JDMs1eeper

Well guys last weekend i pulled my swap out because of over heating issues that turned out to be cracked leaves. I completely rebuilt a new engine and had it running sunday morning. I was tuned to 11 psi on the old engine and this one I have differnt things done. Ex. P&P head, ITR flywheel, Stage4 clutch, Solid mounts.

This was at 10psi, in a 92 DX Hatchback, Street tires as i drive it daily

Over teh week i spent 50 miles breaking in the rings and letting the bearings work in. Yesterday I decided to take her to the track to see how she was doing so after work i made teh trip. I drove 30 miles to the track, teched in, put 2 gallons of 116 in because I was E. I get into the lanes and make my first pass. I pull a 13.4 @ 110 w/ traction issues owning me. Second pass I have a much better launch and traction but then half way down teh track I felt a power loss so i get out of it and get back into it , still felt the loss so i backed out and just finished out taht gear. was a 13.3 @ 110. I pull over at the lanes and check everything obvious didnt see too much so i made another pass to see if it was a fluke. This pass i had 100% traction from what felt like zero TQ almost like my timing was WAY backed down. Feels like a turn all the way down other than the fact that even power shifting to 2nd I didnt even bark teh tires. It was pitiful. 13.6 @ 104

I looked at the cams and it looked like the intake cam had skipped a tooth so I let the car cool down while watching some races then i went home so i coudl fix it this morning. Well i checked and the cams were alined perfect and nothing was wrong w/ them.

Do you think the power loss i felt or got was from the 116 finaly making its way threw the system mid threw my second run?

Setup

LS tranny
CC Stage4clutch
ITR flywheel
CTR N1 crank pully
STR Intake Manifold
P&P 98' LS head
(STOCK CAMS) Intake Lash 4 Exhaust lash 6
NGKr heat 7 2step colder, gap is 25
ARP Head studs
SRP 9.5:1 pistons (81mm)
Eagle Rods
ARP rod bolts
OBX baffled Oil Pan
Solid motor Mounts and TQ mounts

InlinePro Cast Stainless T4 turbo Manifold
T04E turbo, stage5 wheel, 60trim, 70a/r, 3" vband
37mm wastegate (10psi spring)
Greddy TypeS BOV
RevHard 2.5 charge pipes
31" wide x 11.75" tall x 3" thick w/ 3" endtanks OBXr FMIC
Modded 3" RevHard Vband Down pipe
3" Kteller Exhaust

Walbro255 HP intank pump
440cc injectors @ 48psi rail psi
Uberdata tuned to 11psi w/ 21 total timing at @10psi
Was tuned on 93 oct. And AFR's were 10.9 to 11.0 across so was tune on rich side so this winter i wont run as lean.


Reason i used 116 because it was 95 out side w/ 107 heat index and i wanted to make sure it wouldnt knock.

Junglesnake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM S1eeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well guys last weekend i pulled my swap out because of over heating issues that turned out to be cracked leaves. I completely rebuilt a new engine and had it running sunday morning. I was tuned to 11 psi on the old engine and this one I have differnt things done. Ex. P&P head, ITR flywheel, Stage4 clutch, Solid mounts.

This was at 10psi, in a 92 DX Hatchback, Street tires as i drive it daily

Over teh week i spent 50 miles breaking in the rings and letting the bearings work in. Yesterday I decided to take her to the track to see how she was doing so after work i made teh trip. I drove 30 miles to the track, teched in, put 2 gallons of 116 in because I was E. I get into the lanes and make my first pass. I pull a 13.4 @ 110 w/ traction issues owning me. Second pass I have a much better launch and traction but then half way down teh track I felt a power loss so i get out of it and get back into it , still felt the loss so i backed out and just finished out taht gear. was a 13.3 @ 110. I pull over at the lanes and check everything obvious didnt see too much so i made another pass to see if it was a fluke. This pass i had 100% traction from what felt like zero TQ almost like my timing was WAY backed down. Feels like a turn all the way down other than the fact that even power shifting to 2nd I didnt even bark teh tires. It was pitiful. 13.6 @ 104

I looked at the cams and it looked like the intake cam had skipped a tooth so I let the car cool down while watching some races then i went home so i coudl fix it this morning. Well i checked and the cams were alined perfect and nothing was wrong w/ them.

Do you think the power loss i felt or got was from the 116 finaly making its way threw the system mid threw my second run?

