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Poor quality radiator not able to disipate heat normally?

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Old 07-16-2006, 11:09 AM
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Default Poor quality radiator not able to disipate heat normally?

Heres the deal.. I have a cheap ebay dual core alum rad 1/2 size civic, and im running hot sometimes. When i get out and stick my had infront of where the fan is (on the opposite site) The radiator is stone cold after i shut it off.. But the tanks of the radiator are boiling hot.

Could it be possible that the rad is poor quality/design and not disipating heat normally? Should i switch it up to possibly at a Koyo or Fluidyne radiator.. or would i just be wasting my money.

All other aspects of the cooling system are up to par.. Waterpump, thermostat, 80/20 mix, heatwraped everything, holes in bumper for airflow, ducting for airflow, cowl on the hood etc.. On the highway, and when its not stop/go driving, it runs perfect at 195deg.

Thanks!
Old 07-16-2006, 11:38 AM
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Default Re: Poor quality radiator not able to disipate heat normally? (HamiltonRex)

let it warm up with the radiator cap off and heater on, and top it off (to bleed), make sure the fan's kicking on, and displacing air from the outside thru the rad into the engine bay (right direction), you could try hooking up a fan switch (grounding the colored wire on the t-stat housing coolant sensor i believe).

i suppose its possible the core is clogged or something, though I don't think there is anything wrong with the ebay radiators, a core is a core, to some extent..

if it runs cool on the highway, it would seem like it's possibly a fan issue...

good luck
Old 07-16-2006, 11:58 AM
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what part is stone cold??

Im working on some over heating issues as well with my ebay half size, but I think I narrowed it down to a combination of my downpipe sitting 1/8 inch away from it, my open wastegate exhaust dumping directly on it(open dump for now), and lack of airflow, and water lines from the turbo. I fabbed up a couple heat shields, cut a few spots in the bumper to get more air in and it hasnt overheated yet.

Start by rebleeding it. Take off the cap, let the car idle, let the fan come on twice, you will see air bubbles and the fluid level will go down in the radiator. After the fan stops the second time, add fluid if its low, and make sure the overflow reservior is at max. Also make sure the fan is blowing in the right direction.
Old 07-16-2006, 12:18 PM
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which ebay radiators did you buy?

i've noticed a slew of new style radiators, unlike the ones yonaka makes
Old 07-16-2006, 12:24 PM
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Default Re: (igo4bmx)

coolant is bled properly... fan is on ign 12V, its a 12" slimline, it comes on, blowing in the right direction etc... Also have ducting, heatwrapped everything, holes in bumper, cowl on hood.

Im not sure of the specific make of the radiator, cant remember it was quite awhile ago when i bought it. I highly doubt the core is clogged.. And the part that is cool is the part right center of the fan on the opposite side, im thinking about picking up another slimfan and running dual fans, since i have the room for it.
Old 07-16-2006, 12:33 PM
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I think I have the Yonaka one.

FWIW, I *thought* mine was bled ok too. I bled it again the correct way, sure enough I removed quite a bit of air pockets.

Are both upper and lower hoses warm/hot?
Old 07-16-2006, 01:07 PM
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Default Re: (RTW DC2R)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are both upper and lower hoses warm/hot?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.. thermostat is working correctly.
Old 07-16-2006, 05:22 PM
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Default Re: (HamiltonRex)

i had to make some ghetto heat shields to block heat from turbo from getting to side of rad, maybe u do to
Old 07-16-2006, 07:40 PM
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Default Re: (97grnrs)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97grnrs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had to make some ghetto heat shields to block heat from turbo from getting to side of rad, maybe u do to </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes i might add one and go from the rad towards the block and ancor to the rad support and maybe valve cover bolt.. My engine has all steel plated mounts.. so it dosent move.
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