riceball777

fully built lsvtec turbo,
sleeved forged rods and pistons 100% fully built running a t3 60-1, rc 1000cc running hondata s100

i got all my machine work done at rs machines and even payed them to assemble the short block. i put the head on and started the car and drove on a base map by show church to his dyno. it never stop smoking and after shawn dynoed a little he did a compression and leak down. #1 cilinder was leakinking 40% and only had 100 psi compression all other cilinders were good.

pulled the motor out and took it back to rs. they opened it and it #1 piston was melteed very very little and scared the walls very little

they are telling me that the timing was maybe off a tooth but i find it hard to believe because i have done that countless amounts of time.

the base map was rock solid and when my car was first put on the dyno the air fule was good and was not too lean or to rich to wash down the cilinder.

motor had about 75 miles never even really boosted untill it was on the dyno. but it was messed from the begining

please help me and tell me what could have caused this

riceball777

anyone

TIGboy

we need more information about the tune. perhaps a log sheet?

purpleh22

Had mine done and assembled by the same people. Lots of escuses and explanations about why they were slower than their deadline. Received shortblock and it wouldn't turn over. Engine had not been align bored, a damaged bearing saddle had not been remachined and the crank still had a scuffed throw. New bearings were put in and mains were just tightened down, binding the crank. Had all work redone locally. At their insistance that 10:1 would be fine for 20+psi on pump, I ok'd 10:1 Arias pistons. Rep claimed low comp. was "old school thinking" and that they had built 11.5:1 setups that run higher pressures on pump.
Expensive learning experience!

EF9ZC

Sounds like dh-racing.com i heard they used to work together...

WHITE DEATH

Wow, that is awful. All that money down the *******. Sorry guys.

purpleh22

Think dh racing is different - shops in LA and Vegas. Slow turnaround. Finally got an H22 gasket from them. Traded a h22 head for used set of H22 - S cams. Said he had probs with cam in his race car so had to run one of the cams that was supposed to be mine (already had my H22 head). Cam looks a little worn I still have to have it checked to see if it is an "S" and if it is useable.

If You Slip You Die

bump

Spec R

thats awful to hear riceball, i was waiting for your setup to be done. what would cause the piston to melt on only one cylinder? maybe a bad injector? poor installation of rings? i dont know thats rough.

JDMAppeal

iTrader: (1)

could have been an improperly installed sleeve blocking coolant to that cylinder therefore overheating just that cylinder and melting the piston.

ATS*Mark

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riceball777 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
motor had about 75 miles never even really boosted untill it was on the dyno. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you mean by never really boosted on. did you boost on it or didnt you? driving around on a base map and boosting it on a fresh motor is the reason for melting a piston. or an injector failed . for some reason you were running lean in that cylinder. if your timing was off a tooth the car would run like absolute **** and would show sings in all cylinders.

2.7liter

looks like im going to fork out a little more money and let laskey racing built my block now.

SL0WEGG

a melted piston piston has nothing to do how a block was put together.

PHDZINE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a melted piston piston has nothing to do how a block was put together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You said that the timing and A/F was good but did you check the crank index
offset...e.g. distributor to crank to Handata timing offset. Not to sure if Hondata has that...e.g. if your timing map is at 26 deg timing and your engine is seeing 34 deg. timing because of the distributor not being aligned (offset) with the Hondata.
I'm not sure if I'm explaining this right but almost all standalone fuel management system have this (crank index offset).

Sorry if this makes no sense but everytime we put a new engine in we always have to check crank index offset even though we had a complete fuel/timing map

MONEYSHOT

good info ! it doesn't help either when your valves hit your pistons . but this guy didn't mention any of that .

PHDZINE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MONEYSHOT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> good info ! it doesn't help either when your valves hit your pistons . but this guy didn't mention any of that . </TD></TR></TABLE>


Some people need to learn how to degree cams in and not rely on factory TDC markings. With so many variables E.g. new rods, pistons, sleeves, head gasket thickness, decked block, resurfaced head, ETC. Your CAMS can be anywhere. Just because you assembled motors a hundred time, doesn't mean you know where your cams are in relation to your crankshaft unless they are degreed in. Better safe than sorry.