W O T

Heres the measurements I got, drew up my own crank lol, I know Im a great artist

Right side of the pic is the side of the crank on the belt side





Im just going to give this to the guy thats gonna order my lower end rebuild kit and he should be good with it correct?

Need a little help here

I now no what sizes I need for my mains (yellow, green, brown, green, green)

[b] I just need connecting rod bearing help [/b[


Modified by W O T at 8:52 PM 2/11/2005

legendboy

You need to plastigauge the mains and rods to be accurate.

servion

What did you use to get these measurements? Did you just mic the crank?

civicross

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to plastigauge the mains and rods to be accurate. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Micrometers are more accurate than plastigage.

legendboy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicross &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Micrometers are more accurate than plastigage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so explain how he is going to get accurate clearance measurements by not also plastigauging the bottom end

W O T

I used a micrometer and measured the journals...

THen AFTER I order hte bearings and there here, then I check to make sure I got the right bearings with plastigauge right...?

Or am I missing something?

I got these mics from work and they got to be back tomorrow morning asap before bossy shows up lol

legendboy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used a micrometer and measured the journals...

THen AFTER I order hte bearings and there here, then I check to make sure I got the right bearings with plastigauge right...?

Or am I missing something?

I got these mics from work and they got to be back tomorrow morning asap before bossy shows up lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

that may work out ok for u but it could end up being pretty expensive after having to order another complete set of honda bearings...

W O T

why would I have to order another set? If I give them these PRECISE crank measurements, shouldnt he know what colour bearings I need...

What other way is there to do it?

legendboy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would I have to order another set? If I give them these PRECISE crank measurements, shouldnt he know what colour bearings I need...

What other way is there to do it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes. mic the crank, use a dial bore gauge on the mains, do some math, then mic and plastigauge with your old bearings. do some more math. then your 100% 1st try.

W O T

Oh, heres the stamps codes on the block

BCCBB

And the ones on the crank

B3 B3 B3 C2

legendboy

Basically by using a (good quality) micrometer to measure the original bearings, then plastigauging with the old bearings you can tell the exact clearances for your new bearings down to a tenth or whatever. This is the only way i know how to do it without having an align hone done on your rods and mains (if you don't have a good dial bore gauge) and simply blueprinting the crank or buying a bunch of new bearings.

W O T

I dont have any original bearings, bought a bare block and eagle rods....

W O T

W O T

adictionbass

Wish i could help you dude... free bump
BTW, ive been meaning to ask you this for a long time, who is the girl in ur avatar?

W O T

She was a camping friend Id only see every year while camping with families, I decided to bring it to another level and go out with here, I got into a fight infront of her and now she wont even speak to me, should have just stayed friends

I made a thread about her/our breakup and the fight n such and it turned into a like 13 page thread in GDD

aka BUMP

Race Egr

couldnt u torque the main caps down with the bearing installed use a bore gaugel and mesuare the bore of the main cap with bearing in it and then mic the crank. Then do the same for the rods instead of using plastique

ludesleep

If you cant do this you need to take it to a machine shop and have them do it. If the housing bores are not correct, the rest of the rebuild will be useless. The bearings have to have a certain amount of crush no matter what application. Your crankshaft end play plays a major roll too. You want no more than .004-.006 of crankshaft end play. Call a local machine shop and find out what clearances you need to run they should help. Unless this crank has been turned down you should be ok. I do suggest that you use a dial bore gage tho...plastigage is a joke.

Race Egr

ludesleep so my method would be correct right just measure at a few diffrent points though to make sure its not out of round correct

W O T

ADDED ANOTHER PIC AT THE TOP

I know the sizes I need for my mains, now I need help with the rod journals

Race Egr

do u have a bore gauge?

ludesleep

Yes you can do it like that but you need to mic the crank three times and take the average number of the three. But my main concern for him is to check to see if its in need of align hone. Check the taper in the caps. Also if he checks it with the bearings in be carefull not to score the bearings with the gage.

Bobby Snyder

Race Egr

bye taper do u mean out of round?

W O T

same thing, yes

ludesleep

Taper=Main bore being bigger from front to back from the thrust side.