piston slapping Q = OIL Grade to use for TEMP driving.
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piston slapping Q = OIL Grade to use for TEMP driving.
just baught my car /w this "freshly " built motor like a month ago.. supposedly:
Engine:
B18B 1.8L Non-Vtec Head
- Port and Polished
B20 Block
- Bored/Sleeved 84mm
- Sleeved by Golden Eagle
JE Pistons 8.0:1 and Piston Rings
Eagle Rods
Turbonetics T3/T4 Hybrid Turbocharger
Rev Hard Turbo Manifold
tuned on chrome @ 6 psi.
got a noise from motor within 3 days after purchasing car from testing to see if rev lmiter would kick it (rev'd it to 7.5krpm) barely went anywhere with car, thought it was a rod knock.. did valve adjustment, noise still there, then 2-3 weeks later took it to BSERIES and finally deteremined that it wasnt a rod knock, and might be Piston slapping wall due to error on person who machined it, or whoever built it just pieced it together and didnt know how to measure it. did a leak down test, resuls were bad. 2 of them did not hold pressure, turned out to be valve seals most likely, another had bad piston ring due to oil on sparkplug. planning to just drive it and baby it, wondering if i got the correct oil to use.. was running 10w30 fully synthetic, but now baught Valvoline Racing 20w50. dont know if its too thick but thats what i remember someone tellin me , to get thicker oil and just baby it.. so wondering if i got the correct oil, and if so is it safe to use w/o ruining my turbo seals or anything..
Engine:
B18B 1.8L Non-Vtec Head
- Port and Polished
B20 Block
- Bored/Sleeved 84mm
- Sleeved by Golden Eagle
JE Pistons 8.0:1 and Piston Rings
Eagle Rods
Turbonetics T3/T4 Hybrid Turbocharger
Rev Hard Turbo Manifold
tuned on chrome @ 6 psi.
got a noise from motor within 3 days after purchasing car from testing to see if rev lmiter would kick it (rev'd it to 7.5krpm) barely went anywhere with car, thought it was a rod knock.. did valve adjustment, noise still there, then 2-3 weeks later took it to BSERIES and finally deteremined that it wasnt a rod knock, and might be Piston slapping wall due to error on person who machined it, or whoever built it just pieced it together and didnt know how to measure it. did a leak down test, resuls were bad. 2 of them did not hold pressure, turned out to be valve seals most likely, another had bad piston ring due to oil on sparkplug. planning to just drive it and baby it, wondering if i got the correct oil to use.. was running 10w30 fully synthetic, but now baught Valvoline Racing 20w50. dont know if its too thick but thats what i remember someone tellin me , to get thicker oil and just baby it.. so wondering if i got the correct oil, and if so is it safe to use w/o ruining my turbo seals or anything..
#2
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Re: piston slapping Q = OIL Grade to use for TEMP driving. (Jesse.)
valve seals wont cause low leakdown....
but use some cheap *** oil cause if its that bad its just gona burn it up
but use some cheap *** oil cause if its that bad its just gona burn it up
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Re: piston slapping Q = OIL Grade to use for TEMP driving. (JDogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">valve seals wont cause low leakdown....
but use some cheap *** oil cause if its that bad its just gona burn it up</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm what else could it be if its not my valve seals..
but use some cheap *** oil cause if its that bad its just gona burn it up</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm what else could it be if its not my valve seals..
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Re: (eg crunkmonster)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg crunkmonster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u arent suppose to break in a motor on synthetic, i hope u know that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it was mineral oil used to break in motor..
it was mineral oil used to break in motor..
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Re: (Jesse.)
Ok, well i did the oil change anyways b/c nobody really was sayin much ... also searched on HT said it should be koo.. but after i did oil change i noticed taht my motor started to make a different noise now.. and it idled a lil bit differently. also after a 10 min drive, i see oil coming out of my turbo where the filter suppose to be.. hmm..
also when i did my oil change, saw my oil, my password jdm magnetic drain plug catched alot of wierd stuff on it.. looked like grey greease?? iono and my oil was wierd.. not normal...
also when i did my oil change, saw my oil, my password jdm magnetic drain plug catched alot of wierd stuff on it.. looked like grey greease?? iono and my oil was wierd.. not normal...
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#8
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Re: (Jesse.)
think about it man... valve stem seals go at the top fo the guide... they have zero effect on leak down.
its either toasted rings, bent/burnt valves or a headgasket is done... thats all that effect leakdown for the most part.
the grey grease is bits of aluminum.... that motor is done.
its either toasted rings, bent/burnt valves or a headgasket is done... thats all that effect leakdown for the most part.
the grey grease is bits of aluminum.... that motor is done.
