trooper0641

I've been reading a lot of people having just pistons & rods combo boosting pretty high on their sohcs. What are you guys running?

trooper0641

ttt

Tad

I was just thinking about this myself..

and really, the big weakness of the d block, is it's rods.

so thats #1
and with a forged piston as well you're pretty golden for that area..

I would like to also post the block, a cheap alternative(super cheap) to sleeving,
with good results, and no overheating problems like a blockgaurd...

also you want headstuds, and have the head/block checked to make sure it's
mating surfaces are good, so you wont have headlifting problems.

that would be one mighty fine D motor, and I wouldn't be suprized if it could handle more than 300whp

but this is all brainstorming...

menkio

you use to able to run the crower bearings and use ls rods with whatever pistons, i got suzuki and that with arp rod bolts and good rings would hold 15-18 fine.. depends on the money man.. do it right is all i can say, eagles+wesco/arias/je whatever.. 9:1 is fine...

anther sour point never to overlook is the head gasket problems, deck the block, deck the head, arp head studs, and a oem headgasket, and make sure to install it RIGHT.

trooper0641

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you use to able to run the crower bearings and use ls rods with whatever pistons, i got suzuki and that with arp rod bolts and good rings would hold 15-18 fine.. depends on the money man.. do it right is all i can say, eagles+wesco/arias/je whatever.. 9:1 is fine...

anther sour point never to overlook is the head gasket problems, deck the block, deck the head, arp head studs, and a oem headgasket, and make sure to install it RIGHT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ttt thanks for all the comments.

sockvtec

to add another question to this, how much would all this cost? because im want to build my single cam and i was wondering what budget ill need before starting

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you use to able to run the crower bearings and use ls rods with whatever pistons, i got suzuki and that with arp rod bolts and good rings would hold 15-18 fine.. depends on the money man.. do it right is all i can say, eagles+wesco/arias/je whatever.. 9:1 is fine...

anther sour point never to overlook is the head gasket problems, deck the block, deck the head, arp head studs, and a oem headgasket, and make sure to install it RIGHT.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well said,
I read that the mods required to get ls rods working ends up close to the price
of just getting forged aftermarket rods. so thats what I'd rather do.

CivicVX94

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to also post the block, a cheap alternative(super cheap) to sleeving,
with good results, and no overheating problems like a blockgaurd...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok dumb question.....what is posting the block?

trooper0641

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicVX94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ok dumb question.....what is posting the block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

jlacoy82

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Burns &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to add another question to this, how much would all this cost? because im want to build my single cam and i was wondering what budget ill need before starting</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rods/pistons = $700-900
Might as well change the bearings while your in there = $100-200
Replacing random seals and gaskets in bottom end = $+++
Machine work if any = $+++

I dunno, just to build the bottom end PROPERLY, the FIRST TIME, I'd say prepare to spend a bare minimum of $1200-1300.

Tad

basically as said previously,
it's like a poormans sleeving.
same objective as block gaurd.

what you do is drill in some studs into the side of the block,
so they go thru the block and rest on the sides of the cylinder walls,
holding them in place(gently) so they don't expand or crack under high pressures.

but since you only have some studs sticking thru the engine, instead of a big ole block
gaurd, theres no overheating problems..
also it doesnt just hold the very top portion of the cylinders,
you can place them anywhere along the cylinder wall you want.

eK9aT10pSi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you use to able to run the crower bearings</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive been trying to find out the specs for them. anyone ?

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Ok so say that you were building a d16z6..

Your setup was going to consist of..

-Je pistons
-Eagle rods
-acl bearings


And you were wanting to make at least 200whp and it be beaten on daily, would it be safe without any type of sleeves or block guard?

HatchEh2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">basically as said previously,
it's like a poormans sleeving.
same objective as block gaurd.

what you do is drill in some studs into the side of the block,
so they go thru the block and rest on the sides of the cylinder walls,
holding them in place(gently) so they don't expand or crack under high pressures.

but since you only have some studs sticking thru the engine, instead of a big ole block
gaurd, theres no overheating problems..
also it doesnt just hold the very top portion of the cylinders,
you can place them anywhere along the cylinder wall you want.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow i didnt think about the block guard ristricting oil/coolant flow= overheating...

hmm, i drive for long periods of time too..cant have that happen.

