OVERHEATING! Dual Core EG Rad not Good Enough? A6 Turbo
06-08-2006, 12:13 PM
#1
I want a CRX tattoed on my butt
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OVERHEATING! Dual Core EG Rad not Good Enough? A6 Turbo
Im having some troubles with my car running way to dam hot. On a hot day itll run @ 230 while cruising around in town. The lowest Ive ever seen it go was 190 and that was on a cool night cruising @ 50
The car is an 88 crx si, d16a6 motor with some internals and a fairly sized turbo. My rad probably gets close to no air flow I would assume because of my large intercooler.
But Ive seen many guys running just the eg rads and id assume they had no troubles right?
I pulled my thermostat and have my fan running all the time and I cant keep the temps down. I also put a few washers under the hood to lift the back to vent it but nothing keeps this **** down
I was debating on trying to squeeze back in the stock crx full size rad (which i dont even know if I can do actually) or spend big bucks on a aluminum 1/2 size rad which still might not work
Wha do you suggest?
The car is an 88 crx si, d16a6 motor with some internals and a fairly sized turbo. My rad probably gets close to no air flow I would assume because of my large intercooler.
But Ive seen many guys running just the eg rads and id assume they had no troubles right?
I pulled my thermostat and have my fan running all the time and I cant keep the temps down. I also put a few washers under the hood to lift the back to vent it but nothing keeps this **** down
I was debating on trying to squeeze back in the stock crx full size rad (which i dont even know if I can do actually) or spend big bucks on a aluminum 1/2 size rad which still might not work
Wha do you suggest?
06-08-2006, 12:34 PM
#2
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Re: OVERHEATING! Dual Core EG Rad not Good Enough? A6 Turbo (PINKS)
im running a turbo gsr using a civic duel core with no problems at all. Try running straight water with redline waterwetter. Thats what i run. Theres no need for coolant in places like CA where it doesnt get that cold.
06-08-2006, 12:46 PM
#3
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Re: OVERHEATING! Dual Core EG Rad not Good Enough? A6 Turbo (xtremeazian)
I thought coolant was a better cooler though... wrong?
I dont know if 230 is to hot or not, but it seems pretty dam high
I dont know if 230 is to hot or not, but it seems pretty dam high
06-08-2006, 12:47 PM
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Re: OVERHEATING! Dual Core EG Rad not Good Enough? A6 Turbo (xtremeazian)
It can get cold in the higher elevations and some parts, deserts for one get damn cold in the night time. I'd suggest 70%water 30%coolant to preserve the anti-corrosion abilities.
06-08-2006, 12:50 PM
#5
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Re: OVERHEATING! Dual Core EG Rad not Good Enough? A6 Turbo (Flashmn)
I dont think corrosion will be a huge problem for me as Iam probably going to be pulling motors on a yearly/bi-yearly basis
Is that all coolant antifreeze is actually for? The colder nights and such?
Is that all coolant antifreeze is actually for? The colder nights and such?
06-08-2006, 01:49 PM
#6
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Yes coolant/antifreeze does exactly that, prevents the system from freezing.
Water is what provides the cooling properties.
Are you running 100% coolant? If so that's your problem.
Water is what provides the cooling properties.
Are you running 100% coolant? If so that's your problem.
06-08-2006, 02:50 PM
#7
Unceasing Measure
Re: (89-civic-DX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89-civic-DX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes coolant/antifreeze does exactly that, prevents the system from freezing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That and the other huge thing it does: lubricates the water pump. If you run 100% water your pump is guaranteed to go out faster. I'm not saying it's going to **** out on you in two months or anything, but it will definately decrease the life span of it significantly.
That and the other huge thing it does: lubricates the water pump. If you run 100% water your pump is guaranteed to go out faster. I'm not saying it's going to **** out on you in two months or anything, but it will definately decrease the life span of it significantly.
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06-08-2006, 05:08 PM
#8
I want a CRX tattoed on my butt
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Re: (Archidictus)
Im running a 50/50 mix right now
The car got to 230 when I was crusing at 60 today, im switching to a full size rad I think
The car got to 230 when I was crusing at 60 today, im switching to a full size rad I think
06-09-2006, 02:25 AM
#9
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Re: (PINKS)
Do I have my fan wired incorrectly?
Ir currently is pushing air through the rad and out the front of the car
Someone just told me it should be pulling air, why is that? Would this cause my problem
Ir currently is pushing air through the rad and out the front of the car
Someone just told me it should be pulling air, why is that? Would this cause my problem
06-09-2006, 03:04 AM
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Re: (PINKS)
reverse your fan NOW!~~~~~ 
i had the same issue, you are blowing hot air from engine bay into the rad. You want to pull the cooler OUTSIDE air INTO the rad!!!
i had the same issue, you are blowing hot air from engine bay into the rad. You want to pull the cooler OUTSIDE air INTO the rad!!!
06-09-2006, 04:09 AM
#12
Re: (wade)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcivic95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thermostat?</TD></TR></TABLE>
read
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I pulled my thermostat </TD></TR></TABLE>
as i stated in your other thread, you have the fan wired wrong. make a PULL fan not a PUSH fan.
read
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I pulled my thermostat </TD></TR></TABLE>
as i stated in your other thread, you have the fan wired wrong. make a PULL fan not a PUSH fan.
06-09-2006, 04:53 AM
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Re: (PINKS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do I have my fan wired incorrectly?
Ir currently is pushing air through the rad and out the front of the car
Someone just told me it should be pulling air, why is that? Would this cause my problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF?! Why would you want to be pushing hot air into the rad? and to make things even worst, you are trying to fight with the natural air flow that is coming into your car by trying to push air out in the opposite direction!
A little logic and common sense will tell you this is wrong..