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Re: (JDogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">think about it man... valve stem seals go at the top fo the guide... they have zero effect on leak down.
its either toasted rings, bent/burnt valves or a headgasket is done... thats all that effect leakdown for the most part.
the grey grease is bits of aluminum.... that motor is done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
probably bent valves.. but my idle isnt fcked up..
bits of aluminum.. from where?
yeah.. i guess its a done motor.. probably just drive it until it blows then swap in a stock motor.. (anything wrong with doing this? or can anything be salvaged from it?)
its either toasted rings, bent/burnt valves or a headgasket is done... thats all that effect leakdown for the most part.
the grey grease is bits of aluminum.... that motor is done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
probably bent valves.. but my idle isnt fcked up..
bits of aluminum.. from where?
yeah.. i guess its a done motor.. probably just drive it until it blows then swap in a stock motor.. (anything wrong with doing this? or can anything be salvaged from it?)
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Re: (rtype11)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rtype11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first oil change after motor rebuild the gray grease may be assembly lube???</TD></TR></TABLE>
they why would it stick to the magnet?
bent exh valves usually wont mess up the idle much.
they why would it stick to the magnet?
bent exh valves usually wont mess up the idle much.
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Re: (JDogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rtype11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first oil change after motor rebuild the gray grease may be assembly lube???</TD></TR></TABLE>
its the 2nd oil change actually. first one had this black metal stuff on it..
2nd one had grey grease that was stickin to magnetic drain plug..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they why would it stick to the magnet?
bent exh valves usually wont mess up the idle much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ic.. so might have bent exh valves?
its the 2nd oil change actually. first one had this black metal stuff on it..
2nd one had grey grease that was stickin to magnetic drain plug..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they why would it stick to the magnet?
bent exh valves usually wont mess up the idle much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ic.. so might have bent exh valves?
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Re: (Jesse.)
yeah well your pretty much out of luck then, was hoping it was like arp cam lube, which is a grey grease collecting on drain plug.
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Re: (rtype11)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rtype11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah well your pretty much out of luck then, was hoping it was like arp cam lube, which is a grey grease collecting on drain plug.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ic.. soo what is it realy..
ic.. soo what is it realy..
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Re: (Jesse.)
still have no idea what this noise really is b/c ive been driving around with it for awwhille and nothing has been happening... only see oil leakin outta my turbo.. probably bad seals.. and thats about it.. the noise still here. motor still turns on and takes me places..
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Re: (JDogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the grey grease is bits of aluminum....
they why would it stick to the magnet?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would aluminum stick to the magnet?
the grey grease is bits of aluminum....
they why would it stick to the magnet?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would aluminum stick to the magnet?
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Re: (nfn15037)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would aluminum stick to the magnet? </TD></TR></TABLE>
very good question.. didnt think about it.. so what can this "grey grease" be?? when i touched it, didnt feel like it was metal flakes, but when i rubbed it onto a rag, it looked like grease...
very good question.. didnt think about it.. so what can this "grey grease" be?? when i touched it, didnt feel like it was metal flakes, but when i rubbed it onto a rag, it looked like grease...
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Re: (JDogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">excuse me... bits of bearing</TD></TR></TABLE>
bits of bearing?? so its gonna become a rod knock??
bits of bearing?? so its gonna become a rod knock??
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Re: (Jesse.)
Bits of bearing means that you need to remove the motor and disassemble it. Regardless of what it will cause, the motor needs to either come out now or come out when it blows up. The block and crank may still be salvagable now, but probably won't be once it kicks a rod through the block.
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Re: (nfn15037)
If it has adjustable cam gears make sure they are tight. I had 1 bolt on my edelbrocks get loose and it was noisy. Tightened it and all good. check for little things like that, maybe the timing belt is rubbing on the plastic cover or loose pullies.
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Re: (nfn15037)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bits of bearing means that you need to remove the motor and disassemble it. Regardless of what it will cause, the motor needs to either come out now or come out when it blows up. The block and crank may still be salvagable now, but probably won't be once it kicks a rod through the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ic, but from what Bseries have told me , its not a rod knock..? can this noise be somethign that will lead to a rod knock?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by revhardsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it has adjustable cam gears make sure they are tight. I had 1 bolt on my edelbrocks get loose and it was noisy. Tightened it and all good. check for little things like that, maybe the timing belt is rubbing on the plastic cover or loose pullies.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes it has adjustable cam gears, but they look like they r tight.. i dont have a plstic cover , and pullies seem fine =\
ic, but from what Bseries have told me , its not a rod knock..? can this noise be somethign that will lead to a rod knock?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by revhardsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it has adjustable cam gears make sure they are tight. I had 1 bolt on my edelbrocks get loose and it was noisy. Tightened it and all good. check for little things like that, maybe the timing belt is rubbing on the plastic cover or loose pullies.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes it has adjustable cam gears, but they look like they r tight.. i dont have a plstic cover , and pullies seem fine =\