Well... can posting the block be an easy DIY? wouldn't it be suceptable to leaks??someone should do a write-up on proper procedures and tools

Soccerking3000

there is a write-up somewhere, if you do ti correctly you dont have to worry about it leaking. If you do it wrong you can overtorque the posts and warp the sleeves causing all sorts of problems, or you could have leaks ect ect...

edit: i'm a nice guy
http://www.muller.net/sonny/crx/engine/posted.html

HatchEh2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

edit: i'm a nice guy
http://www.muller.net/sonny/crx/engine/posted.html</TD></TR></TABLE>
You sure are
Thanks

fjt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlacoy82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rods/pistons = $700-900
Might as well change the bearings while your in there = $100-200
Replacing random seals and gaskets in bottom end = $+++
Machine work if any = $+++

I dunno, just to build the bottom end PROPERLY, the FIRST TIME, I'd say prepare to spend a bare minimum of $1200-1300.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what i spent on my block build up..around 1300 and that included parts and labor.
New pistons and rods(Eagle Rods)
New Piston Rings
New Rod Bearings
New Main Crank bearings
ARP head studs
Block guard
Notching work
Honing
Cleaning of block
Instalation work and blueprinting.



My piston & rods combo did not got to $500

_entropy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so say that you were building a d16z6..

Your setup was going to consist of..

-Je pistons
-Eagle rods
-acl bearings


And you were wanting to make at least 200whp and it be beaten on daily, would it be safe without any type of sleeves or block guard?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I helped build a Y8 for a friend with eagle rods, SRP 8.5:1 pistons, new oem honda bearings, ported head, zex cam, and a .48 A/R T3/TO4E 50-trim. 330 WHP all day every day on pump gas, stock sleeves, no guard. Tuned with Uberdata. Everyone thinks stock honda sleeves are a lot weaker than they actually are. With modest compression, boost, and timing your sleeves will hold a lot of power. Detonation is what cracks sleeves 99 times out of 100. The 330 WHP car I was talking about is driven around 50 miles a day, and is his only car, and he's pretty hard on it.

igo4bmx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Napoleon Dynamite &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I helped build a Y8 for a friend with eagle rods, SRP 8.5:1 pistons, new oem honda bearings, ported head, zex cam, and a .48 A/R T3/TO4E 50-trim. 330 WHP all day every day on pump gas, stock sleeves, no guard. Tuned with Uberdata. Everyone thinks stock honda sleeves are a lot weaker than they actually are. With modest compression, boost, and timing your sleeves will hold a lot of power. Detonation is what cracks sleeves 99 times out of 100. The 330 WHP car I was talking about is driven around 50 miles a day, and is his only car, and he's pretty hard on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you take it off on any sweet jumps?

DANG!

Ragecloak

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Napoleon Dynamite &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I helped build a Y8 for a friend with eagle rods, SRP 8.5:1 pistons, new oem honda bearings, ported head, zex cam, and a .48 A/R T3/TO4E 50-trim. 330 WHP all day every day on pump gas, stock sleeves, no guard. Tuned with Uberdata. Everyone thinks stock honda sleeves are a lot weaker than they actually are. With modest compression, boost, and timing your sleeves will hold a lot of power. Detonation is what cracks sleeves 99 times out of 100. The 330 WHP car I was talking about is driven around 50 miles a day, and is his only car, and he's pretty hard on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How much boost? I'm wanting to do a similiar setup on my z6 and wasnt sure about block protection. Got a link for those pistons? I probably wont have the head ported, nor will i have a cam but i'll be tuning with uberdata.

Hyaboosta

Yeah the rods on the D are a big weak point. But as far as posting the block, Im not too sure about utting studs thru my block. I think if you want to make big numbers then you need to build it right. Pay the extra money for the sleeves. Theres no sence in buying good pistons and rods just too blow the motor when the crack and get into the pistons and head. all you really need is the sleeves,pistons and rods. valvetrain is nice but not neccesary unless you want to raise the rev limit.

BME1986

I will be running ls rods, with the vitara pistons. Got every thing for $225. Should be good for at least 250whp. Will be running a bmc manifold with a t3 super 60 at like 15psi.

96-EJ6 B18C

I'm planning on running the Scat rods, wiseco 8.8:1's, and the Golden Eagle block gaurd. It will be on my .60 Trim T3 for a while, the plan is to upgrade to a Garrett GT3071, Uberdata tuned on something like 720's. I have a hard time believing that the GE gaurd would restrict coolant flow enough to cause any overheating issues. Anyone else running the GE gaurd??? Any input???

itslogics

bump. I like this thread good information.

Soccerking3000

the ge block guard really wont affect coolant flow like some of the other ones, you are just as well off with posting the block