Ir currently is pushing air through the rad and out the front of the car
Someone just told me it should be pulling air, why is that? Would this cause my problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF?! Why would you want to be pushing hot air into the rad? and to make things even worst, you are trying to fight with the natural air flow that is coming into your car by trying to push air out in the opposite direction!
A little logic and common sense will tell you this is wrong..
06-09-2006, 06:19 AM
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the rad cap coudl be bad. if it can't hold in pressure, then the liquid will boil faster thus causing heating sooner. anti-freeze does mroe than just prevent freezing, it also helps raize the boiling point of the liquid, this alos helps to keep the engine more cool. I run a 40/60 mix
06-09-2006, 10:36 AM
#15
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Re: (oscarmayer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the rad cap coudl be bad. if it can't hold in pressure, then the liquid will boil faster thus causing heating sooner. anti-freeze does mroe than just prevent freezing, it also helps raize the boiling point of the liquid, this alos helps to keep the engine more cool. I run a 40/60 mix</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude read the thread, the problem is clearly an improperly wired rad fan
dude read the thread, the problem is clearly an improperly wired rad fan
06-09-2006, 12:37 PM
#16
Re: (Macan00n)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the rad cap coudl be bad. if it can't hold in pressure, then the liquid will boil faster thus causing heating sooner. anti-freeze does mroe than just prevent freezing, it also helps raize the boiling point of the liquid, this alos helps to keep the engine more cool. I run a 40/60 mix</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4sd4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">read</TD></TR></TABLE>
He needs to wire the fan as a puller not a pusher. he basically pushing HOt air throught the radiator, not helping a single bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4sd4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">read</TD></TR></TABLE>
He needs to wire the fan as a puller not a pusher. he basically pushing HOt air throught the radiator, not helping a single bit.
06-09-2006, 01:22 PM
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i thought cooland not only lowered the freezing temperature but raised the boiling temperature as well.
anyone else hear that or did i make it up?
i run a 1/2 size single core radiator with a 3" front mount in the way with an A6 in a crx and havnt had any issues at all.
let us know the solution pinks...
anyone else hear that or did i make it up?
i run a 1/2 size single core radiator with a 3" front mount in the way with an A6 in a crx and havnt had any issues at all.
let us know the solution pinks...
06-09-2006, 08:47 PM
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Re: (oscarmayer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the rad cap coudl be bad. if it can't hold in pressure, then the liquid will boil faster thus causing heating sooner. anti-freeze does mroe than just prevent freezing, it also helps raize the boiling point of the liquid, this alos helps to keep the engine more cool. I run a 40/60 mix</TD></TR></TABLE>
It does not raise the boiling point of the liquid, it actually lowers the boiling point. Like stated above, its purpose is to prevent freezing and lube the waterpump. I actually did a test back in my old high school auto class, and coolant boiled at a lower temp than water.
It does not raise the boiling point of the liquid, it actually lowers the boiling point. Like stated above, its purpose is to prevent freezing and lube the waterpump. I actually did a test back in my old high school auto class, and coolant boiled at a lower temp than water.
06-10-2006, 04:41 AM
#20
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Re: (4sd4dr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4sd4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
He needs to wire the fan as a puller not a pusher. he basically pushing HOt air throught the radiator, not helping a single bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
could you post a pic or something i'm interested in doing this too, before i put my motor back in
He needs to wire the fan as a puller not a pusher. he basically pushing HOt air throught the radiator, not helping a single bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
could you post a pic or something i'm interested in doing this too, before i put my motor back in
06-10-2006, 04:48 AM
#21
Re: (TURBODC4TEG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TURBODC4TEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
could you post a pic or something i'm interested in doing this too, before i put my motor back in</TD></TR></TABLE>
will you be running a slim fan? or OE? OE fans are already pull fans. if you are using a slim fan (FAL or SPAL) then youll need to just wire it until you feel it pulling air into the bay. not really that hard.
could you post a pic or something i'm interested in doing this too, before i put my motor back in</TD></TR></TABLE>
will you be running a slim fan? or OE? OE fans are already pull fans. if you are using a slim fan (FAL or SPAL) then youll need to just wire it until you feel it pulling air into the bay. not really that hard.
06-10-2006, 04:56 AM
#22
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Re: (xtremeazian)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xtremeazian »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It does not raise the boiling point of the liquid, it actually lowers the boiling point. Like stated above, its purpose is to prevent freezing and lube the waterpump. I actually did a test back in my old high school auto class, and coolant boiled at a lower temp than water.</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF? Then why the hell does it say on the bottle of the coolant mixture that it RAISES the boiling tempurature? Not just of one kind/brand either, every fricken one they sell in the shops?
It does not raise the boiling point of the liquid, it actually lowers the boiling point. Like stated above, its purpose is to prevent freezing and lube the waterpump. I actually did a test back in my old high school auto class, and coolant boiled at a lower temp than water.</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF? Then why the hell does it say on the bottle of the coolant mixture that it RAISES the boiling tempurature? Not just of one kind/brand either, every fricken one they sell in the shops?
06-10-2006, 05:55 PM
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Re: (Sifu)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sifu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
WTF? Then why the hell does it say on the bottle of the coolant mixture that it RAISES the boiling tempurature? Not just of one kind/brand either, every fricken one they sell in the shops?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the labels said that water had a higher boiling temp, then there coolant woudlnt sell. haha. I dont know, but if you want, go get a thermometer, and go boil coolant and then boil water.
WTF? Then why the hell does it say on the bottle of the coolant mixture that it RAISES the boiling tempurature? Not just of one kind/brand either, every fricken one they sell in the shops?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the labels said that water had a higher boiling temp, then there coolant woudlnt sell. haha. I dont know, but if you want, go get a thermometer, and go boil coolant and then boil water.