. im wondering how that can be possible since i do have an oil sandwich adapter(filtered oil) and i have a magnetic drain plug. i changed the oil before i installed the turbo and the drain plug had no metal shavings. what do you guys think my issue could be? i do not want this to happen again. i originally thought my turbo went bad due to to much oil pressure because i switched to a -4 line from a -3.

thanks
mike

heres some pics

ATSMATT

I had the same problem with my 6262. They didnt try and blame it on contamination but they did keep the thing for almost 3 months while they fixed it.

Matt

92redhatch

well they said i should get it back this week.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

A turbo that receives lubricating oil from an engine oil supply that is contaminated with abrasive material will experience accelerated wear of bearing surfaces that will eventually lead to rotating assembly contact with the housings and ultimately turbocharger failure. This can come from several areas.

Some sources of lubricating oil contamination include:
-engine bearing material from failed engine bearings,
-dirt introduced into the engine during major engine maintenance or even blast material (i.e., glass beads and/or sand) that was introduced into the engine/ cylinder head assembly during the rebuild process that was not properly removed during the cleaning process.
Most enthusiasts like yourself rely on the engine oil filter to remove these contaminants after they are introduced in the system. But you have to remember that the engine oil filter is designed to bypass the filter element under certain conditions (i.e., cold start or high RPM/high oil pressure conditions) in order to make sure that the engine receives lubrication. Under these conditions, unfiltered oil is circulated throughout the engine lubrication system including the turbocharger, and can still allow contaminated oil to reach the center housing assembly.

In your case, Precision probably looked at your turbo and found that at some point in time it received lubricating oil contaminated with abrasive foreign material. The signs that should this has occurred are the considerable grooving and wear of all bearings surfaces.

Be lucky that they may have repaired this for you without charge this time around. This "courtesy" does not occur often, so if it doesn't come back this week, don't bitch about it. ;-)

92redhatch

i just dont want it to happen again. ive had other turbos on this setup run perfectly fine and as soon as i install this precision unit it leaks oil in 5 minutes at idle.

redflaredcrx90

do thats sounds like it was defective befor you go it

B20luda

i have been hearing alot of issues with these billet wheel turbos... i just put a 6265 on my H series (had 35R before) so we'll see what happends... is yours a journal bearing turbo? looks like it...

SlowReaction

I'm running a billet 67/65 in t4 config. -3 line from GE oil sandwich with about 1500 mi or so driven everyday. No issues so far. If your worried about oil contamination, you should put one of these inline filter for piece of mind.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...e=Acc-OilLines

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

This is true, but still has no relevance to oil contamination. The issues are not related to one another in this case.

92redhatch

Precision told me not to run a -3 because of oil starvation. Some people have told me to drop my oil pan to see if I have any issues. Even though I don't want to I guess I have to.

B20luda

i have a hard time believing that oil contamination would cause that turbo to fail that fast... wasnt even boosted on...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Precision doesn't explain (nor can they) all the time if a -3AN or -4AN is used in their applications. They're only going to tell you to check and make sure that you have the correct oil pressure used in the engine's application. -3AN on one type of car may be better then a -4AN, and vice versa. But a -4AN or -3AN is not a universal understanding. Hondas tend to have higher oil pressures than other applications. A -3AN may be appropriate, so you need to look at other sources as well.

92redhatch

I've always run a -3. But precision and a precision vendor told me for a stock Honda oil pump to be safe use a -4 with no restrictor. Which is why I went from -3 to -4. I know it all depends on oil pressure and different motors have different oil pressure.

b00sted EK

i stop using precision turbos long ago. had one repaired by them, started to smoke on start up. sent it back, they replaced it with a new brand cartridge with an additional cost. again started to smoke on start up. gave a local guy to repair it and then put it`up for sale. right now i will only use garret or bw turbos.

92redhatch

THANKS!

cfwthb_94

What are some of these problems that are coming about on the new precision billet wheel turbo's. I am about to purchase one and would like to know what I'm getting into.

kcevo

We've had a PTE 6262 on a local Evo that is driven quite a bit, not a DD though. Regularly runs around boosting 30psi with pump and meth injection. No issues of oil consumption or seals going out.

PrecisionH23a

We've run probably 15 of the new billet units on customers cars with no problems to date.

ScorpionT

Ive used the Precision billet stuff and never had a problem. I know lots of people who havent had problems either. From what I hear its mostly the DSM guys having problems. Supra and Evo guys use them all the time, so maybe its something to do with the user and not the turbo.

twkdCD595

I have run probably 4 or 5 precision turbos over the years... they have always been good to me as well. A friends evo has been on 4 precision units over the last few years as well, he has had no problems to date. Upgrading is the only reason why they have been changed.

Currently on a billet 6265 running plenty of boost as well.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

These oil contamination issues have NOTHING to do with the company's manufacturing process or build quality. having positive pressure has nothing to do with the lubrication or pressurization of the CHRA. NO CORRELATION my friends.

Tony the Tiger

I've seen a lot of fresh motor/turbo builds that have skipped a really important step.. Too many guys just hook up the oil line to the turbo, put in oil, and then crank the engine over. Any crap or debris from a fresh motor will eventually work its way to the turbo.. It doesn't help either if the oil feed was coming from an oil filter sandwich adapter because any crap in the oil lines or after the oil filter can still have contaminated oil.

As a rule of thumb, I always leave the oil feed line unhooked, and then drain it into an empty bottle. Start up the engine and at least let it run for 10 secs or so until you get about a quart of oil pumped out of the oil feed line. The turbo will spin, but it never builds up speed to harm it, and 10-15 secs of running won't create harmful heat either. That gives the entire oil feed line a nice flush and prevents a lot of the problems we commonly here about.

As a double safeguard, I run a screen filter before the turbo just to be safe, for mishaps like spun bearings, etc.. Just in case that if I f*ck up a motor, my turbo doesn't go with it. It becomes a necessity when I have two HKS turbos on two of my car, with each turbo being almost $3k a piece...lol

TDautowerkes

I wouldnt let the car idle with the turbo spinning and no oil...... But id definitely pull the plugs and let that starter turn for 30-45 seconds without the oil line hooked up to make sure the turbo gets a good burst of oil when we do start it!


PS: Mike, your turbo WILL be in this coming week. And im liking the TOPMOUNT setup! great upgrade!

92redhatch

i got the turbo back yesterday and installed everything yesterday. i made my oil return a little shorter so it has a better angle going into the pan. i also changed my oil and cut open the filter. no shavings whatsoever (not even on my magnetic drain plug). i havent had a chance to turn it on yet. im going to be turning it on and tuning today. thanks td autowerkes and precision for great service and a fast turn around. hopefully it has no issues.

ps this is not a fresh motor build ive had this setup for about 2 years now.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's good. but remember, you may not see "metal shavings" as using the naked eye in order to determine if the oil is contaminated or not.