post pics of your traction bars on your turbo cars, (clearing the charge pipe)
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post pics of your traction bars on your turbo cars, (clearing the charge pipe)
like it says, i want to see some pics of people's setup with traction bars and how they cleared the charge pipes.
post what brand traction bars, and if you had problems with the charge pipes getting in the way, if so how did you fix it? did you have to re route your charge pipes? let me knwo, thanks
post what brand traction bars, and if you had problems with the charge pipes getting in the way, if so how did you fix it? did you have to re route your charge pipes? let me knwo, thanks
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Re: post pics of your traction bars on your turbo cars, (B16Civic93)
Charge pipe is not on in this pic but it cleared by several inches.
Modified by mike1114 at 1:51 PM 6/3/2005
Modified by mike1114 at 1:52 PM 6/3/2005
Modified by mike1114 at 1:51 PM 6/3/2005
Modified by mike1114 at 1:52 PM 6/3/2005
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Re: post pics of your traction bars on your turbo cars, (evosol)
my that bar looks familiar.....
evosol, i put it on my car with radius arms attached for a while, it didnt helpa ton, so i decided that i also need poly lca bushings. so arms are off until i get the bushings. the crossmember is still on though, it actually made a noticable difference with handling.
evosol, i put it on my car with radius arms attached for a while, it didnt helpa ton, so i decided that i also need poly lca bushings. so arms are off until i get the bushings. the crossmember is still on though, it actually made a noticable difference with handling.
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#8
Re: post pics of your traction bars on your turbo cars, (Bryson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just wanted to say...
L-con...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
just curious.. why is that?
L-con...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
just curious.. why is that?
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Re: post pics of your traction bars on your turbo cars, (Bryson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just wanted to say...
L-con...
Full-Race...
You get what you pay for... </TD></TR></TABLE>
why do you say that..i was about to purchase a set..please explain you situation..thanks
L-con...
Full-Race...
You get what you pay for... </TD></TR></TABLE>
why do you say that..i was about to purchase a set..please explain you situation..thanks
#12
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#14
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Re: (spoolingb20)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoolingb20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Thanks : thats all i needed to hear about that brand
What though would you recommend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Full-Race.
The bars are strong, and the geometry is correct. Can't go wrong with their setup. They even offer a special fit radiator for EFs to go along with their bars.
What though would you recommend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Full-Race.
The bars are strong, and the geometry is correct. Can't go wrong with their setup. They even offer a special fit radiator for EFs to go along with their bars.
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Re: (Bryson)
wow good thing i didnt buy those a few months ago! breaking the ******* bars, and mad tire rub...
what a weak product. did they even test em?!!? jesus.
thanks bryson.
what a weak product. did they even test em?!!? jesus.
thanks bryson.
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Re: (1.8EG-T)
yeah what's wrong with L-con I use them and I have no problems at all and I can feel a big difference after installing them they work
Modified by POWERINTEGRA at 7:29 AM 6/3/2005
Modified by POWERINTEGRA at 7:29 AM 6/3/2005
#18
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Re: (shortyz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow good thing i didnt buy those a few months ago! breaking the ******* bars, and mad tire rub...
what a weak product. did they even test em?!!? jesus.
thanks bryson. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure thing man.
I just hate to see people buy these crap products because a lot of people on the forum jump right on them without thinking. The L-cons will work, but then again you get what you pay for.
what a weak product. did they even test em?!!? jesus.
thanks bryson. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure thing man.
I just hate to see people buy these crap products because a lot of people on the forum jump right on them without thinking. The L-cons will work, but then again you get what you pay for.
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I broke the full race bars I had..not sure if it was the bars fault or mine so I wont say it was the bars fault..damn rod end on the aluminum radious rod on the driver side pulled the threads right out of it..
I have sense had moly rods made and have not had a problem sense..
I have sense had moly rods made and have not had a problem sense..
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Re: (99Hybrid_Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99Hybrid_Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I broke the full race bars I had..not sure if it was the bars fault or mine so I wont say it was the bars fault..damn rod end on the aluminum radious rod on the driver side pulled the threads right out of it..
I have sense had moly rods made and have not had a problem sense..</TD></TR></TABLE>
interesting...the radius rods are in compression when a car is driven normally. in order for the heim to separate from the radius rod, the wheel must have been pushed back somehow creating tension between the components. even if the wheel is pushed/pulled back, a lot of force is required to strip a properly threaded 5/8 in. fastener. we even chase the radius rods with a tap prior to assembly to help prevent cross threading or binding when the heim/jam nut is trq'd. send us the damaged rods and we will replace them if you want
I have sense had moly rods made and have not had a problem sense..</TD></TR></TABLE>
interesting...the radius rods are in compression when a car is driven normally. in order for the heim to separate from the radius rod, the wheel must have been pushed back somehow creating tension between the components. even if the wheel is pushed/pulled back, a lot of force is required to strip a properly threaded 5/8 in. fastener. we even chase the radius rods with a tap prior to assembly to help prevent cross threading or binding when the heim/jam nut is trq'd. send us the damaged rods and we will replace them if you want
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Re: (Full-Race Javier)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Javier »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
. send us the damaged rods and we will replace them if you want </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow good customer service.... Definitely the brand i will be going with
jon
. send us the damaged rods and we will replace them if you want </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow good customer service.... Definitely the brand i will be going with
jon
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Re: (slowdaintegra)
i got L-con bars on my car. and they fit great and work great too. the fit and finish on them is superb and the quality you can see.
a customer of mine got full-race bars. fits good. but they gave him the wrong bolts and cross threaded the nuts in the framerail for the EF. Full-race sent him a new set of bolts but that doesnt fix the stripped nuts he has to cut out and replace.
a customer of mine got full-race bars. fits good. but they gave him the wrong bolts and cross threaded the nuts in the framerail for the EF. Full-race sent him a new set of bolts but that doesnt fix the stripped nuts he has to cut out and replace.