Setup

LS tranny
CC Stage4clutch
ITR flywheel
CTR N1 crank pully
STR Intake Manifold
P&P 98' LS head
(STOCK CAMS) Intake Lash 4 Exhaust lash 6
NGKr heat 7 2step colder, gap is 25
ARP Head studs
SRP 9.5:1 pistons (81mm)
Eagle Rods
ARP rod bolts
OBX baffled Oil Pan
Solid motor Mounts and TQ mounts

InlinePro Cast Stainless T4 turbo Manifold
T04E turbo, stage5 wheel, 60trim, 70a/r, 3" vband
37mm wastegate (10psi spring)
Greddy TypeS BOV
RevHard 2.5 charge pipes
31" wide x 11.75" tall x 3" thick w/ 3" endtanks OBXr FMIC
Modded 3" RevHard Vband Down pipe
3" Kteller Exhaust

Walbro255 HP intank pump
440cc injectors @ 48psi rail psi
Uberdata tuned to 11psi w/ 21 total timing at @10psi
Was tuned on 93 oct. And AFR's were 10.9 to 11.0 across so was tune on rich side so this winter i wont run as lean.


Reason i used 116 because it was 95 out side w/ 107 heat index and i wanted to make sure it wouldnt knock. </TD></TR></TABLE>

YES

JDMs1eeper

I'm asking because im out side lookin over everything and see nothing wrong. I'm getting zero blow by and compression is 185 across. Cam timing is in spec and i never messed w/ my ignition timing so i couldnt see where that could have changed on its own unless the intake cam slipped, but it didnt.

I'm a retard for getting 116... I should have just got 100 lol, 116 was OVER KILL

smells good tho

JDMs1eeper

anyone else have any opinions? I still would like to make sure im not missing something else.


I just added a half tank of BP 93 and it feels better but still not 100%, maybe i need to drive it around more to mix it up a lil

Cloner

Id say so.It happened to me before on an old all motor engine.I put 116 in drove it down the street and the car died.Compression was around 11.5:1.I couldnt get it to even start till I put some 87 in it. Remember this lower the octane the faster the fuel burns the higher the octane the slower the fuel burns.I didnt know this way back when.

SHystrdyGSRtdy

hmm.. i didn't think there would actually be adverse effects using higher octane on a boosted motor?

SOHCmaster

timing, high octaine play a role. 116 is not like pump gas. Advance it

JDMs1eeper

well i put a half tank of 93 in and did some driving, It seemed to of helped but still far from right. If i gag it threw 1st going into second will spin then like a second later you hear a miss and power drops. If i do a 3rd gear pull from 2500 you can hear random missfires poping. Before i took it out I also checked my timing w/ a light to make sure it was on, spark timing was off about 2 degrees and i had 1 small vacumm leak. I still see zero differnce and its still acting up. Its acting almost like the coolant temps are raising way up but my temp gauge stays cool, my coolany level stays the same and doesnt bubble over in teh resivoir. Its just plain out crazy. Somewhere my HP is hidden and i want it back! lol

JDMs1eeper

Oh and i dont see how i could have any spark blown out. my gap is at 25

JDMs1eeper

Imma go check my plugs again, I may try my other set.

being turbo'd is almost as bad as the average relationship. Things are always working out best just before they take a nose dive lol

SOHCmaster

Yeah plug issue for real.. Once mine starts poppin I know my plugs are toasted. Even if the plugs are a week old I dont care. Try a fresh set of plugs with a fresh gap and Im sure it will run tighter with no poppin, again put a timing light on there to check timing too.

SOHCmaster

NGK copper core

JDMs1eeper

well i put my Denso Iridiums back in that have a 28 gap. I took them out 2 months ago in place of the 2 step colder NGKs. I didnt have any problems with them, just changed them for sake of mind.

On a 2500rpm roll, low end up to mid feels better but then it misses way more just as peak psi sets in. Now its a steady steam of a bad miss fire. Almost sounds like "vtec" lol along with the power drop.

I checked my injector clips, they seem all intact but this is driving me up a wall.

Do you think maybe when i let my car sit to the side w/ the hood open to cool. Think its possible a hater may have came and messed w/ somethin under the hood? Because it was runnign great and then magicaly after i let it cool off its all wacked out. I'm running outta ideas but keep me posted on what you guys think too

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PK SPEED &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah plug issue for real.. Once mine starts poppin I know my plugs are toasted. Even if the plugs are a week old I dont care. Try a fresh set of plugs with a fresh gap and Im sure it will run tighter with no poppin, again put a timing light on there to check timing too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ill prolly try to locate a fresh set of NGK 2steps and regap them.

Could a bad battery do this also? My battery has seen its better day and doesnt hold a charge any more. Maybe it could be causeing a voltage drop so the spark could be too weak and being blown out? I'mma go install my new red top and see how that helps.

JDMs1eeper

ok, I'm completely confused now. Get this.

I put my 2 step colder plugs back in, rechecked gap to 25.

Rearrange Vac. lines w/ boost controller like i ran it when i trapped 116 on the old engine. (14psi)

Take off all injector clips and re install

Check firing orders on plugs, Checked Plug wires for wear, Checked Distributor wires. Checked Map wiring.

Ok I start it up, my idle is WAY low w/ vac showing at 18-16ish. Its getting dark so i say **** it and take it out anyways.

I get to a long stretch where i test my cars and begin to break boost in 2nd. I build boost to about 8PSI at 5k and go... she rips threw the remainder of 2nd, rips threw 3rd, and 4th pulls like a train on crack. No more missing, no lack of power anywhere.

What gives? Runs like a dream at 14 but on 10 I had problems? Maybe takein everything off, checking and putting things back did something, maybe the way i re ran my vcaume lines did something. I dont know.

Maybe something was tamperd w/ at the track and i fixed it by mistake. She rolls out now. Any more ideas would be great. Now im wondering what gives? lol

JDMs1eeper

Imma go put it back down to 10, see if she purrs still

StolenTeg

retuned it...

SOHCmaster

Ah, the little mysterys of turbo hondas.. One day running like a raped ape the next, acting like a whinny bitch..
You running an aftermarket FPR ? sometimes they need a little adjustment from time to time. Good luck with your ride

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

by runnin higher octane you're losing power. because the higher octane needs more timing to ignite. thus loosing power.



P.s. get rid of that CTR crank pulley, itll cause you bearings and oil pump to fail on you cuz it has no harmonic damper. seen it happen before.

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
P.s. get rid of that CTR crank pulley, itll cause you bearings and oil pump to fail on you cuz it has no harmonic damper. seen it happen before. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, the guys at inlinepro told me they have busted several oil pumps due to that pulley. I should take it off...

Bailhatch

sounds like it was just too rich at 10psi. retune and it should be fine.

I would open up the gap a little too. .028-.030 should be fine. you want the biggest spark you can get so dont run it super tight unless you need to.

BokChoy

Its probably just worked the race gas out and you've got a good mix in again. When I first pulled out my N/A set up I ran a race gas mix, when I went to fill up I put the race gas in first with intentions of driving to a gas station to top up with regular gas and didn't even make it there b4 I had the same symptoms you described. It was totally the timing, a little reg gas and some rough driving it all cleared up. By the way sorry to mention my N/A set up in here

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like it was just too rich at 10psi. retune and it should be fine.

I would open up the gap a little too. .028-.030 should be fine. you want the biggest spark you can get so dont run it super tight unless you need to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah i know about the gap, I just run mine at 25 because i used to have problems when at 30 or above. (when over heating) but w/ the new engine i should set them back to 28-30.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BokChoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its probably just worked the race gas out and you've got a good mix in again. When I first pulled out my N/A set up I ran a race gas mix, when I went to fill up I put the race gas in first with intentions of driving to a gas station to top up with regular gas and didn't even make it there b4 I had the same symptoms you described. It was totally the timing, a little reg gas and some rough driving it all cleared up. By the way sorry to mention my N/A set up in here</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, thats prolly part of the problem. What ever the problem was... i wish it wouldnt of happend. I was on 10psi an ran 13.3 @ 110 on 10psi
I was gonna crank it up to 14psi and see what I could pull out

SOHC_MShue

Hey guys i tuned this car. Its in the low 11's at 10psi to be safe. Around 21* timing. He sais now the car runs great again on 10psi. I guess it was the 116.

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys i tuned this car. Its in the low 11's at 10psi to be safe. Around 21* timing. He sais now the car runs great again on 10psi. I guess it was the 116.</TD></TR></TABLE>

come to the track and watch the LST run mannnn.