TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's really more of a "GAIN" feature like other electronic boost controllers, and it can work for smaller turbochargers that are about 58lbs/min or below. But something as large as a GT35R on a B16, even with that feature, don't expect the world. The exhaust pulse output of the B16, due to it's short stroke & high rpm range, just isn't enough for the quick spool feature to make that much of a change.. Especially with a turbocharger that large. You're right in that with what he currently possesses, tuning the "quick spool" feature is his best option available, but in the grand scheme of what I believe he's trying to accomplish, don't expect a whole lot just from that feature. There's just not enough exhaust pulse energy coming from the engine for the wastegate to be able make that feature work to a big advantage with a GT3582R

Compared to a Victor X? No. I don't think you'll see any difference. Against a Skunk2 Pro Manifold or something similar to a P73 ITR Intake manifold, sure.. (About 15 peak HP compared to those according to some other testimony and even the Skunk2-provided video about the Ultrastreet on their site), but no real change in torque curve or anything like that.

Balor_Gr

I was about to say you will not see more than 15-20hp from victor X to S2 but i didnt want to discourage him.
GT3582 TO GTX "3576"
Shodan might chime in on the turbo conversion.Or get real cams.
Other than that get water/meth injection and use aggresive boost by rpm.

fotis2000

Balor_Gr

Yes. Their big "+" is the mid range.

LightningTeg

If you want midrange out of the intake you need to maximize runner length.

fotis2000

Chance EG

Agreed that either GSC T1 or Kelford 176-C would be a better option than Pro1's for midrange.

Balor_Gr

Im very sure something is very wrong here
Never ask the big names what to buy on ANYTHING.
Id still do either turbo conversion with smaller billet wheel or water meth injection for aggesive boost by rpm with lower timing and leaner afr before cams.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I approve of this course of action. Smaller turbo, w/ meth-water

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Which neither the ultra street nor the Victor X have

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

What are the plans with this car? Are you concerned with mid range power for daily use and want more response as you drive around town, is this going to be used for drag racing?

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

What motor was that test done on?

fotis2000

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Interesting, for road racing you would want more low end torque and a turbo capable of spooling pretty quick rather than midrange of 7000-8000 and top end power. The setup you are putting together is more of a drag racing setup and not road racing. Now 7000-8000 RPMS really isn't midrange but closer to top end power especially if you are only revving up to 9500. I mean if you were only really using this for drag racing a Pro1 and Victor X is a pretty good combo and would give you a really good peak from 7000-10000 RPMS.

fotis2000

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yes. That's what I thought this setup was designed for on purpose. You put together a drag car setup, not a road course one. You've got a LOT to change out if you plan to do that.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Yep.

fotis2000

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Everything. And I mean almost everything must be changed.
-Turbocharger - No larger than 51lbs/min (GTX2867R, Banshee, Hunter, or GTX3067R at the largest). A GT35R is a complete waste of time for what you're trying to achieve here. No camshaft or electronic setting will save this system. Sorry.
-Intake manifold - Skunk2 Pro 1, Edlebrock Performer X, or even a good Type R. (For God's Sake NO Victor X, or Ultra Street)
-Camshaft - Kelford 176-T, GSC T1, or even a nice TypeR or Tuner 1
-If possible B18C1 or something with larger stroke if you can.

I hope you don't have some huge runner exhaust manifold like a Kooks "Ramhorn" or Top-Mount manifold, because that has to go to.


Your entire current setup is geared towards drag racing, and drag racing only. There's no dual purpose for what you have here with this B16.

The Boersma Time Attack EM1 civic is a Perfect example of a Road Race setup

The perfect torque curve. Flat as a table, 250ft-lbs from 4000rpms to 9000rpms. That can't be beat . A B16 would not make as much overall torque, but with lighter tare weight of the car, it would still be close.
B18C1 9.6-9.8:1 CR
B18C5 Head / ITR Cams
Skunk2 Pro Intake Manifold
Short runner tubular log exhaust manifold
CSF Full sized Radiator
Garrett GTX2867R Turbo @ 20 PSI
Custom Backdoor Garrett FMIC 3" DP / 3" Exhaust
HKS SSQV Chipped OBD-I
420.6 WHP & 256.8 WTQ ---> (With a Banshee, TR3030R, or GTX3071R, you could get 490-500whp with 272WTQ in a B18C1, about 240WTQ in a B16, but for a shorter period of time)



Boersma B18C1 Civic Lap Attack v.1

fotis2000

extremeracer

I think there is some "lost in translation" happening here . I think the OP means "fast street car" or roll racing on the street rather than "Road Racing". In the USA, "road racing" means circuit track (Laguna Seca, Buttonwillow, Circuit of Americas etc.) while "street racing" or "roll racing" means a high horsepower street car racing others on the street. @TheShodan was suggesting a setup based on an understanding of "road racing" which implies a road course (outside of the USA we refer to road course as "track", whilst in the USA "track" usually refers to drag strip).

SO....if your purpose of this car is street racing and you looking for more mid-range power so the car accelerates faster earlier in the powerband then the simplest solutions are A) change the turbo to GTX3576 Gen 2 specs or B) Build a B18B or B18C bottom end to gain extra capacity and therefore more mid-range torque.

A B16 and GT3582 combination is always going to be gutless down low. Could cams with larger primary lobes like the Kelford's and GSC's help - yes but they aren't going to cure the fact that your powerband only starts at 6000rpm+ with your engine size and turbo combination - due to you not having boost and therefore corresponding airflow before that rpm point.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Those are good points extremeracer. Excellent referencing of terminology. We must come to a common definition of the OP's purpose here, and the correct understanding of the definitions is key...

Thanks for pointing that out. OP, the ball is in your court; not just numbers regarding acceleration, or dyno charts or any of this, but actual purpose of the car. Use, events (if any), etc.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that's why I was asking what the purpose of the car was and he said road racing and some drag racing but he was looking at getting better power starting at 7k which seemed weird for a road race car. However if he was looking for power from 7 to 10k Victor X and Pro 1's would give him that if he meant he is looking for a roll race/drag race car. For roll racing and drag racing you don't need to worry about power under 7k because you technically should never fall below 7k between shifts when roll racing/drag racing.

I did 0 to 212km in 5.9 seconds with the Victor X, Pro 1's and 74mm throttle body and made great power from 6,500 to 10,500RPM's

fotis2000

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Ah ... Roll Racing/ Texas Mile / Highway mayhem is a completely different story. You're not going to get much more torque further down low anyway, as it would be irrelevant. So, AZ_CIVIC has that correct. Your setup would be setup more like a drag racer, but your gearing would be slightly longer in your transmission to stay on the highway. It's brave for a B16, but it could still work.

Man, that was so confusing. It's amazing what a little terminology cleanup can do for helping up. Wow.