Civicman86

Basically I have been blowing air into the coolant system and blwoing coolant out of the overflow. It did it once and never had a problem with it for months. Last week I went to the track and first pass it overheated again. So I figured it was time to take the head off. I snapped some pics of the gasket. It looks like the gasket around 1 and 2 are alot cleaner than 3 and 4, does that mean it was blowing by right there?

Note: I have never seen the car mix coolant/oil.

Pics start at #1 and move to number 4

D16y8











TIA

Adi Radoncic

I'm not seeing where it is blown at, maybe you should get some more pics when you take it off.. Its kinda dark...

2nd pic on the lower left side bottom looks like there might be some coolant seepage going on there but agian need a better pic.

Civicman86

yeah my camera sucks. You can definatly see coolant on the top of the gasket when you look at it from a level veiw (I dont think I can capture it on my shitty camera)

What I was talking about is looking in the 2nd and 3rd pics. Around the sleeve its all "cleaned off" i.e. you can see the silver metal. When you look at the last two cylinders its dark all the way around and cant visually see the medal under the gunk. (esepecially the number 2 cyl.)

What shoudl I look for to see if it is blown? I have heard sometimes you cant see it.

boostincoupe

Cylinder 2 is blown, that's EXACTLY how my Y8 HG looked when I blew it.

Did you see little black particles in your coolant when you opened the radiator cap while the car idled? Those are pieces of your HG floating around.

Civicman86

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cylinder 2 is blown, that's EXACTLY how my Y8 HG looked when I blew it.

Did you see little black particles in your coolant when you opened the radiator cap while the car idled? Those are pieces of your HG floating around. </TD></TR></TABLE>

sure did

boostincoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicman86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sure did </TD></TR></TABLE>

GET YOUR GOD DAMN HEAD RESURFACED, OR MOST LIKELY REBUILT AND HAVE ALL SEALS AND GUIDES REPLACED WHILE YOU'RE AT IT

I'm sure your head is warped, and your valves may be leaking so why not?

Also check the block deck surface with a straightedge and feeler gauges. I think .002" is the service limit.

OEM HG, copper spray till it's fully covered. Use the moly lube for the ARP studs, hand-tight on the block, then 20 ft./lbs, 40 ft./lbs. and finally 65 ft./lbs., then again to check.

Use the proper head torquing sequence and don't forget new coolant and oil!!!

Ls1 FD3s

lay down a 1/4" thick layer of JB weld on both sides slap it back together and torque it down to 155 ft lbs and it will be ALL gravy.

Civicman86

im getting a block built over the winter. I dunno if i will even put this one back together lol

seen4ever

needs some seafoam car is running rich too from look at pistons.

Civicman86

One more question. Im going to have the head checked for flatness but I would like to personally check my block too. Im not pulling the motor so I cant take it in. What should I use as a straight edge to check it? I know it wont be as precise as a machineshop but will give me a good idea if it is warped bad. I would think a ruler is pretty straight but not perfect?

boostincoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicman86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One more question. Im going to have the head checked for flatness but I would like to personally check my block too. Im not pulling the motor so I cant take it in. What should I use as a straight edge to check it? I know it wont be as precise as a machineshop but will give me a good idea if it is warped bad. I would think a ruler is pretty straight but not perfect?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I already stated what you should do above.

Buy a legit straightedge for $8 at the hardware store, and use feeler gauges diagonally and horizontally in multiple angles to check the deck flatness. You don't need to pull the block to do this, that's how I